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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Need help I'm trying to remove my left hand Rotor gear box its leaking oil (looking from the back of the machine) I've slid the coupling across and took the four bolts out the top but it wont come off, Is there a bolt in the spline or do I just pull it off? what holds the rotor shaft up? The gear box seems to have pressure on the top side of it where its bolted, I thought after I took the 4 bolts out that the gearbox would drop a bit but its so tight on the top side. Any help would be great
 

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There is no bolt on the spline. You have to pry the coupler apart because there is a machined area that will hold it up or together even though the bolts are off on the coupler. If I remember right the rotor and gear box will drop once you get the coupler apart. The gear box is quite heavy and a good lift.
 

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Need help I'm trying to remove my left hand Rotor gear box its leaking oil (looking from the back of the machine) I've slid the coupling across and took the four bolts out the top but it wont come off, Is there a bolt in the spline or do I just pull it off? what holds the rotor shaft up? The gear box seems to have pressure on the top side of it where its bolted, I thought after I took the 4 bolts out that the gearbox would drop a bit but its so tight on the top side. Any help would be great
There are dowel pins to align the gearbox that will be quite tight. You will have to pry the gearbox down 1/2 or 3/4" to clear the dowels before you can start pulling it rearward, out of the rotor drive spline.
 

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Thats right Transaxial. I forgot about the dowel pins. I remember you had to pry something apart before it would move. I thought it was the coupler but forgot about the dowel pins. I do remember it was very heavy to handle.
 

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Double check your alignment between the 2 gearboxes when you put it back together. We had a 580 that was taking out bearings and seals on the left gearbox and found the mounts were welded on the cross member crooked. We had to take the dowel pins out, snug the bolts and then align the gearboxes and tighten it up. Had no problems after that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks heaps.... Now to put it but on do I have to time anything or just put it back Thanks
 

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Double check your alignment between the 2 gearboxes when you put it back together. We had a 580 that was taking out bearings and seals on the left gearbox and found the mounts were welded on the cross member crooked. We had to take the dowel pins out, snug the bolts and then align the gearboxes and tighten it up. Had no problems after that.
Interesting bdpolar! I have a 480 that has worn the spline out on 2 of the input shafts and the couplers. (the shaft that drives both gearboxes from the right side). There is obviously a misalignment problem but the old series just uses a splined coupler, not a lovejoy coupler like the 500 and newer series. We drilled the splined coupler for a zerk and I think it helps but is not a good fix. Another case of fine German engineering???? Stupid design. You can't have 2 solid mounted gearboxes without some flex coupler between them. I wondered about a home alignment but thought we would not be able to keep the gearboxes from creeping over time so did not try it. Is your home alignment working ok?
 

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Interesting bdpolar! I have a 480 that has worn the spline out on 2 of the input shafts and the couplers. (the shaft that drives both gearboxes from the right side). There is obviously a misalignment problem but the old series just uses a splined coupler, not a lovejoy coupler like the 500 and newer series. We drilled the splined coupler for a zerk and I think it helps but is not a good fix. Another case of fine German engineering???? Stupid design. You can't have 2 solid mounted gearboxes without some flex coupler between them. I wondered about a home alignment but thought we would not be able to keep the gearboxes from creeping over time so did not try it. Is your home alignment working ok?

We traded the combine on a 590 but it was still fine when it left. We had the lovejoy couplers walking themselves apart, had only 1 rotor turning and took a while to figure out the capacity loss. Kept putting them back together until the seal started leaking then started looking into things and noticed the alignment. It was noticeably out with just a carpenters square as a tool and was easy to lineup, after getting the gearbox lifted into place the rest was easy.
 

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One of my grease nipples was not lined up so I cut a new hole to get to the grease fitting. I wonder how many people actually grease that fitting?
 

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There is a grease fitting on the rotor spline that goes into the rotor gear box. You get to it by standing on your chaff spreaders and looking up for a hole in the rotor tube at the very back before the gear box. If you do not pay attention to this when you put the rotor gear box on the grease fitting will not line up in the hole in the rotor tube. I had this problem and just cut new hole rather than take the gear box off again. If your rotor gear boxes has never been removed then everything should line up. I did not realize there was a fitting there for the first year I owned my machine. It is hard to find.
 

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We just fold the tailboard down as well and jump on the ladder. It still helps if the rotors are phased so you only have to move them once if you do have to at all. 2-3 times a season.
 

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I was wrong. I just greased mine and you fold the tail board down just like Joesixpack said. If the holes are not in the right spot just drill new ones in the tube. It is best to use a grease with at least 2% moly in it. This will help prevent wear on the spline. I use a lithium grease with 2% moly for these fittings, all the pulley tightener bushings, and the rear axle fittings. For the bearings I use a high quality lithium grease with no moly. The other fittings that are not marked are the splines on the unloading auger just behind the top of the cab. You have to take off the two covers to get to them.
 
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