The Combine Forum banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
480 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We are removing our 575R factory impeller, we've removed the nuts around the left side impeller access cover, we've removed the collar on the right side impeller bearing. Should it be loose now or are we doing it wrong? Maybe the right side bearing needs removing completely first? We used a ratchet strap as a come-along to apply some pulling force and then yanked on the strap yet too.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,914 Posts
The right bearing has threaded holes in the bearing mount. Thread two metric bolts in it and push against combine frame and that bearing will come off. I suggest some flat plate installed between combine frame and bearing for the bolts to push against so they don't push so hard on the combine sidewall.

You might want a new pulley before reinstall, and most people are unable to save left bearing as they are large and tight to remove.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,940 Posts
The only thing holding it in is the right bearing from your picture. We often use prybars and tire irons around the outside rim of the plate in the picture to get it started. We use a engine hoist to lift up on it as we pull it out, Do not try to save the left bearing and housing. It is about impossible to save and it is best to cut it off and buy a new one. Make sure and check the rotor bearings and elephant ears on the rotor. The elephant ears should have a business card thickness of space or gap between them and the tube or housing. The elephant ears can be hard surfaced back to the original shape if you have a new one to pattern it off of. Once the leading edge gets rounded they do not grab the material as well. I would also install a knife on the dogs tongue at the entrance of the rotors.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
480 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Regarding the left bearing, do you mean the bearing behind the impeller drive pulley? We are planning to leave that pulley & bearing assembled to the impeller and just rebuild the impeller itself to resemble something like a Sunnybrook.

We want to put a knife in, I recently read on another thread, someone put a knife on the cylinder concaves to split the stream/mass before it reached the impeller.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,940 Posts
You only need to take the left bearing off if you are changing the impeller. The wall of the original impeller is paper-thin and will dent with the sunnybrook style. I would put in a sunnybrook if it was me so you have a heavy drum for inertia and something that will not dent on the first plug. . I was the one that put a knife at the back of the main concave inside the existing v and is much higher than the original v. It is a days job to hand fit this but has worked really well.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,940 Posts
What I call the dogs tongue is to the right of the red circle. It is the large tapper rounded piece of metal that splits the material at the entrance to the rotors. You will have to fabricate a knife to go on top of this tongue. Where your red circle is, is the v at the back of the concave. This is where we welded in a much taller v inside the factory v and sharpened it to a knife edge. I have posted pictures in the past on the forum of this. If you send me a private message with your cell number I will try text you some pictures.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top