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Discussion Starter #1
I cannot get the straw walkers to time on a 9610 Deere. I installed new shafts and alloy blocks...new bearings on the shafts last year. It ran good for a few days and tossed the right hand walker....installed a new straw walker last year and it broke it last Saturday...I installed yet another walker Saturday and just cannot get the new walker to time where you can easily manually turn it over. I'm at a loss to figure out just why the other four walkers will time up fine...however the right walker just won't time!!

I checked it out good and even installed another new rear crankshaft and that made it as bad or worse than the year old new shaft. Has been tearing the rear block mount off the walkers

Any ideas as to why I cannot get the right hand straw walker to time on a 9610???

I'm beginning to think maybe it's a bogus front shaft(new last year too) simply because it seems like with the rear blocks loose and rolling it over by hand that block wants to slip side to side...roll the walkers and tighten the blocks and all is good until #5...gets tight!

Thanx for any ideas helpful or otherwise!...Stevie
 

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This is Deeres textbook procedure
Timing of the straw walkers is performed as follows: NOTE: When bearings or crankshafts are serviced re-timing is required. If not timed correctly, straw walkers will fail in a very short time. 1. Disconnect the straw walker drive belt. 2. Tighten hardware on the front bearings to the recommended torque of 45 N·m (33 lb-ft). 3. Tighten the nuts on all the rear bearings and then back them off slightly. 4. For each rear bearing, rotate the crank one full revolution until the throw of the crank is at its bottom most position. Tighten the bearing. 5. Tighten the bearings in the following sequence: • Outside Left • Outside Right • Inside Left • Inside Right • Center (if applicable, on 9600) 6. If a tight area is noted during the revolution of the crank, loosen and re-tighten the previously set bearing. 7. With all hardware tight, rotate walkers by hand and check for any resistance. 8. If any resistance is detected, repeat the complete timing procedure. 9. Walkers should rotate freely. 10. Torque all hardware to 45 N·m (33 lb-ft). 1401,DV574 -19-17SEP96 Straw Walkers and Crankshafts/All Walkers - Timing Procedure TM1401 (28JUL97) 120-15-3 9400 Thru 9600 Combine Repair
280797 PN=876 120 15 3
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I jacked round with it yesterday and this morning. I've always timed the walkers from left to right...so I tried the left right left right procedure RWT lists above. No good...left will time...right won't...the rest will time easily.

Yesterday I worked on it and checked to make for sure I had the spacer behind the bearing on the right front walker shaft...checked for clearance between the separator shell and right walker....checked the rear shaft for left/right clearance and shifted the shaft both directions to see if it helped....no good although I can make it harder to time the other walkers if the rear shaft is too far left

I tried old worn out alloy blocks on the right walker...front and rear...this helped to some degree...but the right walker still gets pretty tight on rotation and doesn't time properly. I double/triple checked to make sure the front and rear shafts were synchronized on the throws and it's fine...

I am going to stick another front walker shaft in it as I cannot determine anything else to be out of whack. I will report back...success or failure.

It has to be something I bolted on last year...which was new shafts bearings and alloy blocks...I replaced the already replaced rear shaft Sunday and no difference...swapped blocks around...about has to be an anomaly with the front shaft
 

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I've never worked on those walkers, but is it possible either the front or rear shaft is installed flipped end to end, so the crank timing is not right?

I would tend to agree that it sounds like the front right crank is not made correctly. If the angles are not all the same on both shafts, it will never time.
 

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When you installed the front crank did you torque the walker drive gearbox on before you installed the blocks. I say that because that centers the crankshaft in the machine.
I have also had to go back and loosen all the rear blocks and torque them again. I torqued then rotated the walkes many times by hand to see if there was a bind. If there was I loosened and torqued the block where the bind happened.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just got back to the house...tired..dirty...have grease in my hair!. As far as Jeff's question....The front and rear shafts are specific part numbers. Front shaft is the front shaft....has a threaded hole and a key slot on the right side for the walker drive gearcase. The rear shaft has a place to put a straw spreader pully on the left side although both shafts appear rather similar.

Yeh...The bearing spacer bearing and gearcase were installed correctly and tight. I have the new front shaft and bearings and such...and have the front shaft out. This why I am tired dirty and have grease in my hair. Before I left the shop I laid the new shaft and the old shaft(last years shaft) side by side and there is noticeable difference between them on the #5 walker journal bends.

I have installed straw walker shafts before in 9000 series combines...I worked from 1997 to 2007 in a Deere dealer combine shop and have timed lots of straw walkers and changed quite a few shafts and piles of blocks both wood and metal....That don't make me any sort of expert tho

This is something weird....and this ain't the slickest 9610 on the planet...it is a pretty decent looking beast and has been a decent combine. I am going to fix it
 

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Stephan I think you found the problem.
Even 20 years ago when I worked pulling wrenches the odd time new out of the box meant nothing.
If you can see theres a difference the pos is made wrong.
Could set that crank up on a stand and use a straight edge and see how much the throw is off.
It wouldn't need to be much off either to cause a lot of grief.
 

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Maybe time to check the casting numbers against the part numbers and see if someone screwed up ... maybe it fits a 9600 or something?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
No luck...new front crank made no real difference...I'm at a loss now as to what to do or try.

Pretty certain 9600/9610 cranks are the same at least the metal block style cranks are. Combine shell looks straight and not sprung.

I'm going to check just to make sure it's not hitting the beater grate...and see if I can get some measurements to see if the separator shell is sprung
 

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Did you compare the original crank (which obviously worked) to the new ones before installing the second new one? I could see JD getting in a run of incorrectly made parts for these older combines. If both the new ones are made the same, and the old one is not.... It would almost be worth sticking the old crank back it to see if it works right.

I might be considering calling around to junkyards looking for a good used one!

Hope you get her figured out....what a PAIN!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It was the replacement straw walker I installed last Saturday. I took it back out and laid it upside down and took a level to it...the back block mount pad was noticeably not level with the rest of the walker. Some measuring shows it was about a 1/4" higher on the right than the left side of the flat with the block bolt holes. Another new walker and it came real close to timing up.

Still something not quite right with the geometry of the combine as I had to use a used/worn block on the rear of the replacement walker to get it timing smooth.....But it timed smooth and cuts wheat
 
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