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Just bought a 2705 MF tractor at a auction with a 8 speed transmision and while driving it home. stoped at a stop sign shifted down and would not go into a gear it would just grind away after letting it coast a little backwards I finanily got it into gear again and drove it the rest of the way home total trip was about 45 miles now that it is at home it refuses to go into any gear I played with the linkage and that doesent seem to help any was wondering if there is some one on this site who had same issues could hopefully help figure whats wrong tractor is mostly meant for grain augar and stone picker.Have other mf tractor with power shift transmission so this on is different for me thanks
 

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have a mf 2675 that does that but not as bad as yours. Idle down when shifting to kinda match ground speed when shift up & opposite when shift down & limit your shifting. Helps to be at complete stop before moving frwd reverse lever and idle down. Its been awhile, years, since i put a clutch in this thing but I think there are transmission break pads on these 8 speeds. so when you engage clutch it'll stop powering/reduce input shaft and keep gears from turning forcefully in transmission and grinding. When i put new clutch in it shifted perfect. Several yr later, 1000hr or so, is shifting worse. I'll look in service book and check it out, I'm curious now
 

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If you shut it off, will it go into gear then? Sounds like your clutch isn't completely disengaging. Not sure if there is a clutch break or not, but maybe the clutch needs adjusting. Pilot bearing seized up causing input shaft to keep turning?
 

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Start with clutch adjustment.
All MF 2000 series tractors have the transmission brake regardless standard or powershift models.
There is no pilot bearing on the transmission input shaft just a brass bushing that is pressure lubricated from the transmission.
 

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I had a 2640 massey that got air in the master cylinder for clutch after it sat a week. It is a plague of my model of tractor I was told. I had it split and new parts put in and still occasionally did this. I finally ended up putting a T into the line from the clutch pedal piston thingy that goes to the clutch release. I plumbed it into the bypass line that feeds oil to the clutch and brake resevoirs. Start the tractor and open the valve a minute or 2 and all the air escapes the line and fills with oil. Close the valve and you are off to the races until your clutch builds with air. There is a bleed screw on the clutch master cylinder but it doesn't remove air in the pressure side of the clutch system. They have a bleed on clutch on side of the tractor but good luck with that. An hr of running tractor wide open trying to bleed air at the bottom of a system is impossible. Been there and done that many times. Often wished I had installed a 12V valve instead of a ball valve so I could just flick a switch and bleed the air rather than reaching around the loader and up under hood to the master cylinder
 

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I had a 2640 massey that got air in the master cylinder for clutch after it sat a week. It is a plague of my model of tractor I was told. I had it split and new parts put in and still occasionally did this. I finally ended up putting a T into the line from the clutch pedal piston thingy that goes to the clutch release. I plumbed it into the bypass line that feeds oil to the clutch and brake resevoirs. Start the tractor and open the valve a minute or 2 and all the air escapes the line and fills with oil. Close the valve and you are off to the races until your clutch builds with air. There is a bleed screw on the clutch master cylinder but it doesn't remove air in the pressure side of the clutch system. They have a bleed on clutch on side of the tractor but good luck with that. An hr of running tractor wide open trying to bleed air at the bottom of a system is impossible. Been there and done that many times. Often wished I had installed a 12V valve instead of a ball valve so I could just flick a switch and bleed the air rather than reaching around the loader and up under hood to the master cylinder
Then you had to throw in the oddball MF 2640 lol
Ya it belongs in the 3500 series same design as those.
North American made MF 2000 series all have dry clutch cable pull operated either lipe style or spicer.
 

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Check the internal adjustment on the clutch, then the external. Just like setting a truck. We used to give them more travel than the book recommends, because the clutch does drag so hard. 9/16" gap between the bearing and the brake with free play removed sounds familiar?

If the clutch brake is worn, the brake can be changed from the bottom, easier if it is a two piece, factory one piece needs to be air chiselled apart.

Being a double disc clutch, the discs could be installed wrong(buttons not lined up with each other), which could warp the center plate causing a lot of drag.
 

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the 2705 does have a clutch brake, if the pedal is pressed all the way down, the clutch brake is actuated, which will actually stop the tractor at low speeds ..... try the clutch pedal only 3/4s of the way down ...
i had my powershift redone at the dealer in yorkton a year or so before he shut down, eastside ag ./. 24 speed, works well, unknown what he did for upgrades though ..only 3800 hours on tractor now, new 38 radials including duals put on same time at goodyear dealer
 

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Discussion Starter #10
the 2705 does have a clutch brake, if the pedal is pressed all the way down, the clutch brake is actuated, which will actually stop the tractor at low speeds ..... try the clutch pedal only 3/4s of the way down ...
i had my powershift redone at the dealer in yorkton a year or so before he shut down, eastside ag ./. 24 speed, works well, unknown what he did for upgrades though ..only 3800 hours on tractor now, new 38 radials including duals put on same time at goodyear dealer
 

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Adding to a tread that I had started this summer Can a person take these 24 speed transmissions out and change this tractor over to a straight 8 speed with no multi power read on a old tread from ag talk that it could be done but they did not explain how it was done and at what cost.
 

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Adding to a tread that I had started this summer Can a person take these 24 speed transmissions out and change this tractor over to a straight 8 speed with no multi power read on a old tread from ag talk that it could be done but they did not explain how it was done and at what cost.
There was a factory kit available once upon a time but it’s been unavailable for more than 25 years.
It could be done but the work would be more than repairing the multipower assembly.
I think I still have that service bulletin if you want it?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
yes if I could get it from you as long it is the one to change a 24 speed power shift to just a 8 speed standard and thanks
 

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First adjust clutch pedal to have 1/8" uplift of pedal then take the cover off under clutch housing & have a 2nd person push the clutch pedal down to see if release bearing contacts transmission brake if it doesn't rotate the flywheel over until the adjustment tab holddown bolt is at the bottom & remove. Then have the person in cab push clutch pedal down 1/2 way & turn the notched ring in pressure plate assembly clockwise to tighten brake or counter clockwise to loosen keeping in mind that as you turn that ring the clutch pedal will become tighter or looser you'll figure it out. In the end the pedal will have 1/8" uplift (pedal loose) & the bottom 1" of pedal travel will be the transmission brake. If it still does not shift the input shaft/clutch disc hub splines are worn & are hanging up once in a while. You might want to check the plastic shift coupler between the side cover & the transmisson linkage under cab held together w/4 1/4" bolts. It is red in color & the stars? cushions between the coupler break off & cannot move the shift fork far enough to go into detent.
 

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I'm pretty confident this kit is never going to happen.
Agreed. To my knowledge none of the main parts are available from MF. I was approached a couple times over the years about converting one of these and only source of parts I knew of was a donor tractor. I've seen those with blown engines, even burnt bring good coin privately and at auction, simply because guys have a good tractor but need those pieces to fix the tranny in the one they got.
Good running tractors in these parts with the 8 speed always bring a premium as well.
 

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Did you ever establish what the problem was? The description in the first post didn't sound like a powershift problem, either clutch/clutch brake, or shift linkage( but I can't picture how that could result in those symptoms.)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
no it actully is one tractor its a long story of a back yard mechanic who claimed he fixed this tractor all up and converted to a standard I bought it at a auction and the most you were able to do with it was drive it back and forth a little bit and that it did fine .basical when I got this tractor home I just parked it until just a few days ago to try and figure it out found the previous owner bought it at a different auction for less money and gave it a wash job and said it is fixed sent it down the road, the sad thing about it I phoned him before the auction and he said he had fixed on it and a dealer did to that its good to go oh well not the first time I bought a lemon so that is why it was a bit confusing wasnt sure what heck I had the gear shift pattern in this tractor is different than other ones I do have a 2745 with a power shift sitting in the bush
 
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