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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone!
Just bought a 2009 60ft DBS 300-D and was wondering what everyones thoughts on setting it up for heavy clays & bloody big granite rocks!?
From my research & looking at what I think could possibly be some weak points, these are my ideas to make this an even more accurate seeding set up.

-30mm closer plates double bolt to prevent breaking off.
-Change presswheels to new "V" type.
-Change bottom of fert tube to the old shorter model with finger holder to
prevent tube from blocking.
- Add Raycol air diffusers to prevent seed bounce.
- Change to shorter 5" knifes. Think they will be better for seed placement.
Shouldn't leave a deep slot for seed to fall down. Hoping plant roots & moving
to tramlines will help with hard pan??
- Seeding Canola- Raise digging depth from 4" to 3" and slow down to help with
seed placement??

What do you think, any other ideas?
What pressure does everyone set the tynes at?
Any thought on coulters? The flat bar the discs pivot on looks like they would be a weak point bending?

Cheers guys
 

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Am told not to get the ausplow coulters if you are going to adjust them often, the ones recommended are the primary sales ones. For canola get the little L shaped boots to ensure you don't drop the seed down the slots. Get lots of horsepower to pull that rig in heavy clay soils. Probably recommend in excess of 600 if you want the seven inch points. Oops sorry just noted five inch spec, that should help hp and rocks but I suggest you get one of those rotary rockpickers advertised here. DBS stands for digs big stones. You will like the machine. I also recommend seeding at lower speed for canola placement especially if you don't have the afformentioned boots.(8.5km/h)
 

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We're not on clay but did a trial with the L shaped canola boots and found standard gave a much much better germination. Also found on our country the 30mm closing tool was too small to close the slot. We run a 45mm closing tool with the closing tool depth set at zero. Ie: level with bottom of seed boot. We run coulters and sow at about 8.5kph depending on soil throw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Got a 535 stx on triples already spoke to cummins hp can be increased to 580hp possibly 600hp they will know more when they plug their laptop into the ecu. For $300 plus labour money well spent I think!
44' Flexicoil, 650lb @ 12" spacings doing 10.5km/hr digging depth 4" I'm up over 100% power a lot of the time so I'm a bit nervous in that respect.

Was wondering about the L shape boot, looks like it would throw seed too far back? Sort of figured with shorter knife, raycol air diffuser, slowing down & raising digging depth it should work pretty well. What does everyone think will this help? What setting do you put closer plate on?

A mates got a set of ausplow coulters on his, with some similar country to mine and said he broke quite a few this year. Looking at the design I can see why. I want them mainly to act mainly as front dollies to help the bar from nosing down when in tight clays & to also be able to increase speed. Unfortunately I don't have a lot of heavy stubbles so I shouldn't have a problem with trash flow?

There's also a kit which lowers the pulling point of the cables on the bar so in theory that is supposed to help with the nose down effect. Anyone know or heard whether this actually works?

Nig already have two guys spend 4 weeks after seeding picking rocks! I'm not really sure this will make things any worse from my old set up? The tyne not slamming back into the ground hitting the next rock should be a huge improvement though. Spent way to much time under bar replacing knife points etc

Naldz have been told wider closers don't work well in clay they can tend to sit up on the edges of the furrow and do the opposite pull less dirt into the slot. Is depth zero what you set the closer for everything or just canola? What size knife are you running?

Any other ideas on modifications, depth settings, closer plates, boots etc?
Cheers
 

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45mm closers are fine in clay, just put your press wheel pressure on a higher setting. We use the "0" setting for canola and the canola boot works great as it places the seed straight under the press wheel. Get the gusset kit to strengthen the bar.
 

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Got a 535 stx on triples already spoke to cummins hp can be increased to 580hp possibly 600hp they will know more when they plug their laptop into the ecu. For $300 plus labour money well spent I think!
44' Flexicoil, 650lb @ 12" spacings doing 10.5km/hr digging depth 4" I'm up over 100% power a lot of the time so I'm a bit nervous in that respect.
speed.
Geez, those Cummins horses must be teeny, tiny ponys, Nairibin!...Are they coughing up blood?
I pull that same Flexicoil in Clay with a 300 h.p. Scania engine....No laptops involved!;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Geez, those Cummins horses must be teeny, tiny ponys, Nairibin!...Are they coughing up blood?
I pull that same Flexicoil in Clay with a 300 h.p. Scania engine....No laptops involved!;)
Yeah think I might have to kick the miniature ponies out of the barn & replace with some good old Clysdales!:D What speed & depth you work at Lynas? What tractor?

Gut feeling is something's not completely right with the stx but I am pulling it a **** of a lot quicker than I used to, which will chew up power. Maybe it's just me, obviously gear & diff ratios & triples vs duals are a little different to what I'm used too.

Before the stx had a 9270 pulling the same set up, it had its ring hanging out most of the time! Aimed for 5.8 mph/ 9km but a lot of it was down in the low 4mph. Good thing was the 9270 would never give in you couldn't stall it. Still got it today 100000 hrs & doesn't burn any oil. Semi retired as the spreader tractor.

Ozzyjd thanks for the reminder on gusset kit. Pretty sure this bar hasn't had it done it's been working in sand plain country all of its life. Don't think the bars going to be overly impressed with its new home! Had yours started to crack or did you do it as a precaution? Where does the kit need to go?
 

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Yeah think I might have to kick the miniature ponies out of the barn & replace with some good old Clysdales!:D What speed & depth you work at Lynas? What tractor?

Gut feeling is something's not completely right with the stx but I am pulling it a **** of a lot quicker than I used to, which will chew up power. Maybe it's just me, obviously gear & diff ratios & triples vs duals are a little different to what I'm used too.

Before the stx had a 9270 pulling the same set up, it had its ring hanging out most of the time! Aimed for 5.8 mph/ 9km but a lot of it was down in the low 4mph. Good thing was the 9270 would never give in you couldn't stall it. Still got it today 100000 hrs & doesn't burn any oil. Semi retired as the spreader tractor.
You must have very heavy pulling ground for the 9270 ( 335 h.p.) to have it`s ring out. Still, with 100,000 hrs I guess you can`t complain.;)
But I`d have to conclude from what you`ve said that something is not right with the Stx, Nairibin...It might pay to get it checked.
I plant at approx 3-4 inches at approx 9.5 kph 1900 Revs ( I`m guessing 85% power)
When moisture seeking I plant at approx 5-6 inches 8kph 1950 Revs, probably 95% power...Clay soil.
12 inch spacing, 650 lb trips, 41 shanks, Stealth boots, single shoot.
Tractor is just a Case 4894.
 

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It would be interesting to see what, if anything, Cummins find when they put their computer on it because it just doesn't sound right. It sounds exactly like ours was brand new in heavy clay/rock climbing a long reasonably steep hill with 70'. I was ****tin myself thinking what have we done, this could be a massive stuff up, but after 200hrs she turned into a beast of a machine. I usually only drive it at night and the difference from that one night to the next was amazing, we've only had three new tractors in the twenty two years I've been home from school but I've never experienced that to that extreme before.
 

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Firstly I think you will be happy with your purchase, they do a bloody good job even in challenging country. We started with a 35ft 12" 2003 model 4 years ago and have just finished our first year with a new 40ft 12". We are pulling with a quad 450, plenty of extra power generally running in the 60-70% engine load range. We could handle bigger but heading down the CTF route, also height restrictions ect in Vic is difficult.

From our experience with heavy soils and plenty of rocks, 6" blades, 100-120mm digging depth.
- 30mm closing tiles as knife doesn't make a wide enough slot to fit any bigger one in.

- Cannot double bolt without enlarging one hole (it is offset for height adjustment), our old bar had a curved surface where closing tile bolts on and we always broke bolt heads off on rocks, ended up putting a chain on each and double bolting (still broke) so at least we didn't loose them. New bar has a flat mount, single bolted from factory and never broke one this season 6000ac, we did chain them from the start. Don't know if this flat mount is 2009 spec or not??

- Cannot remember setting on pressure gauge, 11 O'Clock for hard stuff but bring it down as low as possibly in rocky stuff. Consider second accumulator if it doesn't already have it, may be standard on 60' machines from memory.

- Haven't tried "L" shaped canola boots, have had trouble keeping standard plastics on in rocky country so bit scared I would loose them fast. New bar seems a lot better than the old one however.

- So far rarely change depth of closing tile, chased moisture for peas once but haven't had to bother since (dry sowing). Closing tile is set at "0", which is same as bottom of press wheel, in our soils this puts everything at about 20mm. Never had diffusers so don't know.

- Both bars have/had coulters, never broke axels or anything. Current spec ones seem a lot better built but time will tell. The discs themselves will wear whatever you do in our soils if you keep pressure up. Newer type heaps easier to change discs.

- Rocks, we had a couple of blokes chasing rocks behind us as well, don't know a good way around this. I am hoping over time we will run out of them to dig up.

Cheers and good luck.
Brett
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You must have very heavy pulling ground for the 9270 ( 335 h.p.) to have it`s ring out. Still, with 100,000 hrs I guess you can`t complain.;)
But I`d have to conclude from what you`ve said that something is not right with the Stx, Nairibin...It might pay to get it checked.
I plant at approx 3-4 inches at approx 9.5 kph 1900 Revs ( I`m guessing 85% power)
When moisture seeking I plant at approx 5-6 inches 8kph 1950 Revs, probably 95% power...Clay soil.
12 inch spacing, 650 lb trips, 41 shanks, Stealth boots, single shoot.
Tractor is just a Case 4894.
Yeah it's pretty tight country can chew through some fuel in 24 hours!
It's getting better some of the farms continuos crop no sheep, some continuos crop & sheep over summer & the rest is year in year out. Still making sure continuos cropping will work long term here before I phase the sheep out all together. But it's going to be a hard decision, spent a lot of money & effort to get the sheep where I want them. And if I change my mind I'll have to buy someone else's **** & start well & truly behind the 8 ball.
But then again everyone thinks they have the best sheep, so maybe if I sell them & start again I might do myself a favour!:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Firstly I think you will be happy with your purchase, they do a bloody good job even in challenging country. We started with a 35ft 12" 2003 model 4 years ago and have just finished our first year with a new 40ft 12". We are pulling with a quad 450, plenty of extra power generally running in the 60-70% engine load range. We could handle bigger but heading down the CTF route, also height restrictions ect in Vic is difficult.

From our experience with heavy soils and plenty of rocks, 6" blades, 100-120mm digging depth.
- 30mm closing tiles as knife doesn't make a wide enough slot to fit any bigger one in.

- Cannot double bolt without enlarging one hole (it is offset for height adjustment), our old bar had a curved surface where closing tile bolts on and we always broke bolt heads off on rocks, ended up putting a chain on each and double bolting (still broke) so at least we didn't loose them. New bar has a flat mount, single bolted from factory and never broke one this season 6000ac, we did chain them from the start. Don't know if this flat mount is 2009 spec or not??

- Cannot remember setting on pressure gauge, 11 O'Clock for hard stuff but bring it down as low as possibly in rocky stuff. Consider second accumulator if it doesn't already have it, may be standard on 60' machines from memory.

- Haven't tried "L" shaped canola boots, have had trouble keeping standard plastics on in rocky country so bit scared I would loose them fast. New bar seems a lot better than the old one however.

- So far rarely change depth of closing tile, chased moisture for peas once but haven't had to bother since (dry sowing). Closing tile is set at "0", which is same as bottom of press wheel, in our soils this puts everything at about 20mm. Never had diffusers so don't know.

- Both bars have/had coulters, never broke axels or anything. Current spec ones seem a lot better built but time will tell. The discs themselves will wear whatever you do in our soils if you keep pressure up. Newer type heaps easier to change discs.

- Rocks, we had a couple of blokes chasing rocks behind us as well, don't know a good way around this. I am hoping over time we will run out of them to dig up.

Cheers and good luck.
Brett
Cheers Brett thanks for your feed back & ideas.

Was thinking maybe the 6" knifes might be a better fit. Sounds like they will be more at the depth I have already been running at. What do you think? Presuming it won't take long to wear that extra 1" away anyhow.

Any thoughts on the newer "V" type presswheels?

Yeah bars got 2 accumulators. Might need 3 by the sounds of it!
As far as I know 2009 is exactly the same design as the latest ones.

They have a 60' prototype that folds the same as the 80'. Folds in narrower & sits lower. Which should suit restrictions better for over your way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Anyone know of a good second hand air seeder bin or is looking at trading one? Can you pm me please?
Anywhere in Australia is fine.
Needs to be around 12000L / 350 bushel - 18000L/ 550 bu give or take. Must be accurate, reliable, tow between, have variable rate ability & be in good shape.
If it orange & green & cheap that would be even better!:)
Even if you hear of any rumours of someone selling this size bin let me know please?

Cheers
 
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