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Discussion Starter #1
hello all,
Issues with a 2188 seperator drive slowing down.
Any recommendations will be great!
Ok....customer replaced the seperator engage solenoid than engine oil pressure switch. No difference,
Assumed the clutches in the seperator leg to be worn.
Replaced the clutch packs. Refitted than went well for 1 full day.
Problem has come back.
Auto sparky tested all wiring coming from A post. Even ran a new wire from the back of the A post to the solinoid. Wiring cannot be faulted.
Swapped the solinoid cartridge on the unloader valve to the seperator drive. No difference... swapped the valve block ontop of the Pto and the accumulator with another working machine... no fix.
Fitted guages and found low oil pressure in system.( worn or leaking orings) Removed the leg once again and replaced all orings. Inspected clutch packs. OK.
Fitted back to machine replacing the filter twice after running the machine. For a very short period.
Separator drives, pressures fine.
Work in paddock for 15mins and starts slowing down again.
Electrics working fine
Remove leg once again and cannot fault the workmanship...
Any help will be appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Its just the spring belt tensioner not the hydraulic arm setup as the newer 2300s use.
Belt is tight
 

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hello all,
Issues with a 2188 seperator drive slowing down.
Any recommendations will be great!
Ok....customer replaced the seperator engage solenoid than engine oil pressure switch. No difference,
Assumed the clutches in the seperator leg to be worn.
Replaced the clutch packs. Refitted than went well for 1 full day.
Problem has come back.
Auto sparky tested all wiring coming from A post. Even ran a new wire from the back of the A post to the solinoid. Wiring cannot be faulted.
Swapped the solinoid cartridge on the unloader valve to the seperator drive. No difference... swapped the valve block ontop of the Pto and the accumulator with another working machine... no fix.
Fitted guages and found low oil pressure in system.( worn or leaking orings) Removed the leg once again and replaced all orings. Inspected clutch packs. OK.
Fitted back to machine replacing the filter twice after running the machine. For a very short period.
Separator drives, pressures fine.
Work in paddock for 15mins and starts slowing down again.
Electrics working fine
Remove leg once again and cannot fault the workmanship...
Any help will be appreciated
On ours, something happened the little electric drive motor that opens and closes the speed pulley. The motor would slowly come unscrewed slowing the separator down.
 

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You still need to set the drive belt on it, ask me how I know. you run your cylinder speed either all the slow or all the way fast then the book will have a measurement for the pulley sheave, if it isn't correct you then adjust the tension on the belt while rotating the cylinder. I finished a season with a problem like your talking about, the belt just needed adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ronf is this the seperator belt you are talking or the rotor belt setting?
 

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The variable speed rotor belt, it will slip and cause the rotor to slow down, you move the rotor gear box to the left to tighten it, mine was slipping and caused the same problem you describe.
 

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The variable speed rotor belt, it will slip and cause the rotor to slow down, you move the rotor gear box to the left to tighten it, mine was slipping and caused the same problem you describe.
Yes If tightening rotor belt to spec. doesn't help put a new rotor belt on. If they ever slip (like it sounds yours is ) they get smooth on the sides and no amount of adjusting will help. I ran these machines for almost 20 years , am about 90 % sure this will cure your problem
 

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Check the torque assembly on the driven sheave pulley, the one with the two cam rollers that you grease every day. The rollers probably have flat spots on them and need replacing. Also there is an compressed spring inside this assembly which keeps pressure on the sheaves that is probably weakened, replace it with a heavy duty one. There is a kit from case which was cheaper than buying everything seperately.
Ours got so worn out that we would chew a rotor belt in a day. Dealer was quite happy selling new belts until I noticed the square rollers
 

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In what you describe as the leg there are 2 teflon rings on the end of the distributor hub for the clutch pack and piston. It is highly recommended that these be replaced with steel sealing rings as the teflon ones tend to flatten out and bypass oil going to the clutch piston when hot.

There is also a tiny pump and relief valve in there that could be worn however more often then not the teflon sealing rings are at fault.

You would have to do a running pressure test on the piston pressure as the oil heats up as the machine is running to see if the piston is losing pressure while hot under load.
 
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