This is a fuel temperature to high could be the fuel temperature to high, sender or harness. FUEL TEMPERATURE CIRCUIT IS DERATING DUE TO A FAILURE IN THE SENSOR OR HARNESS, OR THE FUEL IS REACHING A TEMPERATURE THAT CAUSES DERATE TO OCCUR. FAILURE IS NOT A COMPLETE OPEN OR SHORT THAT WOULD CAUSE A 37E OR 38E ERROR CODE.
Solution Number: 6111
Solution Summary: SIB-97-5-25-09 AUG 22 1997 ERROR CODE 37E OR 38E IS DISPLAYED ON THE TACHOMETER / MAY HAVE LOW POWER------9500, SideHill 9500,CTS and 9600 Combines
**Paper copies of solutions may not be the most current solutions**
Complaint or Symptom :
ERROR CODE 37E OR 38E IS DISPLAYED ON THE TACHOMETER. LOW ENGINE POWER MAY ACCOMPANY THESE ERROR CODES.
REFER TO PIP 97H-153 THAT CORRECTED THE CONNECTOR PROBLEM ON 9600 COMBINES.
Problem or Situation :
CONNECTOR (A) COULD BE LOOSE.
WIRING TO CONNECTOR (A) COULD BE DAMAGED.
FUEL TEMPERATURE SENSOR COULD BE FAILED.
1.) VERIFY THE CONNECTOR IS TIGHT BY CHECKING THE AMOUNT OF MOVEMENT IN THE COUPLING PLASTIC RING (A). IF THERE IS NO MOVEMENT, THE CONNECTOR IS TIGHT. IF THERE IS MOVEMENT, GO TO STEP 2.
2.) LOOSEN AND REMOVE THE FUEL SENSOR CONNECTOR. REMOVE SCREWS (B & C) AND CLAMP. REMOVE SCREW (D) FROM CONNECTOR BODY. HOLDING INSIDE CONNECTOR (E) (UNDER SILVER RING), TURN CONNECTOR HOUSING.
NOTE: MAKE SURE YOU HOLD THE INSIDE OF CONNECTOR (E) AND TURN THE TOP OF THE CONNECTOR TO GUARD AGAINST THE WIRES TWISTING.
3.) SEPARATE TOP OF CONNECTOR (F) FROM THE BOTTOM CONNECTOR.
4.) PULL UP THE GASKET AND RUBBER SEAL (G). CHECK FOR BURNT OR TWISTED WIRES (H). IF THERE IS NO DAMAGE, REASSEMBLE THE CONNECTOR.
NOTE: MAKE SURE YOU HOLD THE INSIDE OF THE CONNECTOR AND TURN THE TOP OF THE CONNECTOR TO GUARD AGAINST THE WIRES TWISTING.
IF THERE IS ANY DAMAGE, ORDER AH157803 AND INSTALL THE KIT USING THE FOLLOWING INSTRUCTIONS.
A.) REMOVE THE CORRUGATED CONDUIT FROM THE WIRE HARNESS AND IDENTIFY THE WIRES CODED 128 AND 130. REMOVE THE OLD CONNECTOR, INSTALL HEAT SHRINK TUBING (1) OVER THE WIRES, AND SOLDER THE NEW CONNECTOR ONTO THE HARNESS. MAKE CERTAIN THE WIRE CODES MATCH.
IMPORTANT: WHEN REMOVING THE OLD CONNECTOR, CUT ONE WIRE 35 MM (1-IN.) LONGER. THE EXTRA LENGTH WILL PROVIDE ADDITIONAL STRENGTH IN THE HARNESS.
B.) WRAP THE REPAIRED HARNESS WITH ELECTRICAL TAPE STARTING AT THE CONNECTOR AND CONTINUE 50 MM (2 IN) PAST THE SOLDER JOINT.
C.) INSERT THE WIRE INTO THE CORRUGATED CONDUIT. TAPE THE CONDUIT BY STARTING AT THE CONNECTOR END. APPLY TWO FULL WRAPS OF TAPE ON THE WIRES BEFORE TAPING THE CONDUIT. CONTINUE TO TAPE THE CONDUIT 25 MM (1-IN) PAST THE BREAKOUT FOR THE FUEL SHUT-OFF SOLENOID.
D.) CLEAN THE FUEL SENSOR CONTACTS AND APPLY A LIGHT COAT OF OIL ON THE O-RING (L). INSTALL THE CONNECTOR ASSEMBLY AND TIGHTEN THE METAL RETAINING NUT (K) UNTIL THERE IS NO MOVEMENT IN THE PLASTIC CONNECTOR (J).
+ YOU MUST USE A LUBRICANT ON THE O-RING OR THE METAL RETAINING NUT WILL NOT TIGHTEN.
IMPORTANT: METAL NUT (K) MAY SEEM TO BE TIGHT AND PLASTIC CONNECTOR (J) COULD BE LOOSE. CONTINUE TO TIGHTEN THE NUT UNTIL THE PLASTIC CONNECTOR WILL NOT MOVE.
E.) CLEAR ALL ERROR CODES ON THE TACHOMETER. REFER TO INSTRUCTIONS IN TM1402 OR TM1702.
NOTE: IF THE PROBLEM PERSISTS, THE FUEL TEMPERATURE SENSOR RE28217 MAY BE DEFECTIVE. CHECK RESISTANCE BETWEEN THE 2 PINS IN THE SENSOR. THE RESISTANCE SHOULD BE BETWEEN 600 - 15,000 OHMS. IF THE RESISTANCE IS OUTSIDE OF THIS RANGE, REPLACE THE FUEL TEMPERATURE SENSOR.
It sounds like you might have 2 problems. The 37E code is for sure a problem with the fuel temp sensor on the injection pump. Most of the time the wires in the top are just worn or rubbed off. I have seen this problem many times and never has is caused the engine to cut out. This sounds more like an issue with the fuel shut-off and wiring or an internal pump problem. I had a 9600 last fall that gave a blip as if you cycled the key quickly. It turned out to be a problem with the speed sensor inside the pump.
it was the wiring connections out the top of the pump. Its not the bosch pump its the other one. anyways fix some poor wires and taped everything up and haven't heard a blip since. I hope thats all it was. I can't afford an injection pump right now. If I did have to change the pump could I put the bosch in it and turn it up a lil bit more?? Also My windshield wiper motor doesn't work is it accessed from inside the cab behind the warning lights or on the outside where it is bolted (but doesn't want to come off easily?? I'm sure some mice ate a wire in 2. they love to build nest in the warning lights compartment every year I shop-vac a mini city of a mouse house out of that compartment. Thanks in advance for the wiper motor help I will probably need it to cut wheat with since I get at least a quarter of an inch per day now.
For us, it was the positive battery cable. We replaced the big relays in back at first to no avail, so that was the next step, as we isolated to that point. So far, so good.
On the subject of high temp, any reason why the water gauge goes high and then drops like a rock after cooling? First thought is thermostat going out, but looking for other suspects.
Your pumps mechanical parts are probaly still in good shape so you should be able to take it to a good pump shop and get it repaired for a lot less than a new pump. Might just need a sensor or tone wheel.
You can access the wiper motor by removing the large upholstery panel at the top of the windshield in side the cab. It just pops out.
I have a problem on John Deere 8300 tractor and the problem is that the revs are oscilating 100 rpms all the time when I work, when I turn on tractor and whenever the tractor is in parking, rpms are on steady 800 rpm. When I plough, I get that stupid 1900-2000 rpm oscillation and it annoys me, A LOT. So it is in the same rhythm, it does not matter if I am in 4th gear or in 8th gear, it always act and sounds the same. BOsch injector pump is completely overhauled and all new needed elements, injectors are calibrated but not new. I have some suspicion on that fuel sensor temperaure but I dont know if that sensor can make that stupid 50-100-150 rpm oscillation, it does that all the time, second is on the 2000 and then second on 1950 or 1900. Can anyone tell me what could be the problem because it is killing me.
Tractor was oscilating all the time when I bought it, on idle it reved 100 rpms, and also trough complete rpm scale it reved the same, it sounded really stupid. After Bosch injector pump was repaired and changed all parts needed I have mounted it but they did not have new injection nozzles so they have calibrated 6 old nozzles and they have said that they reached 280 bar pressures or something like that, the number that is needed. And then after some time I have noticed that the tractor revs in work now but in idle it is steady at 800-810 rpms, after 1400 rpms in work it starts to do that, especially in harder work. I have read something in JD Service Advisor that it could be "Fuel temparature sensor" but I dont have any clue if that sensor could do that, it looks like the pump does not give constantly exactly the same amout of fuel to the injectors but every second it gives less fuel and then gives enough. Power and the sound goes like this -----__-----__-----___....