The Combine Forum banner
1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We're putting a new concave in our 7720 along with a few other things. We're thinking about putting rasp bars in also but don't know if we should put chrome or just the regular bars in? How much longer do the chrome ones last as compared the the regular? What about concaves? Are Loewen concaves better the OE John Deere?
I'm also looking for cylinder covers. These are the pieces of sheet metal that are above the cylinder and beater. My JD dealer said they are no longer available. If I can't find any, I guess I'm gonna have to either make or patch the ones that are in the combine.
Are the false floor plates in the feeder house necessary? I talked to one guy and he said his combine doesn't have them.
What grade of steel are the wear plates made of on the feeder house frame? Ours are getting pretty thin and I would like to replace them before the chain starts cutting into the feeder house frame. I would think they would be just regular steel and not anything too hard. If they were too hard, it would seem that the chain would wear and not the wear plates.
Any help or info. would be appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
530 Posts
Well friend, First off, I would absolutley use a Loewen concave, far better setup that Deere, I had 25000 + acres of dirty hard wheat ran across my last Loewen in a 9600 when I finally sold the machine, and it was still relativley flat across the middle, surprisingly.
Next, Depending on acreage you harvest, I usually go about 3200-3600 acres per machine per season and replace the rasp bars every season simply because they are at the wear point in which they look OK but will not cut another 3000+ the next season without needing to be replaced. I have to use Chrome bars to make it through the season without any bad samples.
Not sure about the cylinder and beater covers availability but I have been into a 7720 as well that needed these parts and I ended up bending and forming peices I needed and pushed them up inside under the originals and skip welding them in place.
You dont need the false floor plates, most late model machines dont run them you can see both sets of slats from the top door. Most of the old ones crack and the chain gets ahold of them and rips them out anyway. If your in that far check the feeder house frame for cracks too in the corners. Huge problem with an old 7720 with 24ft header years ago.
I used plow steel of the chain return runners. They wont wear your chain any sooner than mild steel flat stock. I was able to get two seasons on the plow steel runners as opposed to one season on mild 2" flat. So long as your chain stays in adjustment and you dont loose any rear shaft bearings.
Good luck sir.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for all the information davedan, you answered all my questions.
One more questoin. How well would a 7720 handle a 844 corn header?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
530 Posts
Im not familiar with the 844 heads, but I would have to say it depends on your crop condition, moisture,climate,yield,etc. Am I wrong to guess this is an 8 row corn head? If so, I wouldnt expect much ground speed, depending on if your runnin a titanII I guess is also important.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top