Wondering if anyone else that has a 2588 is having problems moving the yield monitor to where they want it. Ours seems to be right in your face and we do not have enough cable to be able to move it off to the side. It's rather annoying and I can't believe that they would give you enough cable to move it anywhere possible on that bar. Thoughts, opionions, comments welcomed, going to be a long fall if I have to look at it the way it is.
2588 yield monitor cable
1 - 2 of 2 Posts
mx110, we had the same exact problem on our 2577. I had to change it because it was very annoying where the monitor was. I think case should have to take care of this for you, but we got stuck fixing ours on our own. The monitor cable that hangs down is wrapped around a main wiring harness once right above where it comes out of the hole in the cab. This is a very hard job to do. I am also a mechanic so it was not horrible for me, but I don't want to do it again. It took me 3 hours to do because I didn't want to break anything on a new combine.
The first thing I did was take the monitor mounting bracket off. This was easy to get off but is a major pain to get back on. There are four little bolts that hold this bracket on. Two of the bolts screw into clips that will stay in place for when you reinstall this bracket, but two of the bolts just screw into 2 nuts, and there is no way to hold them on top for reinstalling this bracket because they are shielded on top also. I used super glue so that the nuts wouldn't move until I had the bolts started. From there you can pull the bracket down very hard which puts pressure on the nuts so that you can screw them in. This process is much easier with a cordless drill. This was the part that took so much time, and I didn't come up with the super glue idea right away.
You also have to be able to unwrap the cable so you have to have access to that as well. I took the screws out of the visor that mount the mount the visor to the cab. This will let you take that front piece out. I then took the speaker covers off so that you can get to the screws behind them. These cover just pull off. They just use tension clips so you just pull the covers right off. I think there are 4 screws behind each speaker cover and four screws by the radio. After these are undone, you just need to pull this assembly out and let it hang until you are done fishing the monitor cable from being wrapped around a main harness just above where the cable comes down into the cab. You will have to reach your hand way back in there to help fish the cable around the harness. Your hand has to reach all the way over to the place where the bracket mounted. From there you can put it all back together.
This process isn't very fun so maybe your dealer will be more receptive to an easier fix like a cable extension or something else. Let me know how it turns out. I am still very upset that I had to do this on a new combine. This was the least of our problems though. Our rotor wouldn't even operate in low range because the factory assembled a linkage wrong on the hand lever in the engine compartment. Also, your new spreader curtain design won't last long either. The spreader bats will catch them and tear them off, while it bends the metal that the curtains attach too. I am also hoping our fuel sender is no good because it took us a full tank according to the sender to combine 50 acres. I don't think I put that much fuel in to fill it back up though so I am hoping it was a bad sender. Does anyone know if the monitor allows you to view how many gallons of fuel per hour or acre on a 2577?
Hope this helps,
Steve
The first thing I did was take the monitor mounting bracket off. This was easy to get off but is a major pain to get back on. There are four little bolts that hold this bracket on. Two of the bolts screw into clips that will stay in place for when you reinstall this bracket, but two of the bolts just screw into 2 nuts, and there is no way to hold them on top for reinstalling this bracket because they are shielded on top also. I used super glue so that the nuts wouldn't move until I had the bolts started. From there you can pull the bracket down very hard which puts pressure on the nuts so that you can screw them in. This process is much easier with a cordless drill. This was the part that took so much time, and I didn't come up with the super glue idea right away.
You also have to be able to unwrap the cable so you have to have access to that as well. I took the screws out of the visor that mount the mount the visor to the cab. This will let you take that front piece out. I then took the speaker covers off so that you can get to the screws behind them. These cover just pull off. They just use tension clips so you just pull the covers right off. I think there are 4 screws behind each speaker cover and four screws by the radio. After these are undone, you just need to pull this assembly out and let it hang until you are done fishing the monitor cable from being wrapped around a main harness just above where the cable comes down into the cab. You will have to reach your hand way back in there to help fish the cable around the harness. Your hand has to reach all the way over to the place where the bracket mounted. From there you can put it all back together.
This process isn't very fun so maybe your dealer will be more receptive to an easier fix like a cable extension or something else. Let me know how it turns out. I am still very upset that I had to do this on a new combine. This was the least of our problems though. Our rotor wouldn't even operate in low range because the factory assembled a linkage wrong on the hand lever in the engine compartment. Also, your new spreader curtain design won't last long either. The spreader bats will catch them and tear them off, while it bends the metal that the curtains attach too. I am also hoping our fuel sender is no good because it took us a full tank according to the sender to combine 50 acres. I don't think I put that much fuel in to fill it back up though so I am hoping it was a bad sender. Does anyone know if the monitor allows you to view how many gallons of fuel per hour or acre on a 2577?
Hope this helps,
Steve
1 - 2 of 2 Posts
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