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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
has anyone ever bent impeller behind cylinder? Plugged machine with green stemmed beans. Slipped cylinder belt. Put cylinder in low, loosened impeller drive belt & run slug thru. Retighten impeller belt, started separator , it slipped belt & finally went thru. Now machine vibrates real bad. Teck says stub shaft on impeller usually breaks before it bends. Teck replaced stub shaft , still wobbles. Impeller is bent. Guess that's not the best way to remove slug.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Got new impeller today. Run some beans & some times something seems to be wrapping beater or back feeding. About dark beans got tough , machine pulled down & broke impeller belt. Any idea what's the cause
 

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Rdb,
Could you give us a few more details on your settings? Something is wrong? Have you checked all four corners of your concave?The far right rear corner likes to drop by the cam. Try not to run concave beyond 18-20mm in green stem beans as the little V at the rear of the concave then falls away and the impeller gets overworked. Goodluck! Tiger
 

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I would check the wear and clearance of the elephant ears at the start of the rotor. If they are wore they will not be grabbing the material from the impeller. They can be adjusted and should be set as close as possible to the bar stock on the rotor side of the rotor bearing support plates. Mine had a quite a bit of wear after 700 hours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Tried differ settings, 530-620 rpm 19-25 cyl. 100-200 rpms rotors. 660hrs separator .i think it did litter better @20mm. When I get it unplugged this morning I'll check rotors & concave. Thanks Guys!
 

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I did mine when I put in the sunnybrook cylinder this summer and had the impeller out. The only two other possible ways is through the grain tank inspection cover or dropping the rotor pan and removing the first section of grate or tin below. This is the first time I checked mine and I had significant wear in the leading corner that grabbs the material. I repaced them. I will be keeping a eye on this in the future because I think it can have a effect on feeding the rotors. Someone else may be able to comment better on the best route to get at this with everything intact.
 

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Tried differ settings, 530-620 rpm 19-25 cyl. 100-200 rpms rotors. 660hrs separator .i think it did litter better @20mm. When I get it unplugged this morning I'll check rotors & concave. Thanks Guys!
Surely that's a misprint. 100-200 rpm rotors??? They need to be spinning at least as fast as the cylinder and we run them usually significantly faster in every crop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
GM, I meant to say 100-200rpm faster then cyl. Got in bin this morning, right side of impeller plunged tighter than ---- . Finally rained so had to put it in shed. Going after belt & will somehow get plug out when I come back. Rains quit, 3tenths. Hasn't rained for over month.
 

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You can access the front ones simply through the grain tank, but it isn't fun. You will want to pull the cylinder drive bolts to seperate the two mechanisms. You will likely need to pull the rotors to repair any other item farther back than the front wear items.
I changed all the rotor wear strips last winter on my 480 by dropping the rotor grates. Had to remove the return pan out the back. I reversed all grates before installing them. Was advised by the tech that it was easier than pulling the rotors but since that have changed my opinion of that. It would be a lot easier to just pull the rotors. Maybe even to change the "elephant ears" on the rotors. It seems that these combines need to have this major rebuild work done in the off season when we have a week or month to do all the surprise things that come up when it is all apart. There are a lot of wear items inside that definatly need attention to keep the machine working properly and are not easy to access unless the rotors, impeller, aps etc. are out. Does not help you much now in the middle of harvest but these are complex machines and need tlc in the off season.
 

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I just remembered and should clarify...

I removed the front elephant ears after removing original rotor bearing plate. I reinstalled them but didn't tighten them or adjust them until I put the new style "flow kit" bearing plates back in. Then, I painfully adjusted the four elephant ear wear strips to the back of rotor bearing hangers and tightened them down to where they didn't rub.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
SK
Not much room for chain saw, but I did try a cordless hacksaw. Made a hook to pull out slug Teck coming tomorrow to pull rotors & see what we find. Going to install intensive feed kit. He says they've installed kit on some other machines & helps in green stem beans. Dealer did an inspection on machine before harvest & didn't find to much wear on rotor ears.
 

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The plugging issues sound very familiar, and the flow kit will definitely help. I have never cut soybeans, but I have cut plenty of peas and lentils with weeds. It is essentially the same as these green stem beans I keep reading about. Anyways, I still had some plugging issues this year with the flow kit installed, but my impeller wear kit was one year older than the flow kit. A new set of wear strips fixed the plugging issues again, for the most part. I was thinking a my machine would need a new impeller this winter, but I think I will be trading it instead. The flow kit won't make your machine completely bomb-proof, but a brand new impeller+flow kit+impeller wear kit will certainly make a noticeable difference, to say the least!
 
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