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My hydraulic tank sprung a leak. Does anyone know if you can get the tank out of the machine? Looks awfully tight in there. Have no idea if the tank can fit out the front or not. Hoping not to have to pull the cab and maybe even the transmission to get the tank out. Any help would be appreciative. Tia.
 

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We fixed our tank a couple years ago, but we had the transmission out at the time! I know there isn't much room in there, but it might come out with removing the brake disk? I have a manual for that tractor, I will see if there is anything in there and let you know. Not sure what they were thinking when they put it in there.
 

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It will come out but as Kevlar mentioned some models the brake disc actually fit into a recess in the side of the tank. Believe it goes out the bottom, you sort of stand it on end as you slide it forward and it fits down inbetween the tranny mount and front diff. Might have to run the left front or even both front wheels up on some railroad ties or such first to make sure enough clearance.
Its a stupid place for it and first chance I get I'm hanging one under the nose like what Atom jet and such did, make it three times bigger too and all in all that will add some extra cooling as well.
 

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On my 875 I added an auxiliary hyd system for running an air drill

I just mounted a fuel tank off a Ford 9000 I had laying around on the left frame rail beside the engine for the reservoir. Only had to drill a few holes to mount it and had lots of capacity. Certainly not as aesthetically pleasing and symmetrical as the Atom Jet setup but definitely more cost effective. It's also way easier to add oil to as well.

Might be easier than pulling and reinstalling that tank.
 

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That looks like it got hung on there in a hurry Dan lol. The tank destined for mine was an heavy rectangular welded steel gas tank, its longer but not as tall and deep as yours, the angle iron mounts off the truck actually will fit up to the tractor ok on each side, and plan is to mount it centered, actually just ahead of the nose and as high as possible that it don't interfere with opening the grille for maximum clearance. How did you rig your return to keep foaming to a minimum? I was thinking of welding a return fitting onto the back of mine about a foot or so off bottom, that way the outlet should be submerged under almost all conditions. Will rig suction about an inch off bottom on the back as well. Have suction towards one end, return to the other to improve blending. Least that way I'll have no lines sticking down or out in the open to snag on trees or whatever. One thing I wish is that the tank had a baffle, but with enough oil in it I think all be ok. I had once upon a time thought of revamping the system on mine to something better, but currently have no need for extra flow, went a different route for drills, so status quo is working just fine, but the main things I want to improve is location of the tank and to be able to get more cooling and capacity, and just have the ability to adapt anything else as required in the future.
 

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That looks like it got hung on there in a hurry Dan lol. The tank destined for mine was an heavy rectangular welded steel gas tank, its longer but not as tall and deep as yours, the angle iron mounts off the truck actually will fit up to the tractor ok on each side, and plan is to mount it centered, actually just ahead of the nose and as high as possible that it don't interfere with opening the grille for maximum clearance. How did you rig your return to keep foaming to a minimum?
Well... If it looks like it was hung in a hurry that's because it was. Lol. Bought the tractor one fall and set it it up for pulling our drill with a Flexi coil 1610 single shoot air cart. Had enough flow to run it ok. Next April my dad was at a sale looking at a wheel loader and got a smoking deal on a bigger drill with a dual fan BG tank. Needless to say the Versy didn't have enough flow so in a week we drug the drill home, checked it over and rigged up the aux hyd system and were rolling. When it came to the reservoir, I had it from a parked truck and only needed 8 bolts to mount it (and I was able to use a few existing holes from a blade mount so I only had to drill 6).

So yes a few aesthetic details lost out to "Just get her going". Lol.

I mounted a large in tank filter on the return and have the tank fairly full of oil. Never had any foaming issues yet.

The oil does get fairly warm and maybe an oil cooler would have been helpful but it ran several years no problems and now it's just the backup unit.
 

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Well it came out and went back in just like you guys said. I will have to say the hardest part is lining up the driveshaft and holding that huge brake disc in place. The problem with the tank was a strap broke lose and it wore a pin hole in the tank. Thanks again for the advice!
For future reference, clamp a small c clamp to the top edge of the brake disc and throw a small ratchet strap or rope over the main driveshaft above and hang the disc approx where it needs to be and secure your rope or strap to something handy down below. It don't have to hang perfect, just close, then take two long tapered punches and insert them thru the driveshaft flange and work them into the disc and then into the flange on the transmission. I have a very hard time now to do much lifting or such when I need to reach up above my head, my shoulders fricken kill me, and I've had mine off a few times that I figured out an easier way to do it. Least mine don't fit into that groove in the tank, the Series III have a narrower taller tank so its one less issue to deal with lol.

Actually just got thinking, mine has the caliper on the side, perhaps the earlier ones have it above, seem to remember that on my parts 750 when I tore it all apart, if so, might have to do things a bit different to hang the disc, but should be a way.
 
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