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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 750 lexions are really hard starting after being stored for the winter. Batteries were fully charged with battery tenders on them and power shut off. I even primed the fuel pump with the hand pump by fuel filter this season but still had to crank the **** out of them to get them to start. :mad: Engine starts hitting on a couple cylinders then I have to keep it going with the starter to get the rest of them to go. I had dealer out and mechanics just cranked the **** out of it like that to start it. :confused: I am afraid this is not good on the starter running it that long. Anyone else have this same problem?
 

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I'll bet you put it away with very little fuel in the tank?
Had the same problem then I put it away full and it started right up the next year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
2011 so tier 3 emissions and no lift pump. I think tier 4 had the lift pump to fuel the regen cycle.
Don, yes I have been putting them away with very little fuel in the tanks each year. I will try parking them with full tanks this season and give that a try.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'll bet you put it away with very little fuel in the tank?
Had the same problem then I put it away full and it started right up the next year.
Thank you Don

I parked both of the 750s full of fuel last fall in the shed and I started them both this evening to move them and both machines popped right off. :6:

Butler machinery has thrown parts at the one trying to fix it. They even sent out mechanics this first season when they wouldn't start after sitting in the shed.

"Must store full of fuel from now on!" Note to self:54:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
A full tank helps with the starting and also keeps the condensation down in the tank.
Thank you. I parked them both full of fuel and they popped right off. Is this a secret hidden trick installed in every new lexion to secure the butler techs a job every fall? They've been to my farm twice trying to fix starting problem and one machine was in their shop trying to fix starting problem.

Fuel of fuel! Problem solved:6:
 

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I don't see how check valves in the filter housing and a transfer pump could not fix a C13 unless a line as a pinhole in it. I've had a couple rotor belts slap the hard plastic line. Would be something to check. The heui engines are a different story but a 13 shouldn't have to be full and hot to start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I don't see how check valves in the filter housing and a transfer pump could not fix a C13 unless a line as a pinhole in it. I've had a couple rotor belts slap the hard plastic line. Would be something to check. The heui engines are a different story but a 13 shouldn't have to be full and hot to start.

I agree lexionman575, The c 13 should fire off right away. There is no reason for this. Mine were stored over the winter with no separator hours the first season and would not start the next season. Everything was new and not used. I've been complaining to my dealer about this from day one until they started charging me for parts and labor to not fix the problem. Then I turned to the forum and was able to start them for the first time effortlessly today.
 

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I agree lexionman575, The c 13 should fire off right away. There is no reason for this. Mine were stored over the winter with no separator hours the first season and would not start the next season. Everything was new and not used. I've been complaining to my dealer about this from day one until they started charging me for parts and labor to not fix the problem. Then I turned to the forum and was able to start them for the first time effortlessly today.

My 590R with the C13 has been a problem to start all along. The full fuel tank helps a lot but I spent 1 1/2 days trying to get it going after filter changes one year. It was the check valve in the final filter head, the big hex plug close to the engine block. Looked like a little piece of black plastic , maybe from the fuel tank manufacturing, holding the valve open. Started right up after fixing the leaking check valve. Have had several "offers" by dealers to replace the fuel pump on the left front of the gear case but have not done it yet. Someone before me plumbed a 12V pump into the supply line right after the primary filter. It is not hooked to power on the combine but can be hooked to power for bleeding but has never seemed to be as effective as I had hoped. Does anyone have the total solution?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
My 590R with the C13 has been a problem to start all along. The full fuel tank helps a lot but I spent 1 1/2 days trying to get it going after filter changes one year. It was the check valve in the final filter head, the big hex plug close to the engine block. Looked like a little piece of black plastic , maybe from the fuel tank manufacturing, holding the valve open. Started right up after fixing the leaking check valve. Have had several "offers" by dealers to replace the fuel pump on the left front of the gear case but have not done it yet. Someone before me plumbed a 12V pump into the supply line right after the primary filter. It is not hooked to power on the combine but can be hooked to power for bleeding but has never seemed to be as effective as I had hoped. Does anyone have the total solution?
I'm going to check that check valve transaxial. My dealer hasn't mentioned this once. They've tried something different on one of my machines the last three seasons, but still no fix. Or maybe it is just job security;). I've given my annual donation to the cause. I still can't believe claas didn't step up and fix this under warranty. Instead dealer sent out two mechanics the first season with new combines and no separator hours armed with either and battery chargers! I remember watching them and thinking those poor starters, I wonder what those are going to cost me? Really! I just paid you to crank the s**t out of them.

I do like the idea of an electric prime pump. That gets old pumping the old school hand plunger when changing filters. I would like something like my john Deere 4830 sprayer. I change fuel filters turn on the ignition key and let the fuel pump run to fill the filters and it purges out all the air and the machine fires up with first hit of the key.
 

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I'm going to check that check valve transaxial. My dealer hasn't mentioned this once. They've tried something different on one of my machines the last three seasons, but still no fix. Or maybe it is just job security;). I've given my annual donation to the cause. I still can't believe claas didn't step up and fix this under warranty. Instead dealer sent out two mechanics the first season with new combines and no separator hours armed with either and battery chargers! I remember watching them and thinking those poor starters, I wonder what those are going to cost me? Really! I just paid you to crank the s**t out of them.

I do like the idea of an electric prime pump. That gets old pumping the old school hand plunger when changing filters. I would like something like my john Deere 4830 sprayer. I change fuel filters turn on the ignition key and let the fuel pump run to fill the filters and it purges out all the air and the machine fires up with first hit of the key.

Yes, I agree, it really sucks paying a tech $150/hr to sit there and overheat your starter:38: I had thought of that myself! but chose to pay someone that should know how do something more intelligent.


It has been suggested several times that I change the mechanical fuel pump on the left front corner of the engine. It would be a gear or vane pump driven off the timing gears. Why wouldn't they put a pressure gauge on one of the quick couplers already on the filter housing??? What pressure should that pump produce at cranking speed? and at idle speed? I could not get the inline 12V pump to force fuel to bleed at the filter housing. Seems like it can't push fuel past the mechanical pump, even when cranking the engine. The mechanical pump should be able to suck a little air that may accumulate just below itself but it seems like it does not. The full fuel tank seems to be the first thing to always do before attempting to work on these fuel systems. The other big plug on top of the filter housing (about 1" hex) seems to be a bleeder and lets lots of air out of the system when pumping the hand pump. The one closest to the block is the check valve, the one farther out is the bleeder. The techs at my place also bled air out of a fitting on the back side (hopper side) of the engine. I still do not understand why the 12V pump does not push air and fuel past the mechanical pump and the filter to bleed all the air out. My understanding is that in the open rail system there is lots of fuel bypassing to tank and should be easy to restart after service. But there must be some kind of a pressure regulating device to maintain operating pressure in the system that supplies fuel to the injectors. Where is that? If we could release that system pressure to zero, we should be able to push fuel/air out of the whole system with any of the 3 pumps. Just a thought.


catman I believe most of these Lexions are difficult starting but could there be some little thing that makes ours worse than average?


Good luck. I was just down to Minot on the weekend and the crops are looking very nice there. You are going to need to get those Lexions running soon!!
 
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