Do you have tips on all of them? Probably filled with dust and it’s caked in there now
Yes they all have tips on them. Apparently dust gets in around the seals of the body and makes them impossible to turn. I've been breaking them trying to turn them to a different novel Apparently dust gets in around the seals of the body and makes them impossible to turn period of embraking them trying to turn them to a different nozzle.Do you have tips on all of them? Probably filled wit
Do you have tips on all of them? Probably filled with dust and it’s caked in there now
They aseals. ave tips on them. Always have. Apparently dust to get in around the seal
Ive had Teejet 5 way bodies on a sprayer for over 10 years with absolutely no problem. Never had to part them out and clean them.G'day Notinteresting,
Sorry you are having so much grief.
Like Torriem mentioned, they can be dissassembled, as I'm guessing the turrets behind the tires would be the worst for dust. If you were taking the ones behind the boom apart to clean them out, throwing some vaseline in there would act as a second barrier that might help as well. Liberal around around the dust-shield o-ring to the outside would provide an extra barrier. Since it is more of a barrier than a standard o-ring, even if the vaseline lessens the life of the dust-shield o-ring, that o-ring isn't moving/sealing or seeing pressure.
One quick thing to try (with extra caution) might be once the boom is cleaned and rinsed, to rotate the turret under just a bit of pressure to try flush out the cavity between those two dust shield o-rings on that body. The dust shield o-rings are a bit limited in what they can do for crush in that situation on the nozzle body as they'd otherwise make a fair bit of friction when turning in any situation. Again, safety is key as the turrets aren't designed to be turned under pressure, but you'd be taking that to your advantage to clear out the cavity space. Again, Torriems suggestion would be better in addressing the issue itself, and putting some preventative maintenance on it.
On the 4420 as well, I think you have a bit more space on the boom frame as well, so you might actually be able to mount the turrets on the front of your saddle body. This would inhibit the dust hitting the pack of that nozzle body with all the turbulence that hits the sprayer. Back in the 4420 they swapped from a side-fed to a bottom-fed nozzle body, so that would change how you'd put the turret on the 'front' of the boom between the tube and the frame. Again, I'd warrant taking a look at your boom and seeing if this would even make sense.
As far as going to an alternate nozzle turret, it isn't an easy thing to do either. This isn't by design or anything like that, but each nozzle body manufacturer over the last 20-30 years or so uses a different type of module thread. I think ARAG and HYPRO use the same thread 1" british thread iirc, but outside of that, it isn't just the thread on the solenoid that is different, there are also different stainless spuds of that solenoid as well as the stainless chunks' sealing surface. So, technically you could swap, but I recall someone telling me it was in the realm of like $150/body for the solenoid retrofit kit. (and that was a few years ago, so pre-covid pricing). While we do make a side turret module that lets you use a Teejet/Hypro/Arag solenoid on a Wilger turret, no one else manufactures anything as far as conversion kits to other modules as far as I'm aware.
Another tool to mitigate your issue would potentially using our front-turret. The side and top-turret, by design to made to alleviate a lot of the extra weight of larger solenoids bouncing in the field, as well as to alleviate folding issues with the changing solenoid shapes of Aim Command FLEX and Aim Command Flex II. Since these turrets push the dust shield o-ring spot to be like ~2" further out behind the boom, the dust kicked off the tires has a much better way of penetrating the turret. The original front-turret is generally the least trouble for dust getting into the nozzle body as that dust shield is tucked MUCH closer to the saddle body itself, so there is less of a clear path for the dust to penetrate the dust shield o-ring. It could be a situation that you'd just swap the turrets on the center-rack to that style of turret as that's the primary bodies that'd probably give you a lot of grief.
So, once again, sorry for the trouble you've been having. It isn't something we like to see by any means. The side/top turrets were literally designed around trying to mitigate critical folding/clearance/torque issues that arose from solenoids and systems changing, not to make an inferior product. (Especially as the cavity/dust shield design is literally the same as the original front turret and generally performs really well in regards to dust getting into the body.
Let me know if that makes sense, or if you have any other questions or issues,
-Lucas
I totally get it. Unfortunately, no one makes a quick-attach turret or body that would mount onto what you have right now. You'd have to swap the entire nozzle body (and turret) as well as as most of your solenoid.
There'd likely be tons in the same boat with the older front turret (e.g. #41535-00) on 2010-2016 Case IH machines that wouldn't have had much grief with dust as well that are already 10 years+ old too. It's just the pairing of the new design that was made to fix folding issues on the boom (that even though it had the same sealing mechanism/profile/o-rings in the exact same positions had no issues for the 10+ years prior). It's not a common situation that we'd expect you to have to take apart a nozzle body to clean something out on any sort of regular basis.
I completely get that you are literally doing everything you can to keep dust out as well (caps on each outlet/etc), I'd be super frustrated too. I'm just trying to do what I can to try alleviate from here to help out from here.
Ha, no worries about the typing.So the 41535-00 mounts in front of the wet boom? I think I would need all new saddles to utilize this.
Sorry about the broken typing. Using my phone in the tractor isn't ideal.
G'day Notinteresting,ok. thanks for the info.
I am having a little difficulty not using AI nozzles. I have unacceptable drift. Has anyone ever put AI nozzles on the manual nozzle body for the main coverage and then put super coarse nozzles on the pwm body? Then you would get pressure control with less drift I think.
I have a couple nozzle sizing questions for you. I have the capstan evo.
Glyphosate at 5gpa, max speed 19mph. Looking for a very coarse droplet. Your nozzle wizard is kind of at an in-between sizing. 03 or 04 or 05?
I am going to do my fusarium spraying a little different this year. 15gpa. 16-18mph. Looking for mostly coarse droplets. Should I open the second nozzle and run 2 nozzles for better coverage? How do I size nozzles for this?? I have tried some pretty special nozzles with dual patterns and I think just using more water would be better.
Hah, Grumpie, generally when I'm working with applicators, generally everything is centered around going the speed they are wanting to go. Pretty much applying the best as possible given their speeds/etc. So, I've worked with guys spraying down to 3MPH and upwards of 27MPH. Definitely a whole lotta variability and situations for sure.19 mph
what you do rest off the day