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5 way nozzle bodies for AIM

854 Views 14 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  WilgerIndustries
I have a 4420 with aim. I bought wilger 5 way nozzle bodies and in less than a year, half of them won't turn.







Does anybody Else make a 5 way for aim?
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Do you have tips on all of them? Probably filled with dust and it’s caked in there now
Do you have tips on all of them? Probably filled wit







Do you have tips on all of them? Probably filled with dust and it’s caked in there now














They aseals. ave tips on them. Always have. Apparently dust to get in around the seal
Yes they all have tips on them. Apparently dust gets in around the seals of the body and makes them impossible to turn. I've been breaking them trying to turn them to a different novel Apparently dust gets in around the seals of the body and makes them impossible to turn period of embraking them trying to turn them to a different nozzle.
I have 5-way bodies as well, but haven't had any problems turning them.

You can easily disassemble them and clean out the dust if you need to . They are designed to come apart and slide off the central part when the solenoid is unscrewed from the body.
G'day Notinteresting,

Sorry you are having so much grief.

Like Torriem mentioned, they can be dissassembled, as I'm guessing the turrets behind the tires would be the worst for dust. If you were taking the ones behind the boom apart to clean them out, throwing some vaseline in there would act as a second barrier that might help as well. Liberal around around the dust-shield o-ring to the outside would provide an extra barrier. Since it is more of a barrier than a standard o-ring, even if the vaseline lessens the life of the dust-shield o-ring, that o-ring isn't moving/sealing or seeing pressure.

One quick thing to try (with extra caution) might be once the boom is cleaned and rinsed, to rotate the turret under just a bit of pressure to try flush out the cavity between those two dust shield o-rings on that body. The dust shield o-rings are a bit limited in what they can do for crush in that situation on the nozzle body as they'd otherwise make a fair bit of friction when turning in any situation. Again, safety is key as the turrets aren't designed to be turned under pressure, but you'd be taking that to your advantage to clear out the cavity space. Again, Torriems suggestion would be better in addressing the issue itself, and putting some preventative maintenance on it.

On the 4420 as well, I think you have a bit more space on the boom frame as well, so you might actually be able to mount the turrets on the front of your saddle body. This would inhibit the dust hitting the pack of that nozzle body with all the turbulence that hits the sprayer. Back in the 4420 they swapped from a side-fed to a bottom-fed nozzle body, so that would change how you'd put the turret on the 'front' of the boom between the tube and the frame. Again, I'd warrant taking a look at your boom and seeing if this would even make sense.

As far as going to an alternate nozzle turret, it isn't an easy thing to do either. This isn't by design or anything like that, but each nozzle body manufacturer over the last 20-30 years or so uses a different type of module thread. I think ARAG and HYPRO use the same thread 1" british thread iirc, but outside of that, it isn't just the thread on the solenoid that is different, there are also different stainless spuds of that solenoid as well as the stainless chunks' sealing surface. So, technically you could swap, but I recall someone telling me it was in the realm of like $150/body for the solenoid retrofit kit. (and that was a few years ago, so pre-covid pricing). While we do make a side turret module that lets you use a Teejet/Hypro/Arag solenoid on a Wilger turret, no one else manufactures anything as far as conversion kits to other modules as far as I'm aware.

Another tool to mitigate your issue would potentially using our front-turret. The side and top-turret, by design to made to alleviate a lot of the extra weight of larger solenoids bouncing in the field, as well as to alleviate folding issues with the changing solenoid shapes of Aim Command FLEX and Aim Command Flex II. Since these turrets push the dust shield o-ring spot to be like ~2" further out behind the boom, the dust kicked off the tires has a much better way of penetrating the turret. The original front-turret is generally the least trouble for dust getting into the nozzle body as that dust shield is tucked MUCH closer to the saddle body itself, so there is less of a clear path for the dust to penetrate the dust shield o-ring. It could be a situation that you'd just swap the turrets on the center-rack to that style of turret as that's the primary bodies that'd probably give you a lot of grief.

So, once again, sorry for the trouble you've been having. It isn't something we like to see by any means. The side/top turrets were literally designed around trying to mitigate critical folding/clearance/torque issues that arose from solenoids and systems changing, not to make an inferior product. (Especially as the cavity/dust shield design is literally the same as the original front turret and generally performs really well in regards to dust getting into the body.

Let me know if that makes sense, or if you have any other questions or issues,

-Lucas
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G'day Notinteresting,

Sorry you are having so much grief.

Like Torriem mentioned, they can be dissassembled, as I'm guessing the turrets behind the tires would be the worst for dust. If you were taking the ones behind the boom apart to clean them out, throwing some vaseline in there would act as a second barrier that might help as well. Liberal around around the dust-shield o-ring to the outside would provide an extra barrier. Since it is more of a barrier than a standard o-ring, even if the vaseline lessens the life of the dust-shield o-ring, that o-ring isn't moving/sealing or seeing pressure.

One quick thing to try (with extra caution) might be once the boom is cleaned and rinsed, to rotate the turret under just a bit of pressure to try flush out the cavity between those two dust shield o-rings on that body. The dust shield o-rings are a bit limited in what they can do for crush in that situation on the nozzle body as they'd otherwise make a fair bit of friction when turning in any situation. Again, safety is key as the turrets aren't designed to be turned under pressure, but you'd be taking that to your advantage to clear out the cavity space. Again, Torriems suggestion would be better in addressing the issue itself, and putting some preventative maintenance on it.

On the 4420 as well, I think you have a bit more space on the boom frame as well, so you might actually be able to mount the turrets on the front of your saddle body. This would inhibit the dust hitting the pack of that nozzle body with all the turbulence that hits the sprayer. Back in the 4420 they swapped from a side-fed to a bottom-fed nozzle body, so that would change how you'd put the turret on the 'front' of the boom between the tube and the frame. Again, I'd warrant taking a look at your boom and seeing if this would even make sense.

As far as going to an alternate nozzle turret, it isn't an easy thing to do either. This isn't by design or anything like that, but each nozzle body manufacturer over the last 20-30 years or so uses a different type of module thread. I think ARAG and HYPRO use the same thread 1" british thread iirc, but outside of that, it isn't just the thread on the solenoid that is different, there are also different stainless spuds of that solenoid as well as the stainless chunks' sealing surface. So, technically you could swap, but I recall someone telling me it was in the realm of like $150/body for the solenoid retrofit kit. (and that was a few years ago, so pre-covid pricing). While we do make a side turret module that lets you use a Teejet/Hypro/Arag solenoid on a Wilger turret, no one else manufactures anything as far as conversion kits to other modules as far as I'm aware.

Another tool to mitigate your issue would potentially using our front-turret. The side and top-turret, by design to made to alleviate a lot of the extra weight of larger solenoids bouncing in the field, as well as to alleviate folding issues with the changing solenoid shapes of Aim Command FLEX and Aim Command Flex II. Since these turrets push the dust shield o-ring spot to be like ~2" further out behind the boom, the dust kicked off the tires has a much better way of penetrating the turret. The original front-turret is generally the least trouble for dust getting into the nozzle body as that dust shield is tucked MUCH closer to the saddle body itself, so there is less of a clear path for the dust to penetrate the dust shield o-ring. It could be a situation that you'd just swap the turrets on the center-rack to that style of turret as that's the primary bodies that'd probably give you a lot of grief.

So, once again, sorry for the trouble you've been having. It isn't something we like to see by any means. The side/top turrets were literally designed around trying to mitigate critical folding/clearance/torque issues that arose from solenoids and systems changing, not to make an inferior product. (Especially as the cavity/dust shield design is literally the same as the original front turret and generally performs really well in regards to dust getting into the body.

Let me know if that makes sense, or if you have any other questions or issues,

-Lucas
Ive had Teejet 5 way bodies on a sprayer for over 10 years with absolutely no problem. Never had to part them out and clean them.

Does anybody make a turret that fits on the quick tach part of the body?
I totally get it. Unfortunately, no one makes a quick-attach turret or body that would mount onto what you have right now. You'd have to swap the entire nozzle body (and turret) as well as as most of your solenoid.

There'd likely be tons in the same boat with the older front turret (e.g. #41535-00) on 2010-2016 Case IH machines that wouldn't have had much grief with dust as well that are already 10 years+ old too. It's just the pairing of the new design that was made to fix folding issues on the boom (that even though it had the same sealing mechanism/profile/o-rings in the exact same positions had no issues for the 10+ years prior). It's not a common situation that we'd expect you to have to take apart a nozzle body to clean something out on any sort of regular basis.

I completely get that you are literally doing everything you can to keep dust out as well (caps on each outlet/etc), I'd be super frustrated too. I'm just trying to do what I can to try alleviate from here to help out from here.
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So the 41535-00 mou

I totally get it. Unfortunately, no one makes a quick-attach turret or body that would mount onto what you have right now. You'd have to swap the entire nozzle body (and turret) as well as as most of your solenoid.



There'd likely be tons in the same boat with the older front turret (e.g. #41535-00) on 2010-2016 Case IH machines that wouldn't have had much grief with dust as well that are already 10 years+ old too. It's just the pairing of the new design that was made to fix folding issues on the boom (that even though it had the same sealing mechanism/profile/o-rings in the exact same positions had no issues for the 10+ years prior). It's not a common situation that we'd expect you to have to take apart a nozzle body to clean something out on any sort of regular basis.



I completely get that you are literally doing everything you can to keep dust out as well (caps on each outlet/etc), I'd be super frustrated too. I'm just trying to do what I can to try alleviate from here to help out from here.
So the 41535-00 mounts in front of the wet boom? I think I would need all new saddles to utilize this.

Sorry about the broken typing. Using my phone in the tractor isn't ideal.
So the 41535-00 mounts in front of the wet boom? I think I would need all new saddles to utilize this.

Sorry about the broken typing. Using my phone in the tractor isn't ideal.
Ha, no worries about the typing.

Nope, only thing required would be to pull the uclip from the current turret and replace it with the other turret.

By "front" turret, it is meaning the solenoid is sticking out the front face of the turret. (perpendicular to the boom, pointing backwards).

This means there is barely any room between the solenoid and the saddle body (like right up against the saddle).

Your version probably has the solenoid inbetween the saddle and the actual turret outlets, eh? (either as a reversible side turret, or pointing up as the top turret)

I can't remember on your sprayer how much room you have infront of the boom tube itself, but if it is our older side saddle parts (literally it is a saddle with the u clip part only - no outlet or check valve on this part), then you can technically rotate the boom 180° forward and have your same turrets pointed forward. Might be worth a shot to try rotate with what you have now to see if it improves after the dust gets taken out, but you'd have to pull the uclips for that section off, rotate the boom, then put the turrets back on (making sure the "this point down" is pointing down). Anyways, that'd be another option to minimize how must dust is shooting towards the dust shield. Downside is during road travel technically could have dirt clouds getting tossed at your solenoid/cabling. Anyways, that's maybe too much effort for now as it'd probably be an hour or so of work.
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ok. thanks for the info.

I am having a little difficulty not using AI nozzles. I have unacceptable drift. Has anyone ever put AI nozzles on the manual nozzle body for the main coverage and then put super coarse nozzles on the pwm body? Then you would get pressure control with less drift I think.

I have a couple nozzle sizing questions for you. I have the capstan evo.
Glyphosate at 5gpa, max speed 19mph. Looking for a very coarse droplet. Your nozzle wizard is kind of at an in-between sizing. 03 or 04 or 05?

I am going to do my fusarium spraying a little different this year. 15gpa. 16-18mph. Looking for mostly coarse droplets. Should I open the second nozzle and run 2 nozzles for better coverage? How do I size nozzles for this?? I have tried some pretty special nozzles with dual patterns and I think just using more water would be better.
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Yes I believe you can do that. My neighbor does it on his 4420. I'm not sure what setup is required but he runs a set of nozzles on the non-PWM bodies and also the PWM nozzles at the same time. EDIT: Not sure about Capstan Evo. My neighbor runs regular Aim Command.

As for sizing, you just add the two nozzles together. For example, if you had some 06s and 04s, that's the equivalent of 10s.

Wilger does now offer a dual connector that lets you put two nozzles on the same mount, designed for fungicide application.
ok. thanks for the info.

I am having a little difficulty not using AI nozzles. I have unacceptable drift. Has anyone ever put AI nozzles on the manual nozzle body for the main coverage and then put super coarse nozzles on the pwm body? Then you would get pressure control with less drift I think.

I have a couple nozzle sizing questions for you. I have the capstan evo.
Glyphosate at 5gpa, max speed 19mph. Looking for a very coarse droplet. Your nozzle wizard is kind of at an in-between sizing. 03 or 04 or 05?

I am going to do my fusarium spraying a little different this year. 15gpa. 16-18mph. Looking for mostly coarse droplets. Should I open the second nozzle and run 2 nozzles for better coverage? How do I size nozzles for this?? I have tried some pretty special nozzles with dual patterns and I think just using more water would be better.
G'day Notinteresting,

For the nozzle side of things, there are definitely coarser nozzles for sure that you can use that are still PWM. Often they are almost too coarse for most folks, so things are usually sized to be more towards a solid coverage & drift control balance than shifting most of the weight to drift reduction. Like the DR and UR series nozzles stack up to the coarser end of the AI nozzles themselves. They'd be too coarse for many, but you'd know your field conditions and drift sensitivity way better than me, so might just be a matter of fine tuning to your conditions.

Which nozzles/series/sizes were you using right now by the way?

For the 5GPA, 19MPH, looking for Very Coarse or coarser, you'd probably be sorted out with a 110-04 for best size. Were you talking this being the PWM nozzle or non-PWM? Make sure when you are using the Tip Wizard that you are selecting PWM, as if you run the same searches in rate-controlled, it won't show the duty cycle and the flow rates will be a bit off.



So, this would likely be what you'd be looking at. If you were talking ~15-19mph, you'd have means to reduce drift down to very very low levels.
For the duty cycle, generally I'd recommend aiming for a duty cycle between 60-80% at your typical speeds. This means you have a bit of leeway on the upper end, it keeps your duty cycle from getting too low when you are turning or doing headlands, and gives you extra flow capacity out of the nozzle for your turn compensation by section for a bit cleaner corners too.

For fusarium spraying, there is a benefit to having your nozzles spraying front/back. Generally with a coarse nozzle you'd be talking in the realm of like 14-16% better droplet deposition. This is due to the head (or flag-leaf and up) being the only target, so you want the spray to start travelling horizontally across the top of the canopy to hit the front/back of the head. The back nozzle angle is less important (could pretty well be pointed straight down), but the front nozzle is a very effective use in headblight spraying. If i recall, the best study I saw for FHB found there seemed to be a sweet spot around the 10-12MPH (and that was better coverage than slower than the 5MPH trials in lab/field they did for replication.)

Mind you, angled spraying isn't the ideal in most other circumstances, as most other fungicides aren't looking for primarily top-canopy coverage. They (and herbicides) need to be drilled into the canopy and try get coverage in the mid-low canopy all the way down to the stem instead of getting hung up in the top of a dense canopy. If you are doing these higher volume 15GPA+ fungicides into a canopy, then I'd suggest you look at something like you were mentioning before, using the PWM+ non-PWM nozzle on your sprayer. Ideally you have better control of the PWM nozzle, so it is recommended to havelike 50-66% of the total flow rate going through the PWM body. (as you wont have turn comp by section for the non-PWM nozzles). Alternatively, you can use a double-down style adapter (either as a standalone adapter or swap an outlet in your turret) to use two pulsing as well, BUT you will still hit the flow restriction through the solenoid. (e.g. Two -06s on a double down being fed by the solenoid is the same as a -12 nozzle side, so you'd get the pressure loss/flow of a -12,and NOT 2x -06 nozzle flow rates).

This is those adapters that'd lock onto the outlet if you needed part numbers/etc.



So, if you were talking a fusarium headblight application for 15GPA, you might JUST hit the flow restriction through the solenoid. (Pretty much any nozzle through the solenoid will have a soft-cap of around 1.0-1.25 us gpm, unless you had high flow solenoids.) This might mean the solenoids get maxed out and you might need to slow down a tad.

Technically, just to get your flow rate up, you'd likely have to be in the realm of a -12 size nozzle to make it effective for flow rate and duty cycle. A -10 size (equivalent) is just too small as you'd start getting speed restrictive.

This is what the speed/duty cycle chart would look like:





The SR110-06s kind of have the same spray quality (as an example, you'd be spraying at like 60PSI) if you were using two of them. It is an opportunity if you wanted an even coarser nozzle forward and a finer nozzle backward as well, as you are going fast enough that with an angled nozzle you could tolerate a bit coarser spray. (or you can add/change with nozzles you have on hand, as this might be a good opportunity to use one of the nozzles you were finding too fine for your earlier season work -e.g. could do a 110-08 + 110-04, etc. I generally recommend if you are a non-even-split nozzle pair that you put the higher flow forward or alternate fronts/backs).

The dual nozzle charts are from the new Tip Wizard that should be coming out soon. (Android app version is done now, and Apple/WEB versions are just underway for the update). If you have an android phone or tablet, I can post a link to the app file to be installed, as it has a way better layout for dual nozzle selection as there is some technical stuff in the back end that will differ from selecting a single nozzle.

Anyways, hope that gives a bit of an idea. If you wanted to let me know which nozzles you have on hand right now as well, as that might work its way into the equation of setting the spray nozzle/selection in a way that'd work for you.
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19 mph
what you do rest off the day
Hah, Grumpie, generally when I'm working with applicators, generally everything is centered around going the speed they are wanting to go. Pretty much applying the best as possible given their speeds/etc. So, I've worked with guys spraying down to 3MPH and upwards of 27MPH. Definitely a whole lotta variability and situations for sure.

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