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My 2188 has a leaking tire on the right side. The tire is "rigged" tubeless, by my tire guy. He said the tire has side wall cracking on the inside and it was pinching the tube and caused it to go flat. He removed the tube and put a hex nut with a threaded hole in the center to accommodate the valve stem. This worked great for about 2 months and now it leaking between the valve stem threads and the nut. The style of nut looks to be specifically for this type of fix so I don't think it just some kind of bull ship rigging. I know and plan on putting new rubber on it for next year but would like to get through this season with the old ones. How can I fix this leak without breaking the tire down?
 

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Wouldn't this just be a standard type of tubeless tire valve stem assembly that breaks down into a few components, the outer larger portion which goes into the wheel hole from the inside when the tire is off and a nut is spun down and tightened on the outside of the rim and has the rubber gasket seal on the back side which seals to the inside of the rim. Then a screw in core assembly which in itself has an external Oring to seal in the hole its threaded into, finally a normal shrade valve inside of that. Another words a typical tractor tubeless valve assembly as the hole diameter in a wheel is designed to fit either a tire tube stem or one of these assemblies unless he used something else ?

If it is what I think it is, you may have to snug that outer nut down a bit if you haven't tried that but just be careful not to turn too hard, they are not that strong.
 

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I would suggest adding a tire sealant. We have used Amerseal (now called Liquitube) in that size of tire (and many, many others) with very good results. The main downside is that in a large tire like that it uses quite a bit of product ($160 worth ??). Be sure to use the recommended amount for whatever size of tire you are working on (They have a chart with all the specs). When checking air pressure with sealant installed, give it a little shot of air first to clear the stem so you don't fill the gauge with sealant. They have a pump you can buy to use with the 5 gal pails of product that works very well for installing the correct amount.
 

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Speaking of trying to seal it if snugging it up isn't working and you are able to loosen it off some, one substance I would try which may sound goofy but that is teflon sealing tape, wrap some around under the nut and snug it back down .... first I would test to see if it will turn a bit as it just might be on the loose side.
 

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It is hard to say what exactly your problem is. It sounds like maybe the tire is no longer structurally sound and unable to hold a tube. I have a feeling you are referring to a tubeless air/water valve that was installed. Maybe your tire guy patched the tire and installed it tubeless.


If it is a tubeless valve, and it is leaking, just tighten it a bit, if it is a tube and it is leaking at the valve hole you have a puncture somewhere. If it is a puncture, fixing it properly is probably your best bet, sealant for a 30.5R32 is not going to be cheap, especially if you pay a service call for a guy to come pump it in.


Usually when a tire is cracking inside that is a sign of overloading/underinflation or just a poor quality tire. I see a lot of tires on combines failing due to overloading/underinflation. I'd say more often than not by the time a combine tire is cracking internally bad enough that it eats tubes the tire is beyond saving.
Generally I wouldn't recommend even tubing a radial tire, when you run a tube you have to either sacrifice flexion to reduce the chance of tube slip/chafing by increasing air pressure, or just get comfortable purchasing tubes. And if you are running a radial tire rock hard to save tubes, you're not benefiting from the radial construction at all. Might as well be running bias.
 
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