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Hello all,
I have a 2388 combine that just went kaput on me. As I was engaging the separator, there was a blip on my column cluster and my engine rpm lcd readout went straight to zero and my engine is still running. All electrical anything does nothing. All hydraulics won't work due to the solenoids not getting power. Any suggestions on what is going on. Thought I'd pick the brains of this forum before I started calling around tomorrow. Thanks!

Neal
 

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So nothing working at all? Ights, cab fan, unload auger swing out, header raise/lower, radio, everything dead.

I would look at main power going into cab. On ours there is a big plug on right side of cab with 20 or more wires, one of which is a main power wire. That connection between the pin and socket burnt up and shut the combine down dead in the field. It was still new to us so got the dealer tech too look at it and he found the burnt connection. Just ran the wire out of the plug and butt spliced to the wire going into the cab. Says it was not uncommon.
 

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The connector at the battery still good? Stop by a neighbor to say hi once and he had a combine all torn apart trying to figure out this problem. I looked at the battery to find a wire broken that powers all that stuff.
 

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On the bright side, something like this will be easier to diagnose than an intermittent problem or just a few things acting up here and there. Like kenmb said, it will be a main power source that feeds everything, even check the batteries and main wires and fuses if it has them. If you have help, get them to sit in the seat and you start wiggling wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have power, starts up fine and idles and can run it full RPM. No hydraulics to raise or lower the header, no hydrostat. The parking brake light is on when I don't have it on. The engine RPM readout just stays at zero and when I try to engage the separator again, it says to increase engine rpm. Have power to air conditioner, fan and windshield wiper. Did a hard reset by taking the batter cables off and then putting them back on once everything was de-energized. It's puzzling as it was running just fine one moment and now this. Thanks for the responses. It is appreciated.
 

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I have power, starts up fine and idles and can run it full RPM. No hydraulics to raise or lower the header, no hydrostat. The parking brake light is on when I don't have it on. The engine RPM readout just stays at zero and when I try to engage the separator again, it says to increase engine rpm. Have power to air conditioner, fan and windshield wiper. Did a hard reset by taking the batter cables off and then putting them back on once everything was de-energized. It's puzzling as it was running just fine one moment and now this. Thanks for the responses. It is appreciated.
Engine oil pressure switch is where I would look,that pressure switch closes the ground for the engine oil pressure relay which powers several different circuits on the machine.
 

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So your rpm says 0, it is not a blank screen. There is a tach sensor on the PTO unit around the 5 o'clock position. Had that fail and it locked out a few functions including the header raise lower. Don't think it set the park brake though. Without that sensor functioning you can't engage thresher and a few other things.
 

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Engine oil pressure sensor. Had one do weird things on mine. Replaced with new sensor problems went away. Tech said cause of a lot of electrical issues. Worth a look.
 

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Thanks, now that I think about it, there was an odd noise around the the PTO housing, like a couple of washers trying to spin and making a noise, but this was intermittent and then went away four or five days ago and never thought much about it. That may be a good place to start. I'll also check out the oil pressure sensor as well.
 

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Look at the PTO housing. If it was the oil pressure unit you would have a normal functioning tach display. I think our 2388 showed three dashes instead of 0 rpm when the tach sensor failed. Your sensor may be ok but have bigger issues inside the PTO but thats where you should look.

If you want to check your oil pressure sensor pull the tray out from under the buddy seat and look at the cab pressuring fan. With only key on it won't run, start engine and when oil pressure builds the fan will start.
 

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Turned out the three bolts that attach the hydraulic pump to the hub of the pto were missing/sheared off. These are the bolts you loosen to replace the double belt. Pulled the hydraulic pump and lowered it and was able to drill and get an easy out to the one bolt that sheared off. Got up and running yesterday. Glad my only cost was three bolts and washers and my son's time. Put loc-tight on the bolts and were good to go. Thanks for all the input. Really enjoy this forum.
 

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Turned out the three bolts that attach the hydraulic pump to the hub of the pto were missing/sheared off. These are the bolts you loosen to replace the double belt. Pulled the hydraulic pump and lowered it and was able to drill and get an easy out to the one bolt that sheared off. Got up and running yesterday. Glad my only cost was three bolts and washers and my son's time. Put loc-tight on the bolts and were good to go. Thanks for all the input. Really enjoy this forum.

I'm more amazed you got an Easy Out to work!!
 

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Hello all,
I have a 2388 combine that just went kaput on me. As I was engaging the separator, there was a blip on my column cluster and my engine rpm lcd readout went straight to zero and my engine is still running. All electrical anything does nothing. All hydraulics won't work due to the solenoids not getting power. Any suggestions on what is going on. Thought I'd pick the brains of this forum before I started calling around tomorrow. Thanks!

Neal
Short on time so I have not read through this thread. You must have a rpm reading on the display for it to work, had this happen twice last year, once cause a pile of grease got hung up on top of the sensor, another time cause a ground wire broke somewhere by the clean grain elevator if I remember right

Good luck! Maybe your up and rolling already
 

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Order yourself a schematic from your dealer. I think this one cost around $150, you don't need to order the shop service manual to get just the electrical schematics. This one folds out to around 36 x 24" and is printed on both sides. Well worth the money. Even makes clear what that mysterious oil pressure switch actually influences.
 

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