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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thinking of switching over to poly fingers but they do not list them for a 810 large auger header. Anyone ever try cutting them down in length? The steel fingers measure 9 3/16 long and I see they make some that are 10 1/4 or 10 5/8 long. Was thinking could cut them in a chop saw but was not sure how the end would wear.
 

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Did you call them for the listing? I think that auger is the same as the 1010 is it not?
I bought some from shoup for my 1010 and did not like them, They were a bit short and eventually one fell thru the guide and crunched stuff up inside the auger. Maybe that is why they are so long now, to account some for wear? I dunno, just wondering.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I did talk to MayWes this morning. They said to only cut on the fiberglass end and not the outer end. They said they no longer make them for the 810. The person I talked to said other than I would not like drilling the fiberglass that he could see no reason it would not be possible to do. The fingers I believe are a different part number between the 810 and 1010 header but I will have to double check that. I hear thoughts both ways on poly fingers so not sure what to think. About three years ago I had a steel finger go through the machine and I ended up replacing rasp bars, welding a mount back on the rotor, and straightening out a concave. This year the screws came loose on a guide and let a finger get inside the auger. No damage to the auger but it did break 3 fingers one which made it through the machine and the rock trap got the other 2. Thinking even if they wear out much sooner than steel in the long run it might be less expensive. CIH is over $21.00 a finger now. So a $9.95 poly finger might not be such a bad deal.
 

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I've heard some of those horror stories about fingers going thru the machine. Not a good thing to have happen. They were actually a lot of my motivation to try the poly.

I dont know how soon you have to have this in the field, but if you can buy one poly and have it shipped to try before you buy the kit, maybe then you would know for sure what you need to do. Cutting and drilling this fingers would not be easy and if you miss drill, the finger is really basically ruined. You also would need to be very careful and wear a dust mask as well as wrap around goggles to ensure you do not get the material in your eyes or respiratory system when cutting and drilling.

But still, other than maybe the diameter being different, I think the length might be the same between the large 810 and the 1010. If you can look up in parts online and see if the crankshaft is the same part, maybe you can buy the large finger receiver Ts and come out better than cutting and drilling? I really dont know. I had an 810 for years, but it was the small auger and then went to the 1010. Now I run a draper head and absolutely love it.

Maybe you can call JTI or something in Colfax and see if they have a used draper that would fit your acreage and take your auger head in trade? Just depends on your budget, but I know running my 1015 belt header, I am constantly worried about loosing an auger finger and having it punch a hole in the rotor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well they list a 1010 finger as being 8 7/8 inch long and the 810 measures 9 3/16. The holders are the same. The crank part number is different but I am not sure if that is due to the throw or length or both. Don't think I have ever seen a 24 foot 1010. Believe they were 25 feet. It might be easier to make a crank that had a little longer throw to get the shorter fingers into the same spot. I am just in the planning stages right now and will make this a winter project. Had not thought about a draper header that is also something to think about. If the weather holds this go around and the machine stays together I am thinking I should get done around the 9th or so.
 
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