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Discussion Starter #1
The auger on my 4420 is worn to the point that it will not engage on the driver stub as you swing it up. Last season, I rigged it with a string to raise it up and hold it while I swung it out so it would ride up on the stub and engage. Has anyone ever fixed this by putting a liner inside the tube to raise the auger? Or am I looking at a new auger? (OUCH, drought last year, $$$)


Also, there is a canvas drape that hangs down just in front of the chaffer / sieve that is worn to about nothing. How important is this, should it be fixed?
 

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WE took washers and shimed the auger in, I think its 5/8 bolt just take the nut off put the washers in behind the bearing. It took two times for us to get it right.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It's not that it doesn't close far enough, it is too low. If you were to swing the auger all the way up without lifting up the end of the auger, it would go under the tapered driver. First time this happened, it pushed out the end ouf the tube where the bearing is. Ugly. And had to go through the shimming routine there, but bottom end is too low.
 

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Sorry I do not understand, we are having problems with our cylinder, the rod is pitted and tore the seals out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hey Gravy, I'll try to 'splain one more time...The auger housing, hinge, cylinder, etc is fine, and closes all the way and tightly. The problem is, it seems like the flighting on the auger itself is worn down so that the diameter of it is smaller. So instead of the inside of the tube going onto the driver as it's swung up, if you're not watching it will just go under it, causing some nasty ugliness. I was wondering if some sort of liner could be made to hold the auger more centered or what. Does that help?

Any thoughts on the function of that canvas I'm asking about?

If the cylinder rod is pitted enough to tear seals, you're bummin'. Maybe having it plated would be cheaper than a new rod, maybe not.
 

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You might be able to re-flight the auger, or find one at a boneyard.
A auger tube liner will slow down the unload rate as compared to new flighting. If you're good with a shear and welder you might be able to do it yourself.
 
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