I just bought a new gas powered air compressor with electric start. My question is about hooking up a battery. Can I just run a wire from the battery on the truck to the engine or do I need separate battery? Another option I have is to run a wire to my generator on the other side of the truck. I just want it to look clean and not have stuff running all over the place.
Air compressor
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I cant help but wonder about back feeding or other power issues into the truck system when the air compressor in running and charging. Probably depends how new the truck is and what it had for computers etc. ?
But it should'nt take more than a small motorcycle size battery for the compressor engine if you want to make sure it does not mess with the truck somehow.
I've hooked things to the vehicle battery before that I thought would be fine, then had the battery somehow drained without warning some time later. More than once it was the remote item that was the cause. Faulty charging part and safety switch.
But it should'nt take more than a small motorcycle size battery for the compressor engine if you want to make sure it does not mess with the truck somehow.
I've hooked things to the vehicle battery before that I thought would be fine, then had the battery somehow drained without warning some time later. More than once it was the remote item that was the cause. Faulty charging part and safety switch.
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Could run cable from battery, starter, and depending on how it is set up the alt might be an option. No matter what you do make sure you use a fuse of some sort plus make sure wire is properly sized for the length. Good connections really pay off so I recommend using solider. The other thing is do not run a ground cable back to the battery. Attach it to the frame or service body and just make sure there is adequate grounding to the frame from the battery
Thanks a lot for the thread here! Really helpful. I just got a new compressor from the tractortool store, and I need to install it too. I hope, I'll manage to do it.
I have the same thing on my service truck! Ran a 4 gauge wire from battery to a large disconnect switch 50amp with inline fuse 50amp, then from disconnect ran a 6 gauge to motor on compressor and a 6 gauge to electric fuel pump. This way when i am not using it i turn switch off and dont have to worry about battery or theft of fuel! By the way i ran a deep cycle battery on truck also just to give a little more charge holding capacity!
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On the solder thing. I used to think the same way. Until I seen a starter cable get hot and melt the solder. Better to crimp or maybe silver solder or braze so that the rubber shielding will melt before the solder does. Starter cable can get crazy hot when someone wants to crank way to long. I bought a hydraulic crimper and crimp all my battery cables lugs now.
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That would be bad news if the soldier melted!
That would mean something is shorting out! If so I would be more than happy to have the connector come apart hopefully reducing damage such as fire or other electrical problems but this is why it needs to be fused.
Not starting anything here just something to think about.
Problem with crimped ends (if done properly they can last a long time) is that the connector is only making contact on the outside strands of wire so over time as things become corroded the wire ark against themselves to make contact causing resistance and eventually turning the copper black and ruining it.
With solider you are making the best possible attempt to make a connection with every strand of wire.
If you have heat build up in a cable it is either shot and needs to be replaced or is undersized for the job.
I love working with electrical stuff, I like a bit of overkill but I only ever do it once, always like to have extra, especially on a service truck as you may decide to add extra provisions later such as lights, fuel pumps, maybe even an electric winch later on so always think for the future
I also recommend if you can stay away from adding stuff at the battery do, reason is that you are asking for another place for corrosion where unless you have q leaky engine the starter should not generate as many connector probs
That would mean something is shorting out! If so I would be more than happy to have the connector come apart hopefully reducing damage such as fire or other electrical problems but this is why it needs to be fused.
Not starting anything here just something to think about.
Problem with crimped ends (if done properly they can last a long time) is that the connector is only making contact on the outside strands of wire so over time as things become corroded the wire ark against themselves to make contact causing resistance and eventually turning the copper black and ruining it.
With solider you are making the best possible attempt to make a connection with every strand of wire.
If you have heat build up in a cable it is either shot and needs to be replaced or is undersized for the job.
I love working with electrical stuff, I like a bit of overkill but I only ever do it once, always like to have extra, especially on a service truck as you may decide to add extra provisions later such as lights, fuel pumps, maybe even an electric winch later on so always think for the future
I also recommend if you can stay away from adding stuff at the battery do, reason is that you are asking for another place for corrosion where unless you have q leaky engine the starter should not generate as many connector probs
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Solder, then crimp. I have seen cold solder alternator problem. Intermittent, like a bad alternator. Heat shrink all that was holding everything together. The best is those compression fittings like air brake connectors, but they are expensive. However they are good for outside the shop, and are permanent. Problem is all the sizes you need for different wire sizes. If you want to minimize fire risk of a long cable, put a solenoid up front at connection that engages with compressor start circuit
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Agreed, if the solder is melting, there is other issues.
I stake and then solder. By staking the end you obtain a pressure contact and reduce the clearance between the connector and cable. Soldering afterwards eliminates the green weenies and assures a good solid sealed permanent connection. Any ability to allow air or moisture into the joint is going to result in corrosion.
Those compression style ends are handy for field fixes or when you are in a hurry. I always have several on hand just for that, however they are not green weenie proof, least not in my experience.
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AB, what would you use for solder and a heat source to do a good connection on say a #0 battery cable and a copper end lug? Do you have any other little tricks to get a good, solid connection? TIA.
For doing battery cables and bigger stuff, all I have ever done is the gas torch turned on low and mildly heat the lug end and for solder the usual electrical solder that's about 1.5mm diameter thick and just feed it into the join.
Also for wiring up generators, I used 100amp wire with a 70 amp fuse straight off the truck battery. My mate fitted a heavy duty plug for his power/earth cable so he can take the generator out easily.
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Thanks for the response. When you say electrical solder, what is that exactly. You are not supposed to use acid core. So is it rosin core? What %. 50/50 or 60/40?
50/50 resin core.Our options are limited from our supplier so thats all I can get and I use it for everything and never had issues.
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Sorry TA, I hadn't been following this thread. As already mentioned use Rosin Core. There are different gauge or thicknesses available, just out of convenience most times I just use the thin stuff as that's the one I use most often for other stuff so it's close at hand. I buy it in spools about the size of your fist. I do have some big stuff I use occasionally for filling volume as well. For heat, I use one of those small butane torches cranked wide open, it's a smaller hot flame, sure it can take a bit to heat up a large lug, but it don't burn and melt the hide on the cable as bad as a larger flame. Shrink tube is optional and debatable as to it's value on a battery cable IMO, though if its one that's to be used in close quarters, I'll put it on more so to prevent unintentional shorts and such.
When soldering, suspend the cable with the open end of the lug up so it works like a cup, otherwise you'll have solder running all over. Also, don't suspend the cable by the lug, like in the vise or such, it will take forever to heat it and you'll end up with a poor job. Remember to solder properly, heat the lug till the solder melts on contact, don't just apply heat to the solder.
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Thanks AB. Sounds like experience talking! I was not sure if you should use rosin core in a big lug but it makes sense since both parts to be joined are copper. Could you use a small gas welding tip to heat up a big lug quick? How do you support the cup in an up position so the solder does not run out? I suppose if it is a friction fit the cup will stay on?? Thanks again.
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Yes for sure you can use a small propane torch or even a fine brazing tip on your cutting torch to heat. I used to use one of those self igniting tips on those miniature propane bottles, but once I got the first butane one which are so nice for smaller work, I no longer keep any of those little bottles of propane around anymore. Just several cans of butane instead. BTW, with those butane torches, you get what you pay for, not sure what the make is, but the best ones are the black ones with the metal body. They are a lot more than the cheap crap but will last you for years...as long as you don't drop it too often on concrete or steel:22:
Here is a pic I found online of the good one. I'll try to remember to check in the shop later, I have a brand new spare one, I'll check the name on the box, as I think the stickers long ago fell off the one I use.
http://www.jewelry-making-how-to.com/images/1255.jpg
As for holding the lug on the cable, I always stake them first with a suitable sized pin punch, at least once in the middle of the barrel. Larger ones will do twice. If you use too small of punch, you will end up puncturing the lug as well, which then makes soldering a *****. That way you have both, a friction pressed fit and a completely sealed soldered connection as well. There is a special tool available specifically for staking or crimping a battery cable end, look something like a cable cutter used to cut steel cable. I've considered getting one, as sometimes when staking with the punch as I do, I could use a third hand lol.
To hold the cable and lug in position for soldering, I usually just clamp the cable lightly in the vise and bend to position as required. Or use a vice grip to hold it in an appropriate position if still on unit.
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Good ideas AB! When I see your little butane torch, it reminds me that I have one hidden away for special jobs!! I got mine from the HiTeck sales guy, Averil from Devon maybe. He used to be the TCB guy. Thanks AB
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