[jacobb]

98 r72, with clutches engaged and blower fan will run around 12 volts all day, whenever i put the unloader out it drops to 11.5 and stauys there until unloader comes back in. At night when i have the lights on cant run the blower motor or the voltage goes around 11 and the buzzer goes off. Have ran it like this through 2000 acres of beans, have checked voltage to some of the solenoids, alwayus seems to be a .5 volt higher than what guage shows. But still does not seem like everything is charging quite right. Do not understand or know electronics or the system gleaner uses, just wondering if anyone has had these same problems. 99 r62 with similiar problems. New batteries new alternators.

thanks

jb

 

[jbirnsch]

Check all ground points. A corroded ground at the battery terminal could be your problem especailly since you mention that the system voltage drops. Make sure they are clean and not mounted on painted or rusty surfaces. Check soilnoids for excessive heat under load. If you can't hold on to them they are likely the culprit. Check for hot wires under load. This is a sign of a bad connection or excessive load.

 

[nddan]

The first thing you will notice when system voltage is down is the auto unloader swing will trigger the low voltage light. This is because the power that takes over the swing function for you is powered up by the same power lead that is feeding the voltmeter and low voltage light in the overhead. First I would check voltage at battery, alternator output post, and battery positive. I would perform this test after running engine at about half throttle and all lights and cab fan on for about 15 minutes. These voltages should all be very close to 14 volts and within about .1 volt of each other. If all checks out hear I would next check voltage at circuit breakers fastened under radiator just to inside of tailing elevator area. Feel for any heat at connections for this would indicate poor connection and voltage drop. Clean all connections and maximum voltage drop accross breaker switches is .2 volt. Next check the voltage at master solinoid inside right door in side counsel. This is the solinoid that clicks when you turn the key on. It will normally run quit warm. It is acceptable to have .2 volt drop accross this solinoid. A quick check for this solinoid would be short accross the two large terminals while watching overhead voltmeter. If you notice the voltage jump up in overhead you have located your major problem. Also a good idea to check the grounds. Follow negative off of battery to be sure eyelets are clean and secured well. Check the ground strap under cab that goes between cab and the frame. I think you will locate your problem with this but if not report your findings and maybe we'll have another suggestion. Good luck

 

[jacobb]

dan

12.32-12.34 on all the batteries
12.32 on alternator post
12.32 on starter

after running 15 mins, looks like my alternator may not be charging. I added a semi truck altenator when i suspected the old one being bad, im going to take the old one to get it tested today and see what happens. Batteries are brand new, changed the batteries to the female nut design rather than the old clamp, so cables are in good shape as far as i can see.

 

[jbirnsch]

Take the back shell of the alternator. There should be 2 small holes in the back shell. Use 2 short pieces of fence wire to hold the brushes in. I bet is is plugged full of dust and dirt. The dust and dirt hold up the brushes and prevent them from contacting the commutator. This happened on our C2 years back.

Jason

 

[scott]

check ground cables between cab and frame and engine to frame, this has been issue, shouldn't loose more than half a volt between engine and cab. alternator should show 13.5 to 14 volts, everything off, just engine running, engage machine and feeder, what are volts, all lights on what volts do you have, cab blower on, volts now, what do you have for a alternator, how many amp, scott

 

[jacobb]

Leece Neville 160 amp

Voltages off altenator:
1500 RPM
13.15
12.92 sep
12.90 hdr and sep
12.83 hdr sep and blower
12.48 hdr sep blwr lights
12.38 hdr sep blwr lights unl. engaged

Behind tailings
13.18
12.92 sep

Main Solenoid
13.02
12.72 Sep
12.49 sep and hdr
11.98 sep hdr lights
11.77 sep hdr lights blower
11.60 sep hdr lights blwr unl eng.

Main solenoid was warm, but could easy hold on to it.

 

[nddan]

Alternator is starting out 1 volt low. I don't know for sure on the Leece Neville but I would bet there is a voltage adjusting screw on it. Maybe you move a screw to another position to up the voltage. I don't think the .8 drop from alternator to cab with full load is to far out of line especially if you are checking currant at switched side of main solinoid. Bump the throttle to operating RPM and you will likely see less drop threwout full range of load. I'd get the voltage at at alternator first and I believe your troubles will be over. We've had zero trouble with Leece Neville but the Delcos are another story. Rebuilt 105amp Delco and the parts for them are very questionable. 130 amp Delcos that became standard in about '95 are much better. I was happy to see the Leece Nevilles. I have to tell the guys with Delcos that they must have batterys charged back up full before installing rebuilt or run the risk of allmost imediate repeat failure. I have suggested to run very minimum load and or unhook a battery or two if they must stick rebuilt on right away to keep going.

By the way Jacob. Did you get feeding fixed?

 

[jacobb]

i dont belive there is anything like that on it. I will try to find instructions and check it out, but i dont remember anything. I dont know for sure if its the right thing to do but i am running a ground cable to the batteries to ground the altenator, this leece neville has like 3-5 different bolts sticking out, where the one i took off the machine before just had one. Still trying to get around to checking them.

Tightened up the back feed chain and havent plugged her since. However the beans went from making 60 to 20-40, but its all double crop behind wheat, so there is quite a bit of material, but seems like im able to push it a little more. Still dont think everything is quite right. Im right at 1000 hours on the machine, I think i will put in new feed chains this winter and im tempted to go to the 4 strand as i plan on keeping it for and running it another 1000. So hopefully then i can figure out exactly what I have installed and what I need to change. I think the floor kit was put on with 500 some thresher hours so that kit probably has around 500 hours on it.

 

[scott]

if its like older leece neville alts, look on the back of alt where regulator is mounted, might be silicon over it you will have to clean out, use a pick and be careful, use a flat screwriver and set, and silicon, scott.

 

[scott]

is alternator grounded, don't rememeber for sure, alt has to be grounded, scott.

 

[nealj]

I had the same problem with a N-7 and chased my tale trying to figure it out until my alt. repair guy suggested I test individual bat. with a hydrometer. I found a bad cell in 1 bat. that turned out to be older than the other two anyway. Replaced battery and solved problem.

 

[jacobb]

got it fixed today finally, my leece neville altenator was putting out only 50-70 amps. it could not keep up at night with the lights and blower. Put on a reman delco 130 amp, and works great now, not sure why the leece neville will not work, but oh well. Thanks for all replies.