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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got a 590r with 42ft honeybee seems to struggle in our winter wheat. 75-80bu 15% moisture Motor is always at 90% or greater. Sample is clean and losses are low its the motor that is holding the machine back. I am combining 1200-1400 bushel an hr at best. Every time I creep up near the 1400 bushel mark its at 100% engine load. I even have to slow down when unloading on the go. These are tough conditions this year with higher humidity and low temps. The winter wheat is also lodged so Im taking a bit of straw in. The motor has new fuel and air filters. Would this be normal in tough conditions? Should I just remove the intensive threshing segments? Heres my settings

Pre concave- small grains with keystock
Disawning plates- open
Intensive threshing segments installed
cyl. speed- 850
rotor speed- 990
concave clearance-14
fan- 1100
rotor covers closed
 

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We always run intensive threshing segments for all our crops. They will take some power but help with threshing. We run the small grain aps grates with no key stock. Keystock Aps grates and intensive threshing segments may be an over kill unless it is very hard threshing. Make sure your rotor covers are open in wheat. The honey bee head is a high power user compaired to other heads. Evrything is hydraulic dirve on a honey bee and hydrailic drives are less efficient than direct drives.
 

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So basically, your complaining your combine can't lose enough grain?
Without being there I don't think there is anything wrong, it simply takes that sort of power under the conditions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So Lexion isnt a very good seeder? Lol. Not used to motor being the limiting factor. Coming from the 9600s where I was tossing seed off the walkers way before the motor pulled down. New combine to me so just making sure Im not running around half capacity. Especially with the 4 hr harvesting window we have every day. Ill probably pull the threshing segments. Thanks
 

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I agree, we have used our threshing segments only 0nce in 14 yrs of having Lexions and I never install them anymore.

ndfarmer, try a case or JD rotary combine and see how well they do powerwise in the same conditions as you are in;), I think you would be pleasantly surprised how well your new to you combine is working for you. We switched from a 595 to a 780 this year and with almost 100 more hp I thought we would never run out of power...was I wrong, the 780's have been on their knee every time we've had them out this year:D. 80-103 % power all day long. Yesterday for 2 hrs we were in some reasonably dry conditions from 4 - 6 o'clock and we only used 60 -80% power before we threw over too much but then later back to 100% and yes fuel usage changes accordingly
 

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Definitely get rid of the ITS bars. Install a blanking plate and 2 filler plates. Install 10mm wire APS grates and you will have the machine set up to work in almost all crops. We set our concaves a little tighter than the factory spec and use this set up on all machines.
 

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Wouldn't hurt to check your turbo boost pressure. I have seen the waste gate fail several times on the 590s and cause a low power problem
 

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Definitely get rid of the ITS bars. Install a blanking plate and 2 filler plates. Install 10mm wire APS grates and you will have the machine set up to work in almost all crops. We set our concaves a little tighter than the factory spec and use this set up on all machines.
Yes, you can buy a plate that covers, from the underneath, the area I call the pre-concave, between the APS grates and the main concave. It is not very fun to install.

You can also buy filler/cover strips for the main concave, usually installed in the front of the main concave. I feel these reduce the "threshy-ness" of the keystock concave, as it reduces the bar height against the crop.

Tingleyshc, what spec do you recommend the APS grate dimension? If 7mm is the minimum for the main concave clearance, what do you use for the APS?
When our 740 was new, I plugged the APS several times. After installing a roundbar concave, I increased APS clearance and haven't plugged it since IIRC.
 

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Sounds normal to me in those conditions. Nothing else would likely be doing any better / more without excess loss.

Check you rear impeller and make sure it's not worn. If it's a late enough model you can install the impeller wear plates on the vanes. If not, you will need a new impeller with the bolt holes for the wear plates.

Also, if running a draper make sure than your side belts aren't running too fast. Slow them down until you see a "V" pattern going into your feed drum rather than one large concentrated swath. Made a huge power difference on mine.
 
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