The Combine Forum banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
389 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Was greasing the combine this evening an doing maintenance. Found a chunk gone from the pulley on right side of the rear accelerator roll shaft. Key way wallowed out in shaft. Need new shaft an pulley. Had similar deal happen on my R72 once. Real pain to replace and I'm guessing at least $2500 in parts. Why it happened is the big question. Nut was tight but you can see where it looks like the washer has worn into the face of the pulley like it has been loose
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,048 Posts
If shaft runs true buy a Belzona kit and a new pulley. I used belzona to fix the shaft under the gear on opposite end of that shaft and chopper pulley shaft on a previous combine. Make sure everything runs true before you use it and use the release it comes with in kit for inside of pulley or bearing so it can be taking apart. It’s a field fix and have never had a failure using it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
389 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
If shaft runs true buy a Belzona kit and a new pulley. I used belzona to fix the shaft under the gear on opposite end of that shaft and chopper pulley shaft on a previous combine. Make sure everything runs true before you use it and use the release it comes with in kit for inside of pulley or bearing so it can be taking apart. It’s a field fix and have never had a failure using it.
Snipe, I am not familiar with the Belzona kit, I googled it and see what it is I think. How would this work in my case where the key way in the shaft is wallowed out? Do you just put the key in with some of this stuff and it sets up in the area where the key way is supposed to be and creates the new key way? I would rather have a tooth pulled than pull this shaft out and replace it but don't want to have it fail me during harvest. There is a pretty fair load on this shaft, I guess at the end of the day it is driving the chopper, accelerator rolls and distribution augers. The clean grain and return grain elevators are driven off the pulley but the load of them is not going through the shaft or on the key way of the shaft.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
i have used it on the worn half of 8070 steering spindles. Yes just worn half. 4-500hrs and still no slop in spindles.Not logical but seems to work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
389 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I chomped and put in a new shaft. I would like to try this belzona kit some time. If it were just a bearing out and wear on the shaft i would tried it or something of the same nature but since the key way was jacked and the torque on the shaft I didn't want to have a failure during harvest. It is a poor design by Gleaner, high torque area, there needs to be a double key (180 degrees of each other), tapered hub or a splined shaft. The little 1.25'' long 3/8 key can't stand the pressure if everything isn't 100%. I bought 2 keys, i tapered one to fit all the way to the back of the key way and then cut the 2nd key off so it was 1'' long and put it in there as well. The issue I think on this one is the way the pulley is made the "nose" that sticks out past the actual pulley is where the key is at and this is also the weakest part of the pulley and it chunked part of the nose off. I now am using the entire length of the key way in the shaft and the pulley since I added the 2nd key 1'' long. I hated to do it but the pulley slides on so easy there is a little "slop" between it and the shaft, I put some green loctite on the shaft before I slid the pulley on. Be **** getting off if I ever have to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,275 Posts
By the look of exposed threads i believe the spacer between bearing and shoulder of shaft was missing or crushed from a previous bearing failure wearing it thin. It is important to torque to 350 ft lbs especially with the demand of the chopper these days. The pulley needs to protrude beyond end of shaft and washer not distorted or torque will not be effective to hold things tight. I agree this area needs upgraded and like how tin man addressed the area.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,514 Posts
I feel that the flat washers need to be thicker as Dan says they hold the tension on things and been heavy handed tightening the bolts bends the washers. I did the front feeder house shaft last harvest and the main factor was over tightening the bolt on the slip clutch and Agco using a non Pfafnir bearing there so as soon as the bearing started to lose performance it was not held tight on the shaft and of course stuffed the shaft.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
So I’m not the only one... Had to replace the shaft and pulley during harvest last year on my 62. I started to smell something hot so got out and found the pulley smoking. Figured the bearing went bad until I took the nut off. The key was round and key way was almost 1/2 inch wide. Once the belts were off the pulley practically fell off. I still can’t believe it had no sign until taken apart.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
389 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Started cutting beans Friday. Had a good day, cut 105 acres and everything went smooth. Saturday my nephew's 680 Deere either had # 6 injector so south on him or the wiring harness, they aren't sure yet but he went down right after we started, 20 mins later mine went south. Sheared key on u joint that drives the chopper, sheared the key on the accelerator roll shaft that I just out in before wheat. Smeared the shaft good, can't even tell where the key should be. Had joint was loose on shaft but wouldn't come off, had traded metal and made ridges on shaft. Cut the u joint off. Went and got a u joint, no way to put key in and shaft boogered up, not replaceing the $2000 shaft I just put in so I am welding the u joint to the shaft, will deal with it the next time something happens. I sheared these keys a few times on my R72, Gleaner out a large u joint on but still same dinky key. Same way thing on the right side of the accelerator shaft as discussed earlier in this thread. Why they do not fix these issues and get something in there that will take the power going through here is beyond me. I never torn up a u joint but sheared a lot of keys. While digging the plug out between the rotor and the chopper I found a chunk of the carrier that holds the rotor bearing in the stop sign. Looked out there and the stop sign is bent up too. Bearing was not out. I assume when the key sheared and the rotor tried to jam stuff through the chopper it must have busted the carrier on the rotor bearing? Was not in heavy crop at all when this happened. Pulled the rotor out to see if there was anything else in there that may have caused an issue but didn't find anything. Be in the morning before I can get rotor bearing and carrier.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
the nut came loose on mine the first year i had it least i think thats what happened wreak the shaft and keyway on mine when it happened i used bearing mount on my pulley and nut when i put it together and 3 years now its been good
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,048 Posts
Tin Man is yours a S77? I see in parts book part numbers for roll shafts are different between S77 and S97. Did they beef them up or just change part numbers. They have been doing some nice updates to the newer models to get capacity I hope they have been beefing up the size of components as well to handle the hp and stress the extra capacity Is putting on them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,076 Posts
There are machine shops that can build up shafts and put in key ways for far less than replacing with new. They could even put in 2 key ways in on shaft and the pully to end the chance of the key ever stripping again. When a machinist has the parts in his hands he can make tolerances very tight and eliminate any play. A machine shop could even make you a heavier shaft and bore the pulley to match. If I find a failing common issue with something I take it to my machinist and solve the problem once and for all. Why pay the dealer for another failing part?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
389 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Tin Man is yours a S77? I see in parts book part numbers for roll shafts are different between S77 and S97. Did they beef them up or just change part numbers. They have been doing some nice updates to the newer models to get capacity I hope they have been beefing up the size of components as well to handle the hp and stress the extra capacity Is putting on them.
Snipe, I have an S88. The accelerator rolls are larger diameter that the R series, not sure if the 77's had the larger one like the 88 or not. I have not looked at the part numbers. I would guess the shaft size and the key for the u joint is very possibly the same on my 88 as it is on an N6. Gleaner is real good about building stuff "good enough" to work in ideal conditions, step just outside ideal conditions and you will have issues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
389 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
There are machine shops that can build up shafts and put in key ways for far less than replacing with new. They could even put in 2 key ways in on shaft and the pully to end the chance of the key ever stripping again. When a machinist has the parts in his hands he can make tolerances very tight and eliminate any play. A machine shop could even make you a heavier shaft and bore the pulley to match. If I find a failing common issue with something I take it to my machinist and solve the problem once and for all. Why pay the dealer for another failing part?
Dookiller, I agree 100% and will do the same thing myself if there is time. My shaft replacement this spring before wheat was a last minute repair and didn't have time to get a machine shop to fix the old one. I still have the shaft I removed this spring and plan to get it fixed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,388 Posts
I feel that the flat washers need to be thicker as Dan says they hold the tension on things and been heavy handed tightening the bolts bends the washers. I did the front feeder house shaft last harvest and the main factor was over tightening the bolt on the slip clutch and Agco using a non Pfafnir bearing there so as soon as the bearing started to lose performance it was not held tight on the shaft and of course stuffed the shaft.

I would have to agree with silverrod to make sure there is enough washer that the nut doesn't bottom out before the pulley is pressed absolutely tight. If the washer contacts the end of the shaft before it strikes the pulley, you may have an issue. It also looks like the nut is getting close to the end of its threads. A loose pulley will eventually fret the key way and the key. I think it is called fretting fatigue.


https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/materials-science/fretting
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,048 Posts
I would have to agree with silverrod to make sure there is enough washer that the nut doesn't bottom out before the pulley is pressed absolutely tight. If the washer contacts the end of the shaft before it strikes the pulley, you may have an issue. It also looks like the nut is getting close to the end of its threads. A loose pulley will eventually fret the key way and the key. I think it is called fretting fatigue.


https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/materials-science/fretting
And on a Gleaner red or blue loctite is your best friend. It takes some heat to remove things but at least it doesn’t come apart prematurely.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,514 Posts
I started harvest yesterday went 50m and blocked it up. I was setting the reel and not paying attention to anything else. The straw spreader plus the chaff spreader were turned off. Thinking it was only the straw spreader I got the straw out and started it up and bent the roll shafts.
FU_KWIT. Well after taking the drive pulley off I noticed the keyway was starting to wear. Pulley was tight and took some getting off. I'm thinking the keyway should be longer. Also the key was cut of square and not rounded, that will cause breakage.
I'm so pissed of with myself for doing this
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
943 Posts
There should be a slip clutch on the chopper pulley where the shaft from the ujoint goes in or at least a shear pin assembly. I’ve stalled my spreader out a hand full of times and twice I’ve broke the ujoint. I think the updated accelerator shaft on the s9 has a bigger bearing on the right side and same as the old ones on the left side
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top