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Discussion Starter #1
Alright, here's the story...

Dad recently upgraded from a Gleaner N6 to a used 2188. The 2188 was used in edible beans and corn and we will be using it for wheat only. We have pulled the rotor out in order to repair some cracks and get some dirt out of it.

Our big question is should we do anything about the specialty rotor? Will it work as is with the short bars, or should we modify it for wheat while it's out? What about the Gordon bars, or any other mods?

There is still some life left in the current bars, but now that it's out it would be a great time to work on it...
 

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Put an afx style front end on it if you harvest in tough conditions. It also helps some in dry conditions but really shines under tough conditions. I prefer the stewert steel accelerator but there are several different brands.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the info!

A couple more questions - Can you run just a few gordon bars, like half and half or some other pattern? What about the vane angles? I see they are all adjustable, but they are all right in the middle... On the gleaner we changed the helicals to get the threshed crop out faster.
 

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It all depends on your crop and harvest conditions to where you set your vanes. I would suggest to have them as fast as possible this will allow you greater capacity.The only time I would slow them down is if you were stripping a crop which you needed to keep in the rotor longer eg. hyper clover seed etc.
As for your rasp bar set up almost any configuration will work for you in wheat, Just make sure that the rotor is perfectly balanced.
The most important part on a AFX rotor is the transition vane, Would pay to check that it is in good condition.
 

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This flight kit is the most bang for the buck. http://www.kilemfg.com/

Check out the other parts on the page like transition plates and rasp bars to see some new items just out.

You can run any combination of gorden bars and stock bars you wish. For the specialty rotor, there are 2 different gorden bars. Thresh bars for the standoff spacings on the front over the concaves, and seperator bars for over the grates. Before you order, make sure you have an idea where you want to place them so you can order the proper amount of each. Each gorden removes 2 stock bars, so keep that in mind when looking at your rotor to determine what pattern you wish.

Kile has another new bar coming out in a few weeks. It will still use only one standoff, but will be even larger than the ones he currently sells with either the forward or reverse rasp angles on them.

Does your rotor have the drive bushing support plate on the drive hub? Part #87363446 It is not allways needed, but it comes stock on all new rotors. I dont think it was available for the 2188 yet in that production time. May as well put new bushings in or new hub and install the support plate while the rotor is out.

If it were my machine, I would install new transition cone vanes and use the extenda wear vanes. You can allways field install the cage vanes, but transition cone vanes you cant.
 

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I would put an AFX front end on it. I went with the one from Lowen, when you have to replace the blades you can get them from Lowen or the ones from Case will bolt right up. I would would say the Gordon bars are a must. We have a 2188 and two 2388's all three have a full set of Gordon bars. A lot better deal to do it while the rotor is out!
 
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