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Let's start out by saying I have essentially zero knowledge and experience when it comes to the A/C systems on equipment or vehicles. We have a IH 986 and a JD 4640 tractor, and after this planting season I am starting to get a little tired of none of our equipment having working A/C (or radios or fuel gauges but I'll save that for a later post :54:). It ain't so bad when going against the wind cause the breeze blows through the windows and the dust doesn't blow in but going with the wind you just about choke on all the dust.
So my questions basically are how do you fix the A/C system on these tractors? I have heard people mention things like converting to R-134a and stuff like that which I believe is a different type of refrigerant? How do you know what type of system is installed on the tractor and what refrigerant it needs? If a conversion is needed how do I know what parts I need to get to fix it right? Like I said I have no knowledge or experience with this stuff so any info/advice would be appreciated.
 

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I don't know a whole lot about HVAC, but I know if you were feeling ******* you could throw in a window shaker like larry the cable guy.

I hope you get it figured out, A/C is a wonderful thing.
 

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A/C isn't child's play, I recommend hiring the best guy you can find and do it once and be good for several years. I repair a/c and I never just get to leak detect, flush and repair, I have to change burned up pumps cause people had backyard mechanics come out to save a dollars or they went to Walmart and bought a hose and a few cans.


Info for anyone having their a/c serviced, if the guy adding the refrigerant doesn't add any oil after 3 cans its time to chew. It will work once, maybe twice but it won't last long
 

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I fix mine all the time. All i have ever used was the gauge and cans from Princess Auto. check pressure on both sides at about 2000 rpm. should have around 100-120 lbs on the high side and around 30 lbs on the low side. if it is low add a can slowly and make sure it is inverted. if you put too much you can rattle (hydrolock) the pump so you just keep an eye on the accumulator, find out where it is and it will have a sight glass, if you see a lot of bubbles try another can. i have a john deere 4630 and International 4000 and a massey 550 that i service myself. Go online and learn about ac system, ac systems lose pressure over time through the seals. if it has a leak like mine, i add one can per season to keep it up (but always throw a gauge on it to be sure and check the sight glass for bubbles). been doing this for decades. if you can understand how air brakes on a semi work you absolutely have the skill to work on an a/c. Beside throwing in a can is not going to hurt to try, it goes on sale at bumper to bumper for about $7 a can. the dura cool is compatible to all of them, that what i use always even in my half ton truck 1998 dodge ram. i have never bagged a pump all original equipment except had to replaced a buggered office valve in the 4000 once. Leaving them not working does the pump more harm them making sure everything cycles properly.
 

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Most systems have a tag on them some place that says the refrigerant if they have not been serviced and updated they are r -12 and will need to be updated to r 134a. To do it right you need a vaccum pump they start at 100 bucks a set of guages another 100 or so a new filter drier and a fitting kit to switch from the r 12 to the r 134 connectors. A bottle of ac oil and a dye injector to help find leaks. Usually when we updated we replaced the compressor. Our deere dealer liked to change hoses but we have done it both ways. Also many new driers don't have sight glasses anymore
 

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I've been using dura cool and red tek for years. I would just Put enough in to make it run, now the kit comes with a guage for the low side so you add until it's in the proper zone. All the doom and gloom mechanics like to feed are un warrented in my opinion . In all the years I've used the stuff I've only had one compressor fail but since the tractor had 6000 hrs it didn't worry me.
 

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A/C school on internet forum. Ya, right. I have a BS in diesel tech. One class for a whole year was A/C. That was 15 years ago. I am not even starting to get into this one.
Cool! I didn't realize they gave BS degrees at tech schools!

When service people charge >$2.00 per mile and drive >30 miles, and then charge >$100 per hour to drive, then work on the A/C, then go get parts and do again, you can afford to blow some crap up! I never have, but have heard stories. My worst blunder was not putting oil in the new compressor when I installed it....and that was only a small cost compared to what I would have paid if I had hired it done!

I can believe a teacher could talk about a/c for a year, but I think the basics could be summed up in a good 15 min you tube video....and charging in about 5 min......it really is a very simple thing.....

not putting anyone down here, but I think anyone asking for help in a forum is talking about basic info, I don't think they need to know the thermodynamic properties of the coolants, or the advanced physics of how the system works. And if they have been running without A/C, they don't want to pay anyone to fix it, or they would have a few years ago, and if they blow the whole thing to kingdom come, they will still have the same thing they had before....hot cab......just sayin....

my rec is buy some cheap harbor freight gauges, some cheap 134a, try it...can't hurt to bad, most likely the parts are cheap compared to paying the "mechanic"....and hay...you might learn something about A/C systems in the process.....like when you buy a new compressor, the sticker that covers the plug that say "no oil in compressor" means you need to put oil in it....and it is easier to do before you put in the 134a in! good luck!
 

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You guys act like this is an expensive job, I repair several systems a year, as long as I am not fixing someone's screw up a typical bill for parts to repair a leak, flush as needed vac out bla bla bla is under 500$ and with the average costs of pumps being 500$ it is a no brainer to just get it to someones shop, its not like even a good auto mechanic couldn't work on it.

Willing to bet on the Deere the low side pipe in the cab corner is shot
 

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I used to spend a fortune on mechanics and compatibility issues and they still failed often. I have since done a lot (did I say a lot?) of reading to understand how it all works and have switched to the cans and now seem to keep things running pretty well. I find that the cans (Red Tech and others) cool way better than 134 especially on some of the borderline systems in tractors with lots of glass. Loads faster and just generally works better. I can evacuate, flush and do all the right stuff with no better luck than just quickly squirting in a can or 2 till it cools. You have to understand the lubrication and a leak detector is a good tool. A/C is so critical on this equipment that many times you can't run without it and service guys are very hard to find so as with many other farmer fixes we have had to take matters into our own hands. Lots of good info on you tube and Uncle Google! Good Luck!
 

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A/C school on internet forum. Ya, right. I have a BS in diesel tech. One class for a whole year was A/C. That was 15 years ago. I am not even starting to get into this one.
I am a lic. Heavy duty mechanic and had the " official " AC training , but now I am a farmer. It's my opinion that the reason mechanics don't like dura cool is because a farmer spends $30 to get his AC system running for the year vs. hundreds of dollars to have a refrigeration tech do it.
 

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around here, auto zone does free diagnosis. I like the local napa beter, but talk to the local auto parts stores. I believe they will beable to help you figure out what you need, and will "coach" you on what to do and look for. I'm not up on those tractors, but if you need to buy a compressor, you can get "cheap" conversion kits (from r12 to 134a) from places like Abilene Machine. But I would start with "evacuating" the system, and adding a few...3 to 4 cans and see if the pressure is right and if it will cool. Most of the tractors and sprayers I have worked on will start to cool on the 3rd can if system has been evacuated first. good luck!
 

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Cool! I didn't realize they gave BS degrees at tech schools!

When service people charge >$2.00 per mile and drive >30 miles, and then charge >$100 per hour to drive, then work on the A/C, then go get parts and do again, you can afford to blow some crap up! I never have, but have heard stories. My worst blunder was not putting oil in the new compressor when I installed it....and that was only a small cost compared to what I would have paid if I had hired it done!

I can believe a teacher could talk about a/c for a year, but I think the basics could be summed up in a good 15 min you tube video....and charging in about 5 min......it really is a very simple thing.....

not putting anyone down here, but I think anyone asking for help in a forum is talking about basic info, I don't think they need to know the thermodynamic properties of the coolants, or the advanced physics of how the system works. And if they have been running without A/C, they don't want to pay anyone to fix it, or they would have a few years ago, and if they blow the whole thing to kingdom come, they will still have the same thing they had before....hot cab......just sayin....

my rec is buy some cheap harbor freight gauges, some cheap 134a, try it...can't hurt to bad, most likely the parts are cheap compared to paying the "mechanic"....and hay...you might learn something about A/C systems in the process.....like when you buy a new compressor, the sticker that covers the plug that say "no oil in compressor" means you need to put oil in it....and it is easier to do before you put in the 134a in! good luck!
The problem with to do-it-yourselfer and a/c is the restrictions and rules. Ozone garbage. If it is abused to much and people notice. New rules get made and things get bad.
You can learn enough to get into trouble in 15min.
 

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The problem with to do-it-yourselfer and a/c is the restrictions and rules. Ozone garbage. If it is abused to much and people notice. New rules get made and things get bad.
You can learn enough to get into trouble in 15min.
Yes...you are correct. If we willingly give up our freedom, then they don't have to take it away, but if we exercise our freedom, I agree with you that in the future, they will figure a way to take it away from us!
 

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Cool! I didn't realize they gave BS degrees at tech schools!

When service people charge >$2.00 per mile and drive >30 miles, and then charge >$100 per hour to drive, then work on the A/C, then go get parts and do again, you can afford to blow some crap up! I never have, but have heard stories. My worst blunder was not putting oil in the new compressor when I installed it....and that was only a small cost compared to what I would have paid if I had hired it done!

I can believe a teacher could talk about a/c for a year, but I think the basics could be summed up in a good 15 min you tube video....and charging in about 5 min......it really is a very simple thing.....

not putting anyone down here, but I think anyone asking for help in a forum is talking about basic info, I don't think they need to know the thermodynamic properties of the coolants, or the advanced physics of how the system works. And if they have been running without A/C, they don't want to pay anyone to fix it, or they would have a few years ago, and if they blow the whole thing to kingdom come, they will still have the same thing they had before....hot cab......just sayin....

my rec is buy some cheap harbor freight gauges, some cheap 134a, try it...can't hurt to bad, most likely the parts are cheap compared to paying the "mechanic"....and hay...you might learn something about A/C systems in the process.....like when you buy a new compressor, the sticker that covers the plug that say "no oil in compressor" means you need to put oil in it....and it is easier to do before you put in the 134a in! good luck!
Good advice there, litefoot.
Here`s a U-tube video that I found very helpful and one that I think is worth sharing.
 

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A/C school on internet forum. Ya, right. I have a BS in diesel tech. One class for a whole year was A/C. That was 15 years ago. I am not even starting to get into this one.
Then go higher a tech, some of us have worked on way more complicated stuff. A/C is not hard if you can think. A whole year, i call BS, here it is a small part of the course. Seriously a pump, two rads, a dryer, and a orifice valve, pressure switches and temp bulbs. Your refrigerator must totally mystify you.
Oh ya nobody can learn anything on their own, only in a school setting. More knowledge has been learned by being hands on then taught guaranteed.

You only need grade ten to qualify for a diesel tech here, far from rocket scientist. Ricky from trailer park boys has enough edmacation for a diesel tech prequalification, And thanks for the positive post you would be floored at what skill set's some of the guys here have. Anybody can learn this if they are willing, it is not that complicated, and yes you can learn this on the internet.
 

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You Tube is a great teacher! My son learned to play the guitar on You Tube and is getting pretty good.
There is no question a licensed mechanic would call me a barn yard savage as I've done some stupid stuff. I replaced a compressor on a 1688 and installed it wrong by 180 degrees. I was adding coolant and my son in the cab said the air was getting warmer. I had the heat shut off so went back to look at the old compressor and realized it was installed backwards.
learning is a lot of fun and I enjoy learning the things that I can use, but my eyes glazed over in school and I didn't learn much there, not sure why. The way it is presented I think. Visual and hands on seems better.
 

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Your refrigerator must totally mystify you.

.
Well now that you mention it... the light inside... does it really go out? Its always on when you open the door, so has it been on the whole time? I like to just crack it open to see, but the light is on! It does mystify me!

Oh, wait, you mean the cooling part don't you... naw, not so much.
 

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I have had mixed results with the home fixes. I have had a set of gauges and thermometer for 30 years and still have 3/4 of a tank of R12 and lots of times just adding a bit of R12 used to get the systems going just fine for another year. I have had less success with the RedTeck style. Not saying they never work, just that it seems like even when the pressures are within range the compressor just cycles on and off in 5-10 second intervals and little or no cooling is happening. I have suspected a plugged expansion valve. Is that a possibility?


Just a bit of common sense advice for some of the guys new to A/C is to just clean all the components, specially the evaporator rad ( in front of the engine fan) and the condenser (the one often forgotten and neglected up in the cab roof or hidden deep in the HVAC system. Another tricky little thing often overlooked is a heater valve that is not closing. The A/C may be working fine but can't overcome the heat created in the heater core because of a leaking heat valve. Just install a ball valve in the heater lines to be sure there is no hot coolant flowing. Also look for old and damaged seal strips around the removable covers that may allow air leakage which can really reduce the max cooling effect. Do all the simple things yourself because the hired guy is going to do it anyway, on the clock! If you still can not make it work, then call for help. The tech will be impressed that your system is clean and ready to repair. It does not hurt to shop around for some sale components like compressors, receiver/dryer to have on hand for a tech to install for you. Truck shops often have great prices on compressors and really there are not that many different kinds if you check into it. Good luck with your cool cabs!
 
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