9600 concave replacement tips

What I usually do is remove all the rasp bars but two straight across from each other. When I reinstall the concave I hook a chain to the concave and one rasp bar and pull or pry down on the one in front to help "roll" the concave back into place. The easiest way is when the shaft running through the cylinder is bent or the right hand spider that the rasp bars are bolter to is broke. I remove the shaft then use a cherry picker to lift it in and out.

Mentioning the spider on the right side check the weld around the hub. On the 9600 and 9610 combines those like to break away from the hub.

Lay a heap of wooden blocks diagonally across the feed augers so that they rest between the flights and sit on the tops of the feed troughs. this prevents damage to the augers. From memory 4x2 is about right. Have a good look at the auger flighting, bearings and bevel gears while the concave is out.

I would buy a sheet of 3/4 plywood and cut it to fit over the augers. Now only will this prevent damage to the augers, but you can slide the concave on it, as well as pry against it.

You may find you need a new floor for your feederhouse as well.

Are you installing a St. Johns hard faced concave?

Used a FEL with pallet forks, under concave, removed bolts and front shaft, dropped concave backed away. Used a wire tied to rasp bar and rolled concave into place off of the forks. Used a Deere 13 bar but removed every second wire from front nine bars. If replacing bars, I shimmed any low bars to be within 1/16" of high bar.

Thanks for the tips. On the weekend I ratched my ankle badly so had the job hired out. We used a number of these tips and by all accounts the job went better than expected. To bent - I farm in Alberta and haven't heard of a St. Johns concave so went with stock.