[CQGems]

Hi all.

Firstly my apologies for my first post being a request.

I am in the process of swapping engines on an oldish 9600. Coming out is a 6076HH001, and is being replaced with a 6076HH030.

Apart from the difference in the block re water and the timing casse treatment, all of which were easily sorted, I now have the problem with the motor simply not wanting to play.. It is running very ragged, the throttle switch not working and the motor not shutting down when the key is turned off.

I have been through the wiring, and noted it is identical, as well as noting as far as I can see, the injector pump is also identical.

The only thing that I can see that has changed is the tacho sensor. It is also noted that according to the piller readout, the motor is doing 3000rpm when it is idling. Am I on the right track with my problems being due to a different tacho sensor reading and if so, how can this be rectified.

Thank you in advance.

 

[SWFarmService]

I would start with the speed sensor and the other thing I would wonder about is what the engine came from, I heard once from my teacher in college (most knowledgeable guy I know in electrical and fuels) that a guy put an engine in a tractor from a combine and it would only run at 3 speeds even with the hand throttle so once you have that tach speed working correctly and if it still don't with and the engine came from a combine also I would check to see if they changed something to do with the speed switch over the years.

Welcome to the site and good luck!

 

[CQGems]

Thank you for your input. I am also thinking speed sensor. Will have to get the JD boys here to reprogram the ecu I guess.

The motor has come from another header so no probs there.

Thanks again.

 

[CQGems]

Hi all.

Just an update and one more problem that may not be related.

Was able to get the ECU that came out of the header that donated the new motor and it has fixed the engine problem.

I am still getting a crazy tacho on the pillar, showing 3000rpm at idle, which I am sure is also to do with the changed speed sensor, but more importantly, I cannot turn of the engine with the key.

I have whittled the problem down to the alternator exciter wire not turning off. If I manually isolate the exciter wire it all shuts down and no residual voltage.

Is this just a separate coincidental problem or is there some safeguard where I cannot shut down when at full revs, therefore still going back to the speed sensor problem.

Sorry to be a pain, but you must admit it is interesting.

 

[dusty1]

faulty diode on exciter wire? will cause engine not to shut down with key command.

 

[offroadnt]

Is the speed sensor in the same location on both engines? Sounds like the old engine might be off the the timing gears and the new off the flywheel? That would explain engine speed reading four times higher than it should.

They don't get engine speed reading from the alternator do they? Are you using the original alternator?

 

[CQGems]

Hi. Thanks for the replies.

The speed sensors are in different locations.

On the original engine, the HH001, the speed sensor is down low on the timing case facing the front. It has the water pump bolting onto the left front of the block. It is also an Imperial engine.

The HH030, which is a metric engine, also has the speed sensor on the timing case but is located on the top of the timing case, which tells me that it is reading the actuator at 3 times the speed of the old one, thus the difference.

These are different engines. I of course am using the loom off the old one, where there was no diode near the alternator, just the wire going from the loom to the alternator.

On both alternators, the pulley sizes are the same, and there is only one wire there, the exciter. Thanks.

 

[flanders20]

Some setting procedure in the digital tach. If to old have to get new tach to be able to program it.