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Air compressor

11K views 19 replies 12 participants last post by  Transaxial 
#1 ·
I just bought a new gas powered air compressor with electric start. My question is about hooking up a battery. Can I just run a wire from the battery on the truck to the engine or do I need separate battery? Another option I have is to run a wire to my generator on the other side of the truck. I just want it to look clean and not have stuff running all over the place.
 
#2 ·
On our air compressor, we just wired the starter to the battery on our welder. Works good that way because the welder isn't used that often so atleast the battery is always getting charged.
 
#4 ·
I cant help but wonder about back feeding or other power issues into the truck system when the air compressor in running and charging. Probably depends how new the truck is and what it had for computers etc. ?

But it should'nt take more than a small motorcycle size battery for the compressor engine if you want to make sure it does not mess with the truck somehow.

I've hooked things to the vehicle battery before that I thought would be fine, then had the battery somehow drained without warning some time later. More than once it was the remote item that was the cause. Faulty charging part and safety switch.
 
#5 ·
Could run cable from battery, starter, and depending on how it is set up the alt might be an option. No matter what you do make sure you use a fuse of some sort plus make sure wire is properly sized for the length. Good connections really pay off so I recommend using solider. The other thing is do not run a ground cable back to the battery. Attach it to the frame or service body and just make sure there is adequate grounding to the frame from the battery
 
#8 ·
On the solder thing. I used to think the same way. Until I seen a starter cable get hot and melt the solder. Better to crimp or maybe silver solder or braze so that the rubber shielding will melt before the solder does. Starter cable can get crazy hot when someone wants to crank way to long. I bought a hydraulic crimper and crimp all my battery cables lugs now.
 
#7 ·
I have the same thing on my service truck! Ran a 4 gauge wire from battery to a large disconnect switch 50amp with inline fuse 50amp, then from disconnect ran a 6 gauge to motor on compressor and a 6 gauge to electric fuel pump. This way when i am not using it i turn switch off and dont have to worry about battery or theft of fuel! By the way i ran a deep cycle battery on truck also just to give a little more charge holding capacity!
 
#9 ·
That would be bad news if the soldier melted!

That would mean something is shorting out! If so I would be more than happy to have the connector come apart hopefully reducing damage such as fire or other electrical problems but this is why it needs to be fused.

Not starting anything here just something to think about.

Problem with crimped ends (if done properly they can last a long time) is that the connector is only making contact on the outside strands of wire so over time as things become corroded the wire ark against themselves to make contact causing resistance and eventually turning the copper black and ruining it.

With solider you are making the best possible attempt to make a connection with every strand of wire.

If you have heat build up in a cable it is either shot and needs to be replaced or is undersized for the job.

I love working with electrical stuff, I like a bit of overkill but I only ever do it once, always like to have extra, especially on a service truck as you may decide to add extra provisions later such as lights, fuel pumps, maybe even an electric winch later on so always think for the future

I also recommend if you can stay away from adding stuff at the battery do, reason is that you are asking for another place for corrosion where unless you have q leaky engine the starter should not generate as many connector probs
 
#11 ·
Agreed, if the solder is melting, there is other issues.

I stake and then solder. By staking the end you obtain a pressure contact and reduce the clearance between the connector and cable. Soldering afterwards eliminates the green weenies and assures a good solid sealed permanent connection. Any ability to allow air or moisture into the joint is going to result in corrosion.

Those compression style ends are handy for field fixes or when you are in a hurry. I always have several on hand just for that, however they are not green weenie proof, least not in my experience.
 
#10 ·
Solder, then crimp. I have seen cold solder alternator problem. Intermittent, like a bad alternator. Heat shrink all that was holding everything together. The best is those compression fittings like air brake connectors, but they are expensive. However they are good for outside the shop, and are permanent. Problem is all the sizes you need for different wire sizes. If you want to minimize fire risk of a long cable, put a solenoid up front at connection that engages with compressor start circuit


 
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