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Discussion Starter #1
We have a pair of 2388's (2000 models) with specialty rotors with the same hrs (1000) and we are the original owners. One has great power, always has, the other is a dog and always has been. The combines are identical and no modifications have been made to either (no chips or turning up the fuel pump, etc). They are the same as the day we got them from the factory. Both have high idle around 2500rpm. What are some of the reasons for the lack of power in the one? Could it be a turbo problem. Something to do with the wastegate? We actually got the dealer to replace the fuel pump on it, but it made no difference. Should I try to chip the unit? If I chip it what is a good chip to get and what are the potential consequences of installing one of these? If I install a chip, is there anything else I have to do to accommodate the added power so nothing blows up on me? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 

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For starters you cannot put a chip on a 2000 model machine as they are mechanically governed. Checking the injectors would be one thing I would do. Another thing you could do is play with the aneroid on the pump. It will make the engine hang on longer before it dies rather than give you more hp. Your dealer should be able to help you out on this. Good luck.
 

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hi

May want to run the machine with a boost gauge should be able to get up to 35 to 38 psi,under full load if not may want to plug the T fitting that the turbo waste gate hose connects to.
make sure the waste gate is held all the way shut.
Check all the aftercooler hoses and make sure no loose clamps or ripped hoses.
Also may want to pressure test the after cooler should hold at least 40 psi.

Amax
 

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this is what i did to mine and ran like a champ, thir is two torqu screws on the side of the fuel pump, remove them so you can get inside and adjust the lenght of the plunger, their is a larger jam nut you loosen and then back out the pluger two full turns, tighten the locking nut, then replace cap

now after that i took small rubber hose off end of wastegate and cap off with a bolt or something, just let the small hose sit there

i have done this mod to more than a few 23 with no problems, you will see your boost go around the 30psi, compared to the stock 20lbs they come with, from what i could see, it would add about 100hp, now you will be putting more wear on the rotor belt, but other than that it will impress you
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So the chip is out of the question for this unit then. I just played around with plugging that wastegate hose. On the side of the wastegate that points toward the front of the combine there was a rubber hose coming off the wastegate (which was about 2''-3''). This rubber tube had 2 clamps on it. From there, there was a small metal tube (painted red) that ran across the top of the engine and did some zigging and zagging before finally going into the engine itself. I loosened the clamp on the rubber hose and pulled the metal tube out, then put a small bolt back into the rubber hose to block it and clamped it tight. I left the metal tube just off to the side. Is this the correct procedure for fixing the wastegate problem? It looks like if I wanted to do any work to the wastegate itself I'd have to take off the air cleaner and metal shrouding that lies overtop of the turbo and the exhaust tube comes out of. It is too wet to try for a few days, but I did run it up a steep hill with the separator on the the feeder engaged and it didn't seem to bog down as much, but it was running empty of course. I'll have to test it out next week with a full hopper, a steep hill, and a wad of kochia.

As for the fuel pump, I turned my high idle up to 2540rpm, but as for messing around with plungers and such I'm a little scared to play with it. Is it quite easy to do yourself or should I get the local diesel shop to take care of it? Buzzard mentioned there is a couple screws on the side of the fuel pump which you take off to access the plunger. I saw 4 screws, 2 of which looked like they needed a hollow torx screwdriver, so I gave up there. Is there any adjustment that can be made to any of the other screws on the exterior of the pump?
 

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have you checked fuel line restrictions? Taken an air hose and blown backwards into tank? That's the second most common power problem after fuel filters that I run into...

Someone mentioned wastegate actuator, but also check your aneriod diaphragm and the lines/tubes/fittings. If there's any leak there it won't let the rack pull clear open to give it full fuel. Doesn't matter how far the fuel screw is turned. Aneroid line is teed into the wastegate line, so there can't be any leaks anywhere.

I would check all these things before I would mess around turning screws and messing with the governor. I'd leave that to someone who has done it before.
 

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i do not have a pump in front of me, so here it goes, you will see two torque screws that need a hollow torx screwdriver, take that cover off, be a bit of oil inside the small cover, you might as well see a sticker on it that says void warrenty if cover is removed

once removed you want to loosen the locking nut on pump side and extend stroke two turns, this mod will then add more fuel on each stroke of the plunger

now for the wastegate mod, by adding more fuel from the pump, you now will make more boost to the motor, but if the wastegate is not adjusted, the extra boost will just be bypassed by the wastegate, this is why we disconect the little hose running to the wastegate actuator, so wastegate is pluged closed and all boost goes to the motor
 

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I have a 2000 2388 that I bought used and have had a power problem as well. I used it 3 years before I found that the aneroid diaphram cover had a hole rubbed in it. So I had that replaced, and still no power. I have taken the wastegate line off and plugged it, still no power. Now the only cover on the pump with special torx is one on the back end of the pump and the aneroid diaphram cover. Is the cover you speak of the one on the back (toward the unload auger side) of the pump then? I need to do something, this is driving me crazy.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm not sure what those screws do, but I do believe that was the plate on the side that Bussard was referring to. I bought a set of tamper resistant torx bits, but just couldn't find a size that worked to get the two bottom screws off to access the plunger inside. If you figure out what size of bit you need please let me know.
 

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Pull your injection pump off, send to pump shop and have pump calibrated to top end of specs.. Make sure actuator on wastegate turbo is adjusted properly. This will wake your combine up. Also make sure electric fuel pump on side of combine is good. Blowing back through fuel line into tank is also a great idea.
 

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After some testing today, I found that my waste gate actuator is leaking air. No problem though since I have the wastegate pressure line disconnected now. Then I think the tube going to the anaroid diaphram was leaking. So I replaced the tube and brass. Will see what happens tomorrow cutting some nice malt barley.
 

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i had a mechanic from cummins out to look at a new tractor. i asked him about my 05 2388 he said if i would advance the timing 6 degrees it would really wake it up
 

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Well, not only was the wastegate actuator leaking but the plastic line going to the anaroid diaphram was leaking too. After replacing it with a new line and brass ends my combine works great now.
Thanks combine forums!
 

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No Start

Our 2388 has decided that today it will not start! Everything as far as the starting procedure has been followed but to no avail. Hydrostat in neutral, separator off, park on.
Fuel pump runs, just dead at the switch...
Any ideas?

Andrew
 
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