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Discussion Starter #1
I bought an 860 combine. On the way home I discovered the hard way that it has no brakes. I was driving it through town and going up hill with 3 cars right on my as when a line on the hydro transmission blew. I hit the brakes only to discover there were none on either side. Ended up dropping the corn head to stop the thing.



I tried searching the internet, but found nothing about it. Don't have a dealer nearby. So I'm not sure where to start looking.



Of course with a hydro transmission you don't absolutely have to have brakes. But there's always that one time...
 

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start with the basics check your brake fluid level, your linkage to the brakes, is your emergency brake working?
 

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They are a pain in the bum. worked on my 550 extensively, shockingly the same parts as a 860, which is funny since i robbed some parts off my 82 in the bush for discs. They are very prone to air, remove all brake fluid replace with auto transmission fluid. Check that the brake pistons work (two people job). lift tire off of ground tighten til brake drag, back off 3/4 turn. bleed the crap out of it like your making blood sausage. Lol
master cylinder rebuild if you can find parts, will make you want to quit farming. do not use screw drivers to pull off little rubber check valves, they are what makes the whole thing pump up. they look like rubber caps with the ends squished flat.
the one thing is that system was used for decades on a lot of models.

Here is a link to AGCO parts online, sign in as guest, check massey ferguson on the left side, then search for 860. That will show you all the parts and part numbers, start googling numbers online might find something

https://apb.agcocorp.com/
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just wanted to say thanks for the input so far.



Yesterday I was working on replacing the cylinder drive belt, so I haven't had a chance to work on the brakes yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, tonight I started by checking the reservoir. It was dry. I filled it up, pumped the brake pedals about 15 times, and checked it again. The level of fluid had dropped maybe an inch.



So I topped it off and pumped it maybe 50 times. The fluid level did not drop any further.


I tried look at the master cylinders from under the platform. Can't really see anything.



Tried pulling up the floor mat to see if there's any access from above. It seems to be glued down.



So how do ya get at the things ???





No one else around, so I couldn't try bleeding them at the wheels. Not sure what my next move is.
 

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-It is a complete pain to work on,Lol. If you have no one to bleed it, just get a hose loosen the bleeder on the brake cylinder push the hose over it, and put the other end into a jar of brake fluid (so air won't go back in just pull a little oil back). and just pump a lot keep refilling the master cylinder. But, if it has no fluid you probably have a leak somewhere. If i remember there is a plate that bolts from the cab floor, that gives enough room to see how ridiculous it is to work on. The mat has to come off.

-Also if it sucks a lot of air, you can convert the oil the ATF. i do it on a lot of older farm equipment. It doesn't hurt the seals but is a thicker viscosity to help keep air out. You shouldn't be traveling at a 100 mph to warrant brake fluid heating.

-You can use a pry bar on the brake arms to see how much travel it has. It is just a simple nut to tighten up the travell.

-Hope that helps, i rebuild mine and bled it all by myself, so it is possible.

-If you look at the link i gave you you can see the plate in the parts diagram, to see how much mat you are going to have to scrape off.
 

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-It is a complete pain to work on,Lol. If you have no one to bleed it, just get a hose loosen the bleeder on the brake cylinder push the hose over it, and put the other end into a jar of brake fluid (so air won't go back in just pull a little oil back). and just pump a lot keep refilling the master cylinder. But, if it has no fluid you probably have a leak somewhere. If i remember there is a plate that bolts from the cab floor, that gives enough room to see how ridiculous it is to work on. The mat has to come off.

-Also if it sucks a lot of air, you can convert the oil the ATF. i do it on a lot of older farm equipment. It doesn't hurt the seals but is a thicker viscosity to help keep air out. You shouldn't be traveling at a 100 mph to warrant brake fluid heating.

-You can use a pry bar on the brake arms to see how much travel it has. It is just a simple nut to tighten up the travell.

-Hope that helps, i rebuild mine and bled it all by myself, so it is possible.

-If you look at the link i gave you you can see the plate in the parts diagram, to see how much mat you are going to have to scrape off.
 
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