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I don't generally get too involved with Alliance radial farm stuff for rear drive. But I do see a lot of their radial transport and floatation tires come through the doors. And I have to say I've been pleased overall with the quality and performance of their product. ESPECIALLY the 550 Radial tires they make for snow removal and city works tractors. (If you can stomach the price)

The BKT Radial Agrimax tires I sell an enormous quantity of, and have been exceptionally pleased with their performance and quality in most sizes. They don't quite stack up to Michelin or Trelleborg, but for the price you get a very sound product.

Aside from overloading or underinflating either brand has high marks for reliability from my experience.

The only real quality issues I have found with BKT was in the 460/85R34 there were a few production runs with flow issues where the cord body wasn't evenly covered in rubber on the inside of the tire. But it seems to be limited to tires in that size only manufactured in a certain window of time.

BKT has done an excellent job of addressing quality related issues. They seem very committed to producing a quality product.

Either tire option will be good for you
 

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My experience with Alliance tires is not good. We had a set of 18.4-38's on the back of our 4430 and they did not last very long they had at least 70% tread left when the sidewalls cracked and blew out. I think alot of the problem is they would not handle the 3pt equipment we run on that tractor. The Firestones we replaced them with are far superior for our application.
 

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I have not been impressed with the BKT's I've purchased. One set is on the rear of a TW-30, 18.4-38's, the ONLY thing this tractor does is pull a set of HW hay rakes. The first summer both tires had to be booted, as the side walls on the inside had broken chords poking the tubes. I was told I needed to keep 25 lbs of pressure in them, as the side walls were flexing to much at 12. Why then did I waste my money on radials? The other set is on the front of a NH 8970, 16.9-30. The ONLY thing this tractor does is pull a MF 2190 baler. Same thing, after the first one went flat, I just blew em up like balloons. I haven't had any problems since then, but sure doesn't help the ride much.
 

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I put Alliance tires on my 4710 sprayer last year. Have been extremely pleased. No lug wear whatsoever with lots of road time. The Firestone I used to have on there would wear a lot quicker.

I put a new set of BKT's on the rear wheels of my 2366 last year. I have not been impressed with the wear. Already at 75% wear. But I am running fluid in them so that could be accelerating wear
 

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I have not been impressed with the BKT's I've purchased. One set is on the rear of a TW-30, 18.4-38's, the ONLY thing this tractor does is pull a set of HW hay rakes. The first summer both tires had to be booted, as the side walls on the inside had broken chords poking the tubes. I was told I needed to keep 25 lbs of pressure in them, as the side walls were flexing to much at 12. Why then did I waste my money on radials? The other set is on the front of a NH 8970, 16.9-30. The ONLY thing this tractor does is pull a MF 2190 baler. Same thing, after the first one went flat, I just blew em up like balloons. I haven't had any problems since then, but sure doesn't help the ride much.


Radial tires really shouldn't be run that low with tubes in them. I have a feeling that the damage to the tire/tube was caused by chafing. If you're running radial tires tube type and calcium loaded you pretty much lose all benefit of the radial tire. You have to run it hard so there is no tube slip/chafing.



at 12psi the tube would have most definitely been rubbing the inner liner of the tire, it makes sense if the tube wore through the liner and finally met it's end when some of the chord body was exposed.

The only way to benefit from radial construction with fluid loading is to run it tubeless with a non corrosive liquid ballast.
 

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A tubeless rim valve and half a pail of good tire sealant will make a tube tire tubeless.
I definitely wouldn't recommend that lol. Tubeless tires sometimes have been known to run without tubes, but their inner liners are too thin to seal. If you get air migration through the chord body which you most likely will you'll end up with nasty separations throughout the tire.

There is a line between what you CAN do and MAYBE get away with, and the proper way of doing something haha.

It's your choice what side of the line you want to be on :)
 

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I did it 5 years ago. A quality sealant of enough quantity makes the liner. To each their own. A full pail of TR sealant is less than a tube in 18.4 38. I do not see how we are getting air migration when tire has not been aired up since we did it. The pressure stays the same. How much experience do you have sealing tires CDN?
 

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I did it 5 years ago. A quality sealant of enough quantity makes the liner. To each their own. A full pail of TR sealant is less than a tube in 18.4 38. I do not see how we are getting air migration when tire has not been aired up since we did it. The pressure stays the same. How much experience do you have sealing tires CDN?


We sell about 100-150 5 gallon pails of tire sealant per year. It can be really handy stuff but it still doesn't completely replace a tube for a tubeless construction tire. We use the most of it on bias floatation tires, certain tires like bailer tires even though they are tubeless construction still seem to be highly prone to casing leaks. The sealant helps if the machine is used regularly, but if it sits in a shed for months the sealant has time to run down to the bottom and expose the majority of the liner, and often times the machine will still have flats come time to pull it out for use.


Like I said before, you MIGHT get lucky and get away with it, but you risk letting pressurized air migrate through the chord body, and when that happens there is a very solid chance you will eventually see seperations in the tire. If the tire is designated tube type, tire sealant is NOT a fool proof method of sealing it.
 

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Yes TR is pink. A lot of guys do not use enough, and then rim leaks are harder to seal. About 5 years is as long as I have had it in a tire that I dismounted. The sealant was still in a liquid form at that stage. I have put it in a tin on the bench and you have a slug in about a month. So it looks like you need an absence of air to keep it liquid. It must put a chemical in the tire air to keep it liquid. That is why I figure you need a high enough concentration. The homeowner stuff for atv's has a hard time lasting a summer. On a road tire it looks like you can get into a balance problem with too much. Balancing act, no pun intended. Maybe need the golf balls for balance
 
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