The Combine Forum banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
407 Posts
New cylinder bars and a tight feeder beater slip clutch. You're pretty vague on what you're "clogging". For all I know you need to adjust/tighten your separator clutch so it can't slip. The belt to the cylinder drive might need to be tightened. Green stem beans need 600 RPM or more to drag thru the green stuff.....what cylinder pulley you have on it??? Remove the steel curtain above the raddle. Remove the fishbacks on the very rear of each straw walker if so equipped.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I had to stop machine and pull out green stems from behind the rasp bars. Took bean head off and cleaned out behind feeder beater. It's clear now but I don't think it can handle the stems. My beans are real tall with thick stems. I also had a big hydraulic leak coming from the hydraulic control hose where it inserts into the main clutch shaft on left hand side of combine if your sitting in it. A seal is bad. The main clutch shaft is in the center of the drive sheave that runs the traction belt. Would this effect the machines ability to chew up the stems? Not much of a mechanic guys. Any info would be great.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
I had to stop machine and pull out green stems from behind the rasp bars. Took bean head off and cleaned out behind feeder beater. It's clear now but I don't think it can handle the stems. My beans are real tall with thick stems. I also had a big hydraulic leak coming from the hydraulic control hose where it inserts into the main clutch shaft on left hand side of combine if your sitting in it. A seal is bad. The main clutch shaft is in the center of the drive sheave that runs the traction belt. Would this effect the machines ability to chew up the stems? Not much of a mechanic guys. Any info would be great.
The header drive sheave should be slowed all the way down and you should disconnect the hydraulic hose. The oil would definately cause your header and feeder to slip. The seals are no trouble to replace, but you don't need it connected in beans.

The first year I had mine, beans were a nightmare. I put the Trimpe bars and a St' John's Concave in it and that solved alot of problems. Green stemmed beans, even with some crabgrass in them, is no problem for it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So I can disconnect the hydraulic hose for beans? Why does it need it for corn? How hard is it to change the cylinder bars? Are the cylinder bars right behind the feeder beater if you are facing the combine and looking from the ground up ? Or is that the concave? I can see bars that have slits in them behind the feeder beater. I attached an image of the part that is leaking hydraulic fluid. I want to make sure I can disconnect it for beans.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Sorry, I was thinking about the sheave that drives the header. That doesn't appear to be the same thing. I'm not familiar with the F2. What does it drive? Why is it variable? Do you know about agcopartsbook.com? Get a seal kit and fix the leak.

Yes, the bars behind the feeder beater are the rasp bars. They should have good square edges on the leading edge. If not, they can be flipped, but I suspect you need new ones. They're no problem at all to replace. The concave is right below the cylinder/rasp bars. The L3 has two concave bars that can be replaced very easily and are cheap. Replacing the entire concave is a bigger job.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
66 Posts
That's the variable speed pulley for the transmission, you need that hose. Wouldn't affect feeding of course.

Good rasp bars and concaves are important, you can also run the cylinder faster and little more open than suggested in the book to help with feeding, just make sure you aren't damaging the beans and are getting them all off the plant.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
407 Posts
Replacing cylinder bars isn't difficult, just takes some time. Let feeder house all the way down with header removed and remove the top cover of the throat and start removing bolts. If bolt heads are worn so badly a six-point socket won't grab them, you'll have to use a cutting torch. In that case, wet down the area with a garden hose first and keep it handy. Install each new bar just like the old one was with the "V" up or down. Replace in pairs opposite each other for proper balance. New bars will come in pairs for balance to each other.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
it kinda sounds like you also need to speed up the beater behind the cylinder. there are several bigger sprocket that you can put on the end of the cylinder that will drive the beater faster. I don't believe that it wont eat green beans, because mine would eat them just fine. I also had the ausherman cylinder bar in it too.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top