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anyone know how to make an 8010 work in high moisture corn
8010
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We run between 27 and 35 percent yields run between 190 and 240
Do you have the round bar concaves? These are supposed to help reduce concave plugging in high moisture corn. Less plugging should give you less rotor loss.
I am becoming convinced that in corn the 7010/8010 needs some straight bars on the back of the rotor in order to reduce the rotor loss. These bars probably reduce the capacity of the machine in other crops when using a 40' head on the machine.
I figure this is why Case does not offer it that way from the factory.
This is just my guess. I have been thinking about buying a 7010 so I have been researching into what would be the best setup.
I am becoming convinced that in corn the 7010/8010 needs some straight bars on the back of the rotor in order to reduce the rotor loss. These bars probably reduce the capacity of the machine in other crops when using a 40' head on the machine.
I figure this is why Case does not offer it that way from the factory.
This is just my guess. I have been thinking about buying a 7010 so I have been researching into what would be the best setup.
Why doesn't it work? To much loss? Or not enough capacity?
Our neighbor does a lot of high moisture corn and gets along good. We always do a little bit to get the hogs fresh corn asap every fall. But we normally don't do any over 25-27%M.
I am not sure how his 8010 would differer from my 7010 but we have Kuchar grates and they work great. Kuchar or round bar grates are a must in high moisture, high yielding corn.
Our neighbor does a lot of high moisture corn and gets along good. We always do a little bit to get the hogs fresh corn asap every fall. But we normally don't do any over 25-27%M.
I am not sure how his 8010 would differer from my 7010 but we have Kuchar grates and they work great. Kuchar or round bar grates are a must in high moisture, high yielding corn.
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1,249 Posts
year of combine? how is it set up? settings FT
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this is an 06' machine we are running 4 round bars and have the first three vanes retarded. there is more corn on the ground than you have time to count we also have deep tooth corn chaffer on top and 1 5/8 close slat on the bottom. all loss is from the middle to the right side.
Are your losses from the sieves or the rotor?
-Since you say the loss is heavier on the RH side, I'm guessing it's sieve losses. Working on that assumption, try moving the pinch point over to the RH a little bit. This will force the corn to spread more evenly over the cleaning system.
-If your loss is from the rotor, you may have to switch the rear rotor modules to Large Wire (LW) modules and add straight separator bars over both rear modules.
Make sure you're not getting corn in the fan. This will really limit the air to the rest of the cleaning system and throw a lot of grain out the back. 90% of the time grain in the fan is caused by the pre-sieve being open too far.
Start with the pre-seive set to 5/8 inch (5th notch)
Start with the upper seive set to 3/4 inch
Start with the lower seive set to 5/8 inch
Fan speed 980-1150 rpm.
Don't be afraid to do a kill stall to check the settings. Just make absolutely sure you're buckled into the seat when you turn the switch off. It's one of the fastest stops you'll ever see equipment make short of running into an immovable object.
-Since you say the loss is heavier on the RH side, I'm guessing it's sieve losses. Working on that assumption, try moving the pinch point over to the RH a little bit. This will force the corn to spread more evenly over the cleaning system.
-If your loss is from the rotor, you may have to switch the rear rotor modules to Large Wire (LW) modules and add straight separator bars over both rear modules.
Make sure you're not getting corn in the fan. This will really limit the air to the rest of the cleaning system and throw a lot of grain out the back. 90% of the time grain in the fan is caused by the pre-sieve being open too far.
Start with the pre-seive set to 5/8 inch (5th notch)
Start with the upper seive set to 3/4 inch
Start with the lower seive set to 5/8 inch
Fan speed 980-1150 rpm.
Don't be afraid to do a kill stall to check the settings. Just make absolutely sure you're buckled into the seat when you turn the switch off. It's one of the fastest stops you'll ever see equipment make short of running into an immovable object.
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1,249 Posts
too many round bars tilt the seive use large wire in the front, only one or two round bars as needed to stop hair pinning start with left rear
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I talked to my neighbor, they've run NH for years but he, like me, can't remember the procedure unless he was sitting in the cab. Sorry.
He also tells me there was a way to do previous models, just not through the monitor.
Also there is no automatic brake feature on TR's.
By the way that, in motorcycle terms, is known as a "brakee".
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Don
He also tells me there was a way to do previous models, just not through the monitor.
Also there is no automatic brake feature on TR's.
By the way that, in motorcycle terms, is known as a "brakee".
Don
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664 Posts
it says right in our tr98 manual to just turn off the key to do a kill stall. Its not hard on the machine at all if you arnt over-riding the thresher.
and yes, i dont like the brakes on when key is off. I was moving down the road and our tractor had a problem and died, it almost put me through the window
and yes, i dont like the brakes on when key is off. I was moving down the road and our tractor had a problem and died, it almost put me through the window
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561 Posts
Tr 98 did not lock the brakes as their park brakes are manual. New gen New Holland machine just press the + - keys on the console and it will go into a kill stall., ex cuts fuel to engine and leaves the seperator clutch on so the machine comes to a halt when the engine stops. Axial flows do not have a kill stall feature. WLR has the correct procedure to do a kill stall on a Axial flow.
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