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Because Rotax has no experience with building engines that need to start in cold weather***

I pull started the carbed 800 Summit at almost 40 below this winter, and went to help a neighbour.
Yes but there 4 stroke motors in quads are some kinda cold blooded. Even the single cylinder ones from 4-5 years ago
 

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Because Rotax has no experience with building engines that need to start in cold weather***

I pull started the carbed 800 Summit at almost 40 below this winter, and went to help a neighbour.
believe me that thought is not lost on me...
 

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I realize there are some setups that have a mini diesel heater to bring the temperature up of the engine and of course allow it to even start in cold weather in fairly short order but one has to be equipped with that or the alternative is plugging in but block heaters take time, need electricity nearby and if ones in a rush with no advance notice its not ideal. That is the advantage of the gas engine is being able to start in pretty cold temps and even just cool out and firing up that gas pile of crap and hit the throttle wide open and start augering. I doubt most diesels would like to be abused like the gas pots end up being.

I haven't looked into it but depending on the size of the diesel engine in a physical sense as well as the weight, are some of these auger engine platforms even designed to take the size/weight of such a unit ?
I was considering weight in an earlier post where I looked up specs on some of the 40-50 hp engines that weigh in the 400-500 lb range. The smaller series is in the 30-40 hp range and weighs 200-300 lbs. I don't think that would be a problem on most augers. Kubota, Mitsubishi, Isuzu, Yanmar all have many engines in this size range.

What about hooking up quick couplers from a pickup to run engine coolant through the cold engine? That should warm one up enough to start pretty quick. I used a 1500 watt electric circulating heater on a 50 hp Perkins that only took 15-20 minutes of being plugged in to start.
 

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That's a big circulating heater for the amount of coolant, would want one that would shut off when it reaches a certain temperature if possible as I think they will burn out if overheated but I like that quick heat time indeed. Certainly a pickup would work as well but would have to depend on "that pickup" being there to do the job. I figured it was pretty slick what I was shown a few years ago with a diesel heater on a light tower trailer and happened to be a Kubota and claimed it never took that long of the burner going to do its job, all self contained and didn't rely on any other sources to do what was required which I was impressed with the concept ( why they put them on trucks, tractors, hoes, anything that sits remotely out in the bush ) . I'd have to pay closer attention to the larger augers at their engine mount as my 8" auger engine mount wouldn't do so well !, and some of these "truck load" shorty special augers they advertise as come with a lighter undercarriage frame just to make the auger lighter so probably have to choose an auger accordingly to plan for a beefy engine.
 

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When looking at specs, look at the engine torque. You don't need a 37hp diesel to replace a 37hp gas. Notice the guys who do put a 40hp diesel in place of 37hp gas all mention a crazy amount of power. It's because guys aren't looking at the right number. And why manufacturers will have recommendations for a 27hp gas engine on an auger or 15hp electric on that same auger. Put a 30hp electric on instead of a 27 hp gas "just to make sure" and yes, it will move grain of any dampness. Putting a 30hp diesel on is same idea. Or, put a 350hp 855 Cummins into your half ton because the 325 hp gaser is a little short for pulling the camper.
 

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I knew of some welders who had connected the coolant hoses from the welder to the truck to keep the welder warm while travelling. Worked well.
 

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I would put an espar or wabasto heater on before I would rig up coolant hoses. Can warm up a semi engine in an hour so shouldn’t take long for a auger engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Thanks for the responses. I have zero interest in a diesel motor that'll cost 2 or 3 times a gas motor. I went from the old blue Kohler's which seemed bullit proof to me, to Hondas, a 20 and 24hp, the 20hp was temperamental in winter, but the 24hp has never missed a beat for 10 years! Never had an issue with it not starting because of the motor itself, it was usually a water in the fuel issue. Winter will not be an issue either, because the only time it would be out of the heated shop would be between loads. So for reliability and power its kind of a toss up between a Vanguard and a Kohler from what I can tell so far. Hard to compare older carbureted motors to newer EFI's also.
 

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Thanks for the responses. I have zero interest in a diesel motor that'll cost 2 or 3 times a gas motor. I went from the old blue Kohler's which seemed bullit proof to me, to Hondas, a 20 and 24hp, the 20hp was temperamental in winter, but the 24hp has never missed a beat for 10 years! Never had an issue with it not starting because of the motor itself, it was usually a water in the fuel issue. Winter will not be an issue either, because the only time it would be out of the heated shop would be between loads. So for reliability and power its kind of a toss up between a Vanguard and a Kohler from what I can tell so far. Hard to compare older carbureted motors to newer EFI's also.
Between a Koehler and vanguard I would take a vanguard with the winter kit.
 

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I was just about to throw that question out Meskie and seems you may know the answer. Its about the availability of winter kits for gas engines and typically I've seen nothing on the Kohler engines of a few years ago that a dealer was bringing in anyway other then the one I got with the low profile air filter special ordered through an outfit with the special muffler with the pass through hot air system. So what does the Vanguard winter kit look like and can it be switched on or off ( a summer/winter setting ? ) and does it keep or do away with that high mount air filter system ? . In fact is there any information on the Vanguard winter kit system on some website.

A neighbor had a regular non winter kit Kohler and had problems blowing the crank seal right out when it was cold because the crank case vent tube would ice shut and build up so much case pressure, don't need problems like that and a seized engine.
 

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The vanguard has a flexible tube you hook from the air cleaner to a heat shield on the muffler. Two hose clamps and it’s off or on. There is a cap sorta thing to put on filter housing after. Nothing else changes. Ours had the crank vent line taken off the intake and routed down the engine To vent below with insulation on it to keep it from freezing. Here is a picture I found
534826FC-0D2D-4AC3-B335-4CE52CFCC389.png
 

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Thanks for the responses. I have zero interest in a diesel motor that'll cost 2 or 3 times a gas motor. I went from the old blue Kohler's which seemed bullit proof to me, to Hondas, a 20 and 24hp, the 20hp was temperamental in winter, but the 24hp has never missed a beat for 10 years! Never had an issue with it not starting because of the motor itself, it was usually a water in the fuel issue. Winter will not be an issue either, because the only time it would be out of the heated shop would be between loads. So for reliability and power its kind of a toss up between a Vanguard and a Kohler from what I can tell so far. Hard to compare older carbureted motors to newer EFI's also.
Good topic Howie, I am going to buy the meridian 10 -51 auger this week with a 37hp briggs vanguard . I am done with Kohler, Every year I have gas in the oil. Doesn't make a difference with a new fuel pump or needle valve. Its the cold temps where that problem starts and even with the winter adaptor on , no help. Also the kohler runs rough and back fires all the time. I run regular clean purple gas. I too store the auger inside in the winter. Funny you mention the old blue kohler. I still have one today. Took it off the wore out auger and put it the old simplicity garden tractor. did briggs buy vanguard or other way around but was told vanguard is rated better than kohler, to each his own I guess.
 

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Since you got that information from wheatheart, I wonder if those items such as that muffler shield and the pipe is not a B&S thing but their own thing. I'd have to ask the Meridian dealer around here who actually handles Vanguard as it seems the Kohler is the more common engine other dealers throw on augers. Also that crank case reroute, probably a dealer thing again is my guess.
 

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Our vanguard is on a meridian auger. I think it says right in the engine manual to reroute vent hose for cold weather. They also put a hose on the oil drain so changing oil doesn’t end up with oil everywhere. We purchased the auger through local coop and they get them set up at factory. The coop said they were having a lot better luck with the vanguard. They don’t get the kohler anymore.
 

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Since you got that information from wheatheart, I wonder if those items such as that muffler shield and the pipe is not a B&S thing but their own thing. I'd have to ask the Meridian dealer around here who actually handles Vanguard as it seems the Kohler is the more common engine other dealers throw on augers. Also that crank case reroute, probably a dealer thing again is my guess.
NF, we bought our vanguard from a small motor dealer and the cold package came with so it’s definitely from the manufacturer. Nice weather came in spring and I took the hose off. Too early I guess. It was only minus 5 that morning and I had frost build up on the intake and it was running like ****. Put the hose back on and she smoothened right out. So it definitely is a must have.
 

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a Meridian sales rep said if he was buying he wouldn't touch a Kohler in there testing they have had way better luck with Vanguard, but he also said he would put a diesel on there as that was still a better engine to go with.
 

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I have 3 augers with 35 HP Commercial Briggs Vanguards on them. That engine is too weak for a 10 x 50 Meridian but I have been well pleased putting this engine on a 10 x 45 Meridian and on a 8 x 45 Meridian. I don't auger tough grain as a rule but my usual loadout is the 10x45 and it is absolutely matched beautifully. I can idle back and keep peas and lentils full. Durum I run wide open. It has been the best motor I have had so far and on my 8 x 45 Meridian, I replaced the 24 HP Onan with this one. Why? I like the idea of having all motors the same. The Onan was a great engine and used it for many many years without issue. Only had to replace fuel pump on it but eventually it wore out and it is not made anymore so couldn't replace with a like one.

In the winter, I have the exhaust heat shield to keep the carb from icing up and I don't have issues. If I forget to put the "snorkel" back on, it is an issue! I only buy Premium Fuel on the farm and we only have one old 3 ton (screenings truck) that uses it. Never have a fuel problem, although one time when it was 40 below, I did have to add some methyl hydrate and it cleared up the lack of power experienced due to cold temperature. That was on the 10 x 50 and I was augering fertilizer (46) with it at that time! And no, it was not augering full. I was at almost full height augering on that bin.

Plans are still to put a Wisconsin air cooled swather engine on it. I have it ready to go but have not finished the project. I will use an electric clutch I got from a neighbor off a wrecked 1482 combine and go from there.
 

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We have a 10 x 51 with atleast a 10 year old 40 hp kohler on it. I would not want a smaller engine. The carb on the kohler does not respond very quick when under light load and the motor will die sometimes. It is fine with a full load but I wish it had another 5 hp sometimes when it is fully loaded. For these bigger augers a diesel might be the way to go.
 
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