Just starting to go over some things that need to be addressed with one of my combines before harvest season and as I figured out late last fall I'm in need of a new shaker pan, finger bar, and all the fingers. It looks as if the best way to replace all this is to remove the seive and chaffer. My pan is all cracked and the finger bar and fingers came loose during last falls harvest and came right out the back, luckily the chaffer and spinners on the back weren't damaged. I had a couple bushings that went out on the shaker arms that caused most of this. They were replaced but know its time to go through it with a fine tooth comb. Are there any after market or updated shaker pans that are better than OEM and how hard of a job is it?
2188 shaker pan and finger bar
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Yes remove sieve and chaffer , undo all the bolts in the shaker bearings and remove the bolts(noting where all the washers go) You then drag the rails that hold the seives and the shaker pan out the back.
It is a tedious job but not too hard. When you changed the bearings I guess you replaced all of them.
Here in Australia for less common parts you have to go OEM. We were in a hurry when ours cracked so we welded it up. Wouldn't recommend that though as it is easy to warp it as you weld
It is a tedious job but not too hard. When you changed the bearings I guess you replaced all of them.
Here in Australia for less common parts you have to go OEM. We were in a hurry when ours cracked so we welded it up. Wouldn't recommend that though as it is easy to warp it as you weld
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I can get you A and I. Shaker pan itself is $440. Both side frames if you need them are $340 apiece.
They have to come truck freight to you though. You will have to pay freight. It would come from Iowa so I cant believe it would be too much.
Not sure how far you are from Seymour, Mo but they have one in stock and you can pick it up there.
They have to come truck freight to you though. You will have to pay freight. It would come from Iowa so I cant believe it would be too much.
Not sure how far you are from Seymour, Mo but they have one in stock and you can pick it up there.
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There is a special tool to align the shaker shaft to the combine. It also centers the stroke of the arms when you take them apart and retighten. It is very critical that you are in mid stroke when you tighten everything up. I purchased this tool and have used it on multiple machines. I talked to an expert at case and he said that 90% of the case combines out there, the shaker shaft is out of alignment and it causes premature failure. My case dealer told me "that they don't have the tool and cant see the purpose of it. IT is just common to replace bushings every 2 years". We have 3 1688 and I put the tool on all 3 and all of them were off about 1/4" from center. We were having bushings go out all the time and now we haven't lost one since.
This guy was very helpful in figuring it all out. You might be able to borrow the tool from your Case dealer if they have it. I forked out the $2300 for it b/c I work on a lot of Case combines. It has already payed for itself. Viewing a thread - CIH combine shaker system R&R. (with some pictures)
This guy was very helpful in figuring it all out. You might be able to borrow the tool from your Case dealer if they have it. I forked out the $2300 for it b/c I work on a lot of Case combines. It has already payed for itself. Viewing a thread - CIH combine shaker system R&R. (with some pictures)
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We just had everything out of the back of the 2388 yesterday to replace a chaffer sieve rail that broke completely in two. We got the sieve rails out without removing the shoe sieve, but then they wouldn't go back in. Taking the shoe out first would have made things a lot easier. When you get it opened up it's a good time to look at anything else in that area that might need attention.
Front hex shaft can twist, I would pull it, since your in that deep, keep track of washers to shim shoe, YES you need the tool to alighn shoe, aftermarket sieves with plastic louvers are much lighter, thus taking some load off the shoe, work well, when machine is not in use, shoe should be midstroke to take load of shoe bushings, Scott.
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That's debatable and can turn heated at times. Many items are good enough to make the savings worth the risk. But A&I aint what it used to be. They take great quality and well known brands, cheap them out and still sell under the original name in attempts to fool the customer into believing they are still getting the quality the original brand and manufacturer had put out. But,..........they still make available a lot of items the factory does not, so.............
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IMO, once the grain pan cracks out, you are in a position that requires the entire shaker system be taken apart and rebuilt. All the way to the large pulley that drives it.
This means taking the cross shaft out and replacing it. It is an expensive piece that you might take your old one to a machinist and see what they say about making you one. It is a simple shaft, with simple machining. Removal of it requires that you slip all the conveyor auger gears off of it. IMO, when you do this, may as well replace the upper auger support bearings as well.
That octagon shaft has a center bearing. When you install the new shaft, or if you leave the old one in, loosen the bolts that hold the bearing support. When the machine was made, things were tightened at the factory in the manufacturing jig position. Since then the combine has settled a bit and the super structure has made some minor shifts. 9 times out of 10, if you were to pull the shaft without loosening any of the three bearings, once you got it out of one bearing, it would droop and not align with the bearing center anymore.
When you rebush the shaker, I prefer to press the new bushings into a position that requires the least shims I can get away with. But then I have a simple press right next to the shop and the case bushing die set to make this easy to do.
Also I have found over the years that replacing the bushing bolts with high quality bolts and making sure the bolt shoulder goes all the way thru each support component keeps things tighter. If the shoulder goes thru one side and the bushing, but threads are all that supports the opposite end of the bushing, it works loose and flexes over time.
This means taking the cross shaft out and replacing it. It is an expensive piece that you might take your old one to a machinist and see what they say about making you one. It is a simple shaft, with simple machining. Removal of it requires that you slip all the conveyor auger gears off of it. IMO, when you do this, may as well replace the upper auger support bearings as well.
That octagon shaft has a center bearing. When you install the new shaft, or if you leave the old one in, loosen the bolts that hold the bearing support. When the machine was made, things were tightened at the factory in the manufacturing jig position. Since then the combine has settled a bit and the super structure has made some minor shifts. 9 times out of 10, if you were to pull the shaft without loosening any of the three bearings, once you got it out of one bearing, it would droop and not align with the bearing center anymore.
When you rebush the shaker, I prefer to press the new bushings into a position that requires the least shims I can get away with. But then I have a simple press right next to the shop and the case bushing die set to make this easy to do.
Also I have found over the years that replacing the bushing bolts with high quality bolts and making sure the bolt shoulder goes all the way thru each support component keeps things tighter. If the shoulder goes thru one side and the bushing, but threads are all that supports the opposite end of the bushing, it works loose and flexes over time.
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