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use glass cleaner or fluid film neither will degrade hose
I have used every lube know to man. There’s no damn room to work. Then I’m banging my head and working on my knees underneath. Wearing my damn hard hat so I don’t Brain myself
 

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I just slice the hose as far as I want to push it on, makes it way easier. only had a few that wouldnt stay on like that and then double clamping fixed it. Cut the old ones off, if they're stuck I dont even bother pulling on them.
 

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5 gallon pail of hot water with soap in it, sometimes with a stock heater in it. Slips on real easy as long as it doesn’t kink when you push it on.
 

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I was thinking the hoses are likely Chinese made now and of lower quality.

I use a heat gun to put hoses on, a knife or hacksaw to cut them off.

:) I don't wear anything on my head when under a tillage tool, if I can't see above me I will draw blood.
 

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Excessive hose wear seems to be the lesser of two evils with the bourgault. The other option is unplugging lines, so use brute force.

The bourgault hose focuses on flexibility vs the stiffer and more durable hose available on other brands. Have to use the bourgault hose on the outter wing joint as the stiffer jd style tends to kink.

Best thing for removing or installing hose is an alluminum pipe wrench.

Edited: Thanks to joesixpack for clearing up the pvc/urethane mixup in my original post.
 

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My son got me a Dewalt 20V Diegrinder. Put a mandrel and a cut of disc on it and it sure works slick for cutting a slit in hoses to pull them off. Also I'll use a wire wheel on the diegrinder to clean any rust of the pipes and then coat them with never seize. Makes putting the hose on much easier and slows the rusting process.
 

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When using the "coil reinforced" hose, turning the hose one way will cause the coils to open up a bit. Turning or twisting the hose the other way makes it tighter on the pipe.
Just had the 8" down spout on my airdrill loading auger off. When putting it back on could "turn" it on the one way but would not turn the other way.
 

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Replacing hoses is a real pain in the a$$, only to have them wear though in the same bends again 2 or 3 years later. All I do now is cut off an 8 to 10 foot piece of new hose and cut a slice down the inside curve of it for the entire length with a Sawzall , then then cut it into 12 to 16 inch lengths. Then its just a matter of putting it apart enough to start going over the the hose, having it centered over the hole and giving it a few whacks with hammer until it fits tight, then if needed, a few wraps of electrical tape to keep it snug. Then usually after a couple of years I just need to replace patch on the hose once it is worn through again. So far this spring I've had 1 new hole, and replaced 4 patches from previous years. Way easier and cheaper then replacing all the hose every couple of years. 4 photos, 1 showing before wedged apart, 1 of just getting it started on hose, then other 2 on and underneath view. Works great in tight spots you can’t get at with tape. Good luck seeding guys…hopefully rain comes soon!!
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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Experiment failed.
The tanker hose, though it doesn’t wear through las quickly as regular hose, wears into the steel coil that will inevitably damage fragile seeds. Two have also split after that amount of wear.
 

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Thanks for the test. Save all of use from trying. We are adding the split hose covers over wear spots and think will replace them when needed. Done changing it all every year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
It was longer than 3 days, put them on before we started. Wore into the wire coil within 3500ac.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Thanks for the test. Save all of use from trying. We are adding the split hose covers over wear spots and think will replace them when needed. Done changing it all every year.
No problem. We will continue using the muffler pipe and splice in 20” of hose instead of the whole length. Keep some precut lengths in the toolbox.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Bends wear but its more elevation changes on ours that are the problem. The primaries come over the hitch and top of the frame and the way our towers are mounted, the inlet is below the frame so at some point the hose has to drop 8”. I think minimizing the angle of change is what we will have to consider before next season. I also think this is an advantage seed hawk has, as they run their primaries under the frame and not on top, so they have no elevation change.
 

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We do the split hose cover patches as well. We use a couple big zip ties to seal them up tighter.
Will get us through till the end of the season. Of season drill tuneups we replace any hose that has a patch.
We try to keep the air just what we need, as when we are blowing extra fan rpm's we seem to carve out more holes. Phos seems to be the worse for this.
Have had just as many blown hoses on the Borgualt drill as the flexicoil.
 

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So I realized in the last few days, the small hose going to mrb must be good quality. We have had 2 hyd hoses blow, caused by wear from 1.25” mrb hose. Wtf
 
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