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Discussion Starter #1
Well with crop values uncertain and nothing really worth pricing the futures on I am looking at even more crop diversity. I grow wheat, barley , oats ,flax, peas, faba beans, canary seed, red clover, sweet clover and of course canola. I have been debating on seeding ryegrass for its heavy root production in the top layer. I signed up for 260 acres this spring. Brett Young is the rep for this crop. The seed after production gets picked up on farm at around 35 cents a lb. It's fertilizer requirement are similar to wheat. Yields of course vary but 1200 -1500 lbs can be achieved. Clean fields are important as quack grass is bad to have in your sample. It is early like barley and should be seeded first thing like every other crop lol. Anyone have experiences they can share growing this? Combining will be slow I know as I seen videos of green straw coming out of the back of the combine moving slow in the swath. Yes it has to be swathed!
 

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We actually straight cut ours this year. We got caught not wanting to swath it in the rain, only it kept raining. The saving grace was it was really heavy and lodged. Hit it with Reglone with about 25gal/acre and that burned it down in about 4 days and went in with 40ft headers straight cutting it.
If it wasn’t flat it would all shelled out.
Now what they don’t tell you is when it’s tough at all it won’t flow out of the trucks. Under no circumstance dump it in a grain cart. We filled a 2000bu cart and had to vac it out. The 4x4 screen wouldn’t let it through.
You’ll likely need to bin dry it and it’s bulky too, eats up bins.
In short send the seed back 😂
 

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Hope to get it dry and bag it but that is a dream. The Brett young rep told me if tough, no grates in grain cart and no semi trailers just tandems. It should be mixed with some fert at seeding to avoid bridging he said depending on the drill. Every specialized crop has it's challenges and the return usually warrants the extra grief. You can save yourself a lot of grief in advance from asking experienced producers. That's why I am posting here lol.
 

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Most experienced producers never grow it again! 😂
I’m not sure about bags, I don’t think it would even want to push through the extractor grate. I’m sure of it actually.
The stuff sweats too so I just wouldn’t put it in anything but air hoppers.
 

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Have done Ryegrass three times and it's become our staple crop. We feed the straw all winter and graze the regrowth (it'll regrow back to full height by september). You will absolutely have to have aeration bins. It bridges on everything, you will have to go into a hopper bin to clean it out. We managed to take just about everything off at 16% moisture which was nice. Have gone up to 18% when time is tight and window is narrow but can cause problems down the road. You will want to shift your whole bin, don't just core, move EVERYTHING over, with the rockets we've had issues with sticking to the walls, it's easier to deal with in august/september than when trying to load a b-train in January-March. We haul all with tandem grain trucks. Our first year we had a young guy who was renting our other land custom combine it, he brought a tandem and the lead of his super bee. He thought he'd be proactive and combine a load one afternoon without telling us, he ended up shoveling out that whole trailer. We've used the grain cart when truck capacity is tight but you will be shoveling it out every night. We've seeded it by mixing it with urea and floating (was to wet to get in with seeder), using 1890/1910 single disc drill setup and a horsch high speed single disc drill. Never had issues with dry seed bridging in the drills. Our record for longest time loading a super b is 12 hours, shortest is two. The dust is something else, dust masks are your best friend, not as bad as the sweet clover I thought though. We've always swathed as we can't desiccate as we graze the regrowth. Conventional combines are recommended as the green straw can wrap on the rotor. We also grow for Brett Young and fyi, now is when they're taking in loads it seems. Have only moved one super b so far but have two lined up for this week, that'll make up about two-thirds of our crop. One year I hauled in the last tandem load first week of september.
 

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Blend seed with in row fertilizer, seed with drill at canola seeding depth. If you have any small stones at all then land rolling after seeding is a must. You will thank me when you are swathing.
Small hopper bins with air are an asset. Like 14' diameter. I've put 20% moisture in a 14' hopper bin with minimal issues. Only fill bin 2/3 full though. It packs so tight that not much air gets through a full bin.
When you start harvesting and the truck driver says he has to poke the grain to get it to start flowing, quit combining. Wait for more drying weather.
I grow a quarter section every year for B.Y. and have had great success....except for this past year.

Good luck!!
Rod
 

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What kind of weed control or sprays can you put on the rye grass crop? Is it easy to control weeds or other grassy weeds in crop?
 

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Broadleafs.....no problem. Grassy weeds....well....you can spray Puma if you like wasting money or you can use assert....if you can find any. Neither work for me. So when all my friends are going to the lake in the summer I wave at them when they drive by me spot spraying quack on my quad. If you like lots of lake time in the summer then grass seed might not be a fit.
 

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What is the risk of bringing in downy or Japanese brome weed seeds through contaminated seed when you are multiplying it?
 

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I take it annual ryegras is different from perennial ryegrass? Several farms in my area grow perennial ryegrass for seed regularly. It's either fall planted, or underseeded (often under wheat, believe it or not). Then the following year it's harvested. We've got a field we planted last fall, and we're anxiously waiting to see whether it survived the winter or not. I'm not sure it poked out of the ground last fall before the cold hit.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for all the info so far. My gleaner and my Massey have done piles of tough canary over the yrs so I hope this won't be a problem. I heard a grain dryer is not to be used for fear of losing germination. I can set my dryer at any low temp I desire with flame on/off. I want to get it dry and have aeration to hold it afterwards if it sweats. My GSI would ensure it is uniformly dry unlike aeration in a bin which can have areas the air wont flow through. I will have to talk with Brett young rep as drying it at 95F shouldnt hurt the germ.
 

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That’s not the problem it won’t flow through the drier either! It would make it to the metering wheels and that’s it!
 

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if you wanna make money grow perennial ryegrass. same yield around 0.60cent/lb winter kill is same as fall rye so almost always makes it. dont put ryegrass into a grain dryer. just harvest it dry 😬 or put a lot of air under it and turn it a couple times in the bin. most years have no issues with semis and bins. opened the plates in the combine hopper otherwise you will have to poke it out with a stick. never had flow issues in bourgault aircart.
 

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3 years experience and similar results to others. Some years it handles worse than others even at same moisture. No matter what the moisture always run some air through it and after about 1 to 2 weeks turn entire bin. Make sure you completely empty the bin before any goes back in. Haven't had trouble with bridging when seeding with a bourgault air cart. I'd recommend not using a low output auger, use the double flight auger on a bourgault for metering, maybe the single flight if a really wide drill.

Reps are usually pretty good at helping stage for swathing but pay attention to forecast because don't swath before a rain. It can weather one rain in a swath before the seed quality starts to drop or regrowth is too great. If it gets rained on the straw will be wet when you combine it. If it hasn't had a rain on the swath it can go through the combine fairly well. With BY they like a high cleanout when they clean it to ensure that you didn't throw much seed out the back of the combine.

Belt conveyor works best for handling it. If using an auger, you will have better capacity running it slow than fast.

I've been lucky that most times all of mine has been picked up during harvest so I got to reuse the bins.
 
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