If the reading is normal why do you say the rotor cuts out due to control pressure issues?
Did dealer run a gauge into cab to watch "physical" control pressure on a mechanical gauge- is that what you meant? If sensor is good the next thing is the control pressure regulation cartridge could be bad. If cartridge is confirmed being good run combine at operating temperature with transmission in neutral gear and 4wd off- if you have it. Then watch pressure and do the following steps:
1. engage thresher and run at speed- read psi
2. engage feeder- read psi
3. slowly move hydro lever to full forward (with transmission in neutral gear-4wd off)- read psi
4. engage unloader- read psi
As you progress from step 1 to 4 leave each system running and engine at wide open throttle.
If the cartridge is working properly and there are no internal system leaks the psi will drop and come back and level off provided cartridge is working properly. It will drop slightly with each system you engage. It is very important that this test be done when oil is at operating temp.
If there is a problem this will help narrow down were it is and if it is acting up- the alarm will appear. An internal leak in any one of the clutch packs that run either the thresher/feeder/chopper/unloader or a hydro drive system leak can cause a low psi alarm when the control system hyd pump can't keep up with the oil demand from the "leak".
Could also simply be a restricted filter or low oil level in the pto housing but you have checked those already right?
Dealer may have to connect a flowrator into each system rotor/feeder/chopper/unloader to narrow down as a last resort.
I have had problems with the sensor wiring rubbing the insulation off of the wires inside of the plastic wire loom. This usually occurs 4-6 inches back into the harness from the sensor, then I guess the wiring starts contacting each other, then it will give a problem intermittently. Just peel the loom off of the control pressure sensor wiring back toward the PTO gearbox, and I'll bet there are some nice straight lines worn into the insulation.
I had a problem with the control pressure on our 2005 8010. Everything checked out ok. Dealer said some machine were a little low, and showed me how to turn it up. I played with it, and finally got it set. I no longer have a problem. In fact when the machine, and oil is cold it has a high pressure alarm sometimes. As soon as the oil warms up it goes away.
If you are getting an error on the display that the pto control pressure is invalid, I would definately peel the loom off of the harness that goes to the sensor, I have had 2 different machines, one an '04, and one an '06 both at about 1000 eng hrs have this problem.
we have a 06 8010 and had the same problem for the third season now , it finally got so bad it may shut down every 5 or 10 min. and tried alot of dif. things until 2 days ago the monitor showed an error on the pto sensor , we replaced the sensor,, finished the field and had no problems for a total of 2 hours before it started to rain,,,, again,,, sooo we think and hope it finally fixed the bad control pressure problem,,, problably not your peoblem , but i thought i would just put it out there for others to know also
You need to have your dealer flow rate it as mentioned above. They should know the whole procedure step by step it will lead you to the problem 99% of the time. To me it sounds like the o-rings in the rotor cvt. good luck.
What would it mean if the pressure drops every time another clutch is engaged. With no clutches engaged pressure will be 320 at high idle, turn separator on 290, feeder house on 270. If idle down with separator on pressure will drop to 230-250.
Low pump flow, stuck regulator or most likely a stuck filter bypass. Remove the small steel line from the control pump filter and cap the fittings to see if the problem goes away. If so remove the filter head and polish up the popet and bore.
Make sure you blow out the breather on top of the PTO gearbox. I was getting the error message too, along with low pressure readings. Cleaned out the breather and I had all the pressure I needed and then some. I even had to turn it down a little.
Ok well I was cutting beans tonight. All the sudden I get a high control pressure alarm. I keep cutting, and it goes away. Then I get a low pressure alarm. It goes away. I t does this for about 5 mins. as I mess with different things. At this time control pressure is at 230 and PTO Lube pressure is at 43. After this the head and separator shuts off. Pressure goes up. I started cutting and it does it again. This time I stop and open the door to get out, and I hear this loud screeching. I shut off the combine, and get out to look around. I smell hyd. fluid but don't see any. I check the PTO dipstick it is dry. I send for some fluid, and continue looking for the leak. I finally see the rear wheel with oil on it. It was puddled in the rim on the inside, and the outside. I filled the reservoir up and moved the hydro handle for and aft with the trans in neutral, and 4wd off 3 times. I topped it off, and cut beans back to the other side of the field in 2wd. No more leaks. Control pressure stayed at 279-284 psi while cutting beans. PTO lube pressure stayed at 53 psi. Oh one last thing the hoses going to the wheel motor were dry. Just the rim was wet. I have a few questions for you techs......
1. What seals are blown?
2. How big of a job is it to fix it?
3. Can I replace seals, or do I have to replace the whole motor?
4. Can I keep going in 2wd without messing up anything?
4. Is that control/lube pressure normal?
The control pressure when cold trips the high pressure alarm. After it warms up it drops down and the high alarm goes away. Is there something else wrong or is this normal? I was afraid to crank up the pressure more because of this.
the rotor cvt the feeder cvt the uloading clutch the chopper and the hydro are all on control pressure the way to narrow it down is to turn all the functions on and the start shuting them of one by one to see when the control psi comes back up or what happens. What year of machine is it there are newer seals out there that we are not having any trouble with they are a kevlir seal i have seen one of the control pressure adjustment relief valve go bad and that would spike the control pressure and blow the sender right off the machine so just watch what you are doing and i think that you will get it figured out
Update.....Well We called Mudhog. They said not to run it that you could make it worse. A new motor from case is $14,000. From Mud hog it is $12,000. They said if I bring it to them they will rebuild it for $4,500. So we took it off and took it to them. They started on it when we got there 7 am this morning. It was done by 2 pm. They are a great bunch of guys. My hats off to them. Thanks guys.
We're still having problems with our control pressure. Part of it has gotten fixed - the wiring harness was tied down to one of the steel hydraulic lines. Apparently the static electricity from the line was screwing up the signal to the control pressure sensor.
The pressure reading from the monitor has stabilized some, but we are still getting low pressure while running. Normal operating pressure for us with everything running down the row in corn is in the 255-270 psi range. Yes we have turned up the regulator. I don't want to turn it up anymore cause the pressure gets above 360 when everything is off. When I engage the rotor it will drop from 315 to about 275 then come back up to about 290. When I engage the feeder it drops to around 220-230 then will come up to around 255-270. Hydro and unload auger drop it 5-10 psi but then come back to where it was. I have to be running the combine at 1300 rpm to engage rotor/feeder otherwise pressure drops way too much.
Combine shuts us down once in awhile, and last night we had lots of trouble getting the feeder to engage. Sometimes it would say Feeder ETR Clutch Valve Error when we try to engage the feeder. I may try to run a feeder enagement calibration with the head not connected and see if that helps. Have had it to the dealer twice now but apparently it's not doing it when they flow test everything. Although they did come out yesterday and tested with a mechanical gauge and the control pressure dipped to 200 psi when we engage the rotor/feeder.
I guess the next question is what seals could be leaking internally in the rotor/feeder system? Just the clutch packs? It would have to be the clutch pack for the rotor/feeder right? Or could it be any of the clutch packs? Thanks for any help you can give.