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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Feeder house keeps plugging in heavy wet wheat, still green straw, and getting worse as the straw gets drier.

At first it would plug whenever crop was leaning(flat) towards the combine, and it went under and around the table auger (Claas F540 flex auger header) and made a lump. Stripper bars were set with a huge gap, set them tight, and eliminated the wrapping, and quit plugging for a while.

Then plugged on absolutely nothing, unable to reverse, just slipped the belt. Removed header and tried to reverse with a 5' bar in the feeder chain, it locked right up in each direction with a metallic clunk after only a couple inches of hard fought travel. Eventually broke it loose with the bar and cleaned it out.

Discovered that the backwards bolts were hitting the supports on the underside of the center floor of the feeder house. And hitting hard enough to stop the feeder chain in heavy going, damaging the bolts and the supports, and making lots of noise. Replaced them with shorter bolts( then just now I read on here that they are there on purpose to clean off the sprockets...).
Ran much better without plugging for a while, then started skipping the chain( far right). Under proper tension, then plugging. Lots of material under the top chain on the edges, not sure if it gets there from reversing or from feeding.

There are no guards at the edge of the feeder house entry to keep crop away from the edges, doesn't even look like there ever has been. The 8460's had sheet metal guards both sides and top. I read on here that there should be, or at least "triangles" welded in the bottom corners. Can someone clarify what those should look like, preferably with a picture?

If I add side guards, can I leave the backwards bolts out, or are they still required?

This has the poppet type of slip clutch. Do they wear, and can they be set tighter? Wondering if the clutch slips too easily, causing a minor plug, then when I reverse it, it backfeeds and gets material on top, leading to more troubles the next time, and the next time...

It usually takes multiple attempts back and forth to get the plug out, and sometimes removing the header.

Running very close to 100% engine power all the time. 2 to 4 km/hour, and as high as 2000 bushels per hour, now that I have all the kinks worked out in the rest of the machine, it is handling this tough straw no problem at those rates.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
The sprockets look like new, chains are tight and even, had one slightly bent bar, and straightened it.
The far right chain, even in time, is 1/4" off of straight at the best of times, the sprocket appears to be slightly out of time with the rest. Are they keyed, or hex shaft? Can the shaft be twisted, or key fall out, feels very tight on the shaft.

Note that it must be jumping while reversing, judging by the direction it is off.

Can see where the ends of the bars have been banging on the top gussets a lot.

Someone on a NAT suggests blocking the front of the drum up into corn position, any logic to that?

The second from RHS chain is missing the white plastic block below the sprocket that keeps the chain from coming up too high before it reached the sprocket.

I like Don Boles advice from 2017:
I believe it jumps when reversing.
So...never plug it!
I thought that is what I was trying to solve...
 

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Sorry but I just lost another long post back to you on your 585. I will try again in the morning. I love this forum and the guys and exchange of info but this system is a total POS for posting. I lose at least 1/3 of my posts because it times out I think and if I forget to copy, poof and it is lost in cyberspace. Maybe I am missing something. I am slow at typing.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Sorry but I just lost another long post back to you on your 585. I will try again in the morning. I love this forum and the guys and exchange of info but this system is a total POS for posting. I lose at least 1/3 of my posts because it times out I think and if I forget to copy, poof and it is lost in cyberspace. Maybe I am missing something. I am slow at typing.
Thanks for trying...

Have you tried the back button to see if you can retrieve your post?

I have trouble with that happening on my phone, but on computer I can wait for hours ( it seems) , and it still goes through, if it has been too many hours, I will copy and paste just in case.
 

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Is it an hp feederhouse with the spring tension? I was told at a combine clinic to bolt the tensioner solid and have not had any issue with the chain jumping.
 

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Ok the feeder chain is too loose it’s bowing up enough that the bolts are catching and yes the long ones are there for a reason! They keep the sprockets clean so straw can’t build up and then jump a chain.

Next you need those side shields!!! There should be about a 3”x3” piece of square plate in the bottom corner of each side of the feeder house that more or less continues the stripper bar out so the sides of the chain can’t grab stuff.

That’s it!
 

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We bent and welded up side shields that bolt on. They have to stick out a bit on the bottom so the chain does not rub it. This is one problem we have never had yet.
 

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Ok the feeder chain is too loose it’s bowing up enough that the bolts are catching and yes the long ones are there for a reason! They keep the sprockets clean so straw can’t build up and then jump a chain.

Next you need those side shields!!! There should be about a 3”x3” piece of square plate in the bottom corner of each side of the feeder house that more or less continues the stripper bar out so the sides of the chain can’t grab stuff.

That’s it!

I second this, Our 770 did not have the sideguards and in heavy crop, usuallly slugs made the chain jump forward one cog when it bounced down after installing the side guards it only happened once but that was after a rock went in and bent two slats.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes, HP feeder house. spring tension, set to the indicator on the side by the spring.

What is meant by lock up the spring tension, just remove the spring and put a solid spacer in there, and tension it like the 8460's?

I built the 3 by 3 and added to the corners, will build the entire side shields if necessary or as a winter project.

fabricated a plastic spacer to replace the missing one by the sprocket, it definitely will keep the bolts further from the cross member.

Loosened all the bolts aligned the chains, now they run true.

Replaced the long bolts. Half way through I couldn't even turn the feeder chain with a 5 foot bar, they were working so hard clearing out the accumulated straw, so they do work, had to use the combine to clear the straw out first, then turned easily.

Going to go try it out.
 

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Long bolts should be there. Sprockets are keyed on a hex shaft. They aren't budging. The crossmember that hits the bolts is a joke. I built a roller that nearly eliminates striking.

If a chain ever gets crooked, really, all slats need loosened when it is retimed. Run the chain slowly, then tighten all slats in their straight position.

You know the trick to jump a chain on a sprocket? Hold, tie, install something about the size of the tooth and slowly rotate chain around sprocket. This will jump one tooth. Sockets and other tools work well for this.

Chain misalignment on a Lexion is uncommon. You have a setup or other issue that needs to be dealt with IMO.
 

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Yes, HP feeder house. spring tension, set to the indicator on the side by the spring.

What is meant by lock up the spring tension, just remove the spring and put a solid spacer in there, and tension it like the 8460's?

I built the 3 by 3 and added to the corners, will build the entire side shields if necessary or as a winter project.

fabricated a plastic spacer to replace the missing one by the sprocket, it definitely will keep the bolts further from the cross member.

Loosened all the bolts aligned the chains, now they run true.

Replaced the long bolts. Half way through I couldn't even turn the feeder chain with a 5 foot bar, they were working so hard clearing out the accumulated straw, so they do work, had to use the combine to clear the straw out first, then turned easily.

Going to go try it out.



The 3x3’s might need a bit of the corners cut if you have an HP when it tilts not sure. Check for clearance
 

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What is meant by lock up the spring tension, just remove the spring and put a solid spacer in there, and tension it like the 8460's?
You could put a solid spacer. I just put a couple big washers to clamp the arm to the feederhouse sidewall after setting the tension.
 

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Parts for that year will show a narrow little strip that’s supposed to be the side cover. Don’t buy that, get the bigger side covers for a 700 series. You’ll have to drill your 3x3’s for them to bolt to.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Update. Went only a minute and plugged again. Dropped header before I even tried reversing to see what was going on...

Big rock jammed in front of feeder chain, There was a strip of this quarter that didn't get rolled this spring, and I discovered it too late to roll it, not sure why. So, that one was justified.

Only plugged a few more times after that, and never jumped the chain again.

About dark the belt for the chaff spreader pump smoked and needed changing( no idea why). In the process of replacing, I discovered that the caging nut was tight against the stop on the first feeder house drive belt, not allowing the tensioner to do anything even though it was set right. Set that properly and never plugged again until it got way too tough, so perhaps the belt was slipping just too easily and allowing a wad to pile up and slip the main slip clutch? But I never got any belt slip warning before when it would plug. After fixing that, I now get belt slip warnings occasionally, even though it doesn't slip the clutch, which makes no sense.

And on that note, when I first start the machine after sitting for half hour or more, I get constant belt slip warnings for the first few minutes. Mostly threshing cylinder warnings, or rotor speed, but the RPM on the display doesn't budge. Is this from cold sensors? Gap too wide?
 

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Good question!

Must be under Cebis. But while the separator is running hit the learn no load speeds then it knows where you want them and gives you a percent slip warning.

It’s too bad a seasoned Lexion guy didn’t do a walk around on it so you weren’t dealing with this stuff now.

Also do you know about the 2 tensioners on the left side, I believe shoe first and second stage need to be loosened off a little, tighten the spring to the marker then tighten back up?

The chopper idler in between second and third stage has stoppers that need to be bolted tight after its tensioned so they can’t whip.

Grease the front rotor bearings at night when they are hot and I do them turning.

The bearings for the feeder chain front drum are a bit undersized. Stick your hand in there and feel for Heat. If both are cool you’ll be fine if one is pretty warm it’s timed out and a rain day project.

If for some reason you have electrical trouble and can’t operate functions you can manually override everything at the valve stack up in the engine compartment.

Those side covers, ask for the ones for a 780 with a HP feederhouse.
 

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The variable speed drives are hydraulically adjusted. The speeds will vary some, and increase as the machine gets warmed up. If the weather turns cold, or parked overnight, some of these speeds will slow down next time you start the machine. It will then give an alarm, notifying you that each these items aren't turning as fast as they are set in CEBIS. When you restart the machine, adjust each speed and it will adjust it accordingly and the alarm will quit.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Next question,

Contour was working great, could set it at any pressure I wanted, well off the ground, to pushing mud.

Now it will only work on the ground or down from there. If I pick it up to leave a few inches of stubble, set it, as soon as it beeps it drops to the ground hard. Works in most places, but have some really sticky gumbo that has to be slightly lighter ground pressure. Any thoughts?
 

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Are you setting it on the right side or left side of the button? The right is for cutting off the ground. The left is for cutting on the ground. What type of head are you using? There is also two presets so sometimes a guy can accidentally be on the other preset. Once you set it go into the header icon on the screen and adjust the height or fine tune it with the plus and minus key. The same with the reel speed.
 
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