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whats really the differnce between an AFX and specialty rotors? I've always thought they were the same thing but i guess i was wrong. I'm assuming I have the specialty in my 2188?
 

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The main difference is that the AFX rotor has an auger or screw on the front of the rotor. The rasp bars look very similar but the auger on front is supposed to pull in material a little better than the old "elephant ears"
 

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Lowen makes a bolt on kit for the specialty rotor to make it an AFX. Not hard to do, I think in the directions it even says you can do it with the rotor in the combine. I was replacing bars on mine so we went ahead and pulled it. (alot easier that way)
 

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I would not just assume that it is an AFX, Have a neighbor with a 2188 and he has a standerd rotor. Drop your concaves and see if the rotor has a lot of little bars about the size of the palm of your hand spaced all over or if they are about a foot long or so and are lined up one behind the other. Think thats how they are?!
 

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Yes you can put a auger flight on the front of the secialty. Besides the loewen and sterwart steel kits, there's also the Kile KRF kit. http://www.kilemfg.com/ Here's a link to a search page listing on agtalk that you might want to read some of the links. http://talk.newagtalk.com/search/query.a....2&keywords=kile

The rasp bar pattern is slightly different on the afx than the specialty. There is also fewer of them on the afx. The rasp bar ramp angle is different, not as steep. The afx bars will fit a specialty, but not the other way around. *I have not tryed that, but was told by many it is that way*

Here's a picture of a reverse rasp bar, *afx mounting size* on a specialty rotor in the middle of a bunch of standard specialty bars as well as a Gorden bar. You can see the ramp angle is shallower in comparison.

 

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Hi
To change the topic a little.. How much better performance do you get from the Axceller on a specialty rotor 2188, not that the model maters much.. the difference between standard & Axceller?the sales guys will say 30%, i recon it would be more realistic to say 15-20%.
If i was designing a rotor i would have put a screw up front right from the beginning. The leading edge of the ears are going the wrong way..

Also has anyone got some info on the Marlins elephant ears. we accidently ordered a set & now im wondering if they perform bertter... than the originals?

We have always run with the originals.

BTW, we have installed a Helical concave up front for this harvest, & have been running 4 gordon rasp bars up front for many yrs, hope to thrash it out alot easier this yrs as everything gets a bit smooth on the inside over the yrs.. also new rotor cone vanes.

Mate of mine has been running this combination for 3-4yrs now.. he's impressed at the next to no rotor loss & clean sample with no white heads
Cheers
Phill
 

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Depends on the crop, but yes, the Marlins will make a huge difference. They work very well and quiet the machine down as well. You'll notice in tough thresh crops, you can start earlier and run longer with the marlins without sacrificing ground speed.

The Gorden bar is a huge bar. I removed mine from the very front 2 rows of standoffs to help allow the material to enter the concave better before hitting the stuff with the Gordens. But then, I likely have a lot different crops and conditions, so.........
 

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Hey thanks for the info..
Sounds interesting that the marlins are almost a cheap step up to the exceller, kind of... less crunching & groaning when the straw is tough. Any loss in normal conditions?

When you think about it.. the marilns have less bite, or less steel plate.. so less drag on the rotor, also less compacting of material aginst the cone. i'll have another look at them tomorrow, see if i can work them out.
Maybe we'll fit them & try them out this yr.. no fun if they reduce capacity, hope to update the machine next yr.

Our normal conditions are 35-40deg days with grain moisture at 11-12% & dust for miles... Klm's
 

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They'll be fine. You will have to learn new ways to tell when the rotor is full just like when installing an auger flight setup. The sounds that you are used to will be faint and not so pronounced. If you want to really make sure things feed intothe concaves, buy a set of "rotor vanes" from Kile to go with the Marlins.
 
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