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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im looking to se if anybody has changed over their newer 9600,10s,50s back to the old style wood blocks. If so what were you reasons and how do they act after the change. The reason Im asking is I took apart all the bearings on my 50 today and all of them had more dirt than grease in them. It has been sitting for a few months but I use heavy grease, and they get lubed every 10 hrs in the season. Obviously the seals dont seal and im wasting grease if the seals are only going to allow dirt to come in and contaminate. ANy thoughts fellas?
 

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I'd have to say the wood is better - I worked on one where a bearing had gone out, caused little bit of damage, but i also heard of one where a bearing got hot and burnt the combine.
 

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My vote is for the cast alloy. My 9600 is an early model, being a 1991-1992. When I sent my combine in for its' first inspection (winter time..where they go over it in the shop), the shop foreman said that I needed to take out the wood blocks, and go with the alloy....Now, people seem to be running from the alloy back to the [oil-imprenated] wood. Fact of the matter is that I have never had a moments trouble with my cast alloys. Maybe I got a "good" set...maybe I grease them "too" much...?? Who knows..Here is what I do, just for the record: When greasing the rear zerks, I count how many shots it takes to make a little bit of grease puke out...Whichever zerk/walker took the most grease (say all walkers but one took 13 , but one took 16 shots), that is how much I give all of the front zerks (16 in the example)...since I can't readily see them..I do this religiously every 10-12 hrs. My bearings seem as tight as the day that they were installed...and up 'till now (knock on oil-impregnated wood), they have done great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I agree somewhat TX, I do the same as you do when greasing. Plenty of grease enters the front bearings. My concern is the seals suck,, and allow dirt to enter the bearing. No joke I just finished pulling out all my walkers from my 50 which has about 1200 Hrs and the bearings had more dirt that grease in them. My older 9600 keeps more grease but only because the crank is worn more allowing more to stay. The 50 however is fairly new and also the R.H. front crank bearing behind the drive gearcase was OUT. Must have went at about 1100 hrs, for no apparent reason either. Back to the block thing. Honestly I feel like Im wasting grease on a bearing that allows dirt in just the same as a wood block would. Also I noticed that the alloys seem to wear sooner mainly side to side play. My first thought when Deere wanted all the cutters out there to switch to alloys is because they werent makin enough on the wood block machines needing replacement parts. IM TORN. Thanks for your thoughts TX.
Anyone have anything to add? ANyone?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Abilene Machine sells wood blocks to replace the late model alloy blocks to the tune of $42.00 for series 3, $20 for series 2, and $30.00 for series 1. I thought Deere could sell the alloys for $40.00 a pair.
 

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There is another thread around here somewhere that goes/went over this is some detail. I have to go check my 1st calve heifers right now, or I would bird dog it for you. I heard you loud and clear about laying the grease to your alloy bearings...and then it [simply] puking out the seals...I can clearly see why you are torn between the two...truth is neither is that good of an option.

Try finding that other thread! If I'm not mistaken, I read where someone makes a sealed roller or ball bearing to replace the two we are discussing. Sure would be worth looking into!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Kuchar makes a bearing for these. What seems wierd is that the only description under a bad photo says, It will handle the load and make the machine run smoother. WHA%T???? That tells me nothing. Anyway, the picture doesnt look very promising as far as design. I wonder what the Cat walker uses these days or how about Masseys walker.
 

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I put wood on my 9500 @ 1300 sep hrs. One crank was starting to score, and the al. brgs had been
greased religiously. I would tell anyone to dump the alum bearings and put on the oil impregnated maple ones from abilene mach. If your cranks are already worn, they have undersized bearings too.

Grease is not cheap, and it takes a lot to keep the old ones full.
 

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I have changed many wood blocks to alloy and tell my guys to grease with a multi purpose grease grade 2 and have had no trouble, the trouble is when guys grease them with the wrong grease or not at all. the throw on the new cranks are different than the old ones and the crank is hardend. My guys have run the alloy for more than 4000 hrs and no trouble the combine has 6200 hrs on it and the guy is planning on running 400 acres of wheat with it and running 1500 acres this coming fall. I can tell you happy stories and sad stories, if you take care of whatever you have it will last you a long time. the alloy you buy today is the third type they used, the first two had their problems. gl
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I found out Friday after looking through the dealer parts program that the Lates machines 9660 WTS including the worldwide edition machines all have wood blocks now with a single centered locating collar. I guess the question is did deere change back to wood blocks because they are better or because they wanted to sell more cranks. No one from deere would ever give a straight answer on that anyway. Over the years ive worn cranks with the alloy blocks, the wood blocks in the past didnt wear the cranks any sooner either. Price wise again both are the same price, but your saving about two and a half tubes of grease every ten hours. I think I remember the service interval on the cranks extending to 50 hrs on the 50 series back when they came out,,, thats sooooo wrong.
 
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