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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just recently pulled the top and bottom seives, both rails, shaker pan and finger bar out. I pulled all of this to put in a new shaker pan and was looking at the bushings on each side of the combine. The bushings don't appear to have a lot of wear on them or cracks. How much wear is to much wear on them? My old shaker pan and finger board were cracked so I replaced them, where might I check for other flaws? The rails and sieves have no cracks, but I need the new door that has the spring loaded pins that sit between the spinners and sieves.
 

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CHANGE THOSE SHAKER BUSHINGS. My brother and I bought a 2188 last fall right before harvest and we never thought of changing the shaker bushings and the big main one on the right behind the clean grain elevator went out and wreck the right rail and the top sieve. If you put all in new now, you should be good to go for 3 years or 300 hours is what I have been told. It's costed me a little over 600 for then to press new ones in and the old ones out, but I had all the arms off and took it to them. A 600 dollar maintenance jobs beats a 2000 dollar sieve! Hope this helps.
 

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I think there is actually 22 in all. Yep, they make a kit with all the bushings and then if you want to do it yourself you will need to buy the kit for pressing the bushings out and then the new ones in. If you take all your arms to your dealership, they should be able to do it. The kit I bought was $289 and then the labor was $350. So for around $650 you're good to go. The right main shaker arm is a pain to get off. Good luck!
 

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Here's an old thread I made with some pictures of a rebush. I have since changed a few things like removing the plate stiffener as I found it to make the rail frame work too stiff when the cross shaft has so much slop in its engineering. There are other machine changes I have made since also, but the rebush is about the same. I'll be doing a rebush on our second 1680 we just purchased, before next season and hope to take more pics and some video. But that wont help you now.

From what I see, you are the type that wants to learn and know how things work. So if you press your own, I would buy the die kit from CIH. Part #B96214 in this catalog. I have one and after doing a rebush without it, it is an amazing tool set. I wont do another rebush without it. Not only for speed, but to reduce the risk of new bushing damage, which will require purchasing another new bushing.

A rebush is really only half of the needed R&R work to make your combine reliable. The shaker cross shaft and cams need replaced as well, but many see the price of the new shaft and choose not to change it. This is a mistake. But the shaft is nothing special and you might see if you can buy from A&I dealers or have one made.
IMO.
 

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doorknob has it nailed on how to change the shaker bushings. Another main factor in shaker system failure are the pins and needle bearings in kit part# B95349 and B95352, if you are religous in changing them you will reduce your failure rate considerably. We have proven this on machines that work the wheat run. They were always working on the shaker system but started to change the pins and bearings on a yearly basis and shaker trouble virtually went away.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'm glad you threw that up there Phillphy. Last year I got through the season after replacing those bolts and a couple others that go through the shaker bushings. Nothing crashed, while combining after that so this summer I wanted to take her all the way down that way there's. no surprises this fall. New bushings, new needle bearings, new cross auger bearings, new shaker pan and finger bar. Sieve, chaffer, and rails all look good, but still looking for a good used tailgate between the spinners and seive.
 
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