[460]

My fan is starting to rattle pretty good, at least I'm pretty sure that's what it is.

Have any of you changed the upper bearing and bushing yourself on one of these. I have the repair on cd doesn't look to bad. Sounds like a common problem although it sounds like they have updated the bearing and bushing. Just sounds like it could be expensive as it is fairly time consuming and would like to do it myself.

 

[Duane H]

I had to do the one on my 9330 they changed a lot of pieces in there and it was fairly pricey I forget total price.

 

[460]

If it gets left than the shaft needs to be replaced, which doesn't look cheap. Talked to tech, said its not that technical just time consuming. They pack them with grease but they dry out. I asked him if a guy could put a grease nipple on it and he said why not.
My estimation, from talking to service manager and tech was between 3 and 4 thousand.

 

[ilbar]

My 9530 was $3600 to get it done during seeding this spring.

 

[460]

I had to do the one on my 9330 they changed a lot of pieces in there and it was fairly pricey I forget total price.

My 9530 was $3600 to get it done during seeding this spring.

How many hours were you guys at? Mines about 1600.

 

[Duane H]

How many hours were you guys at? Mines about 1600.

That sounds about the same hrs. I think im at about 2200 now and I think it was around $3500 to fix.

 

[ilbar]

I had around 1700 hrs when they changed mine. It's a bunch of BS to have to do it at those hours considering what these tractors cost. To me deere should have to eat that bill because pretty well every tractor will need it done. And if done wrong you get to buy a radiator and other parts when it flys apart so best money spent getting a tech to do it.

 

[460]

best money spent getting a tech to do it.

Oh man I wish you wouldn't have said that. Now I have to do it

 

[foxwell_87]

had ours fail on our 9430 at 2000h, apparently there were a large batch of serial numbers that were recalled due to no grease. ours was not in this batch yet was still completely dry.

 

[460]

So I finished fixing tractor. Not before taking a few trips.
A few points:
My tractor is a 2010 1700 hrs. Was rattling pretty good. The fix is on driven pulley. Which is the upper one. The outer sheave will need nothing.
Important to note their are no bushings in the original inner sheave, just steel on steel. Their was no sign of grease left just powder. If you order new bushings they will not fit in the original inner sheave.
There is an updated sheave with the bushings included for around $700. Does not come with seals or backup rings or snap rings.
The shaft was wore enough I replaced it ($800) and the two bearings, one of which is subbed up to a new part number. My bearings seemed to both be good. But I replaced them both.
This is neither a technical or complicated job. However I encountered one problem. I greased splines on shaft and inside cavity of sheave with a little too much of the recommended grease from Deere because of the fact that they seem to dry out quick. I was conscious not to pack sheave full of grease but when I bolted outer sheave on to shaft the inner sheave pushed grease out both seals and bent both snap rings. Which I should have caught when bolting together. So basically you can only grease the splines good and put it together.
As mentioned mine was making enough noise we started to worry about it flying apart. It would have ran a long time and would have to get really bad before it self destructed because the outer sheave is bolted solid to the shaft.

An important note is that the sheaves can be removed quite easily for inspection and could be greased periodically. The operator manual details fan belt replacement. I would place a big piece of cardboard between rad and fan first. Follow those procedures remove the 3 bolts they say to loosen up to 1 inch, and remove outer sheave, pull fan out right hand side and remove inner sheave.

 

[scottyheps]

$3500 fix at 2100 hrs. 2010 9630

 

[460]

One thing I forgot to mention is if you are planning to take sheaves off and add grease or inspect your supposed to mark the sheaves so they go on the same way to stay balanced.

 

[jjanke]

As a Je tech I would advise keeping a close eye on the engine dampener. I had 3 different machine that we replaced the top and bottom sheets and shafts at 1000,1600,2500 hrs. I turned out on these machines that the dampener was causing extensive vibrations resulting in premature drive shaft failure. Dampener should really be replaced at the advised 4500 hrs regarless

 

[460]

Thanks, I was wondering about the dampener.
I think the manual says 5 yrs or 4500 hrs.
I ran a few of these tractors when looking for one, they all seem to have a vibration at certain rpm range. Mine at around 1500rpm has a noticeable vibration but will run smooth lower or higher. My driven shaft was not really in that bad of shape nor the sheaves wore very much. The noise is gone and engine seems really smooth now.