My 2188 had those installed when i bought it. The augers are actually different because they have machining for the bearing to set on and a bolt machined into the end. The cheapest fix would probably be to buy a used auger out of any 80 series. To change that you take the wood block of, then you climb on your chaffer and drive the role pin out from behind the pinion gear on that auger, it may help you to loosen the clamp behind the adjacent drive gear on shaft that drives the auger bed. Then you can slide the drive gear out of the way and get alittle more slack to work on driving that pin out. Then you rotate the auger out the front where the wood block was. Put the new one in in reverse order and adjust the gear lash by sliding the drive pinion back in place and tighting the clamp back down. Put the wood block back in and your done. Like i say i don't think that the bearing kit fits on the regular augers, unless its a different bearing kit then what is on my combine. Also while you have the auger out you might as well change the bearing.
As cainfarmer said. When the pipe on the end of the auger wears out, replace it with a solid end. Blocks last longer and so does the solid end. All you do is cut the worn end off level with the flight, tap the machined solid end in and weld it up.
i had problems with the wood blocks splitting before wearing out, you dont have to replace the augers just put some on , the cast round flange with the 3 bolt holes need the be cut off b/c it will hit the tabs for the clean out (on 21 series or later ) just drive the spindle part in the end of the auger(comes with a short piece of pipe to keep from damaging threads) ,just be sure to take a file to clean the inside very good , after installing be sure to check rear bearing and gear. then install bearing flange assy. the bearing is replaceable it has a snap ring that holds in the flange. the 3 bolts for the flange are way to long even though they have threads all the way down just get some shorter makes it look better. mine were easy to do b/c my feeder house was off, pm me for any questions
My local machine shop makes a stub that can be welded in after the worn potion of the shaft is cut off the auger. I just did all four augers on my 2366. They will last longer too. He charges $16.50 for each stub. If you are intersted I can give you his contact information.
I would not use the bearings personally. There is too much dirt and water that ends up at the front of the auger bed. Especially if it is left out in rain.
I did some digging today at work, and found install instructions on ASIST, they show mounting them on the wood blocks, but I don't see a reason not to be able to remove the blocks and install them in place of the blocks. But thanks for all the help!
i honestly dont know what the lash should be but you can wiggle the auger back and forth slightly when it is set ok. if there is no wiggle at all its to tight if it feels sloppy its to loose. Hows that for a farmer answer. My bearings are installed over the wood blocks, which makes it tricky to tighten enough to keep the nuts from coming loose and not over tighten the lash.
Book spec is .060-.230 when measured at the outside diameter of the grain bed auger
flighting. I've found that after quite a few hours, you end up with a lot of "lash" that isn't necessarilly the gears, but the gear to hex clearance on the auger itself. Farminflyboy, the kits come with regular 3/8 flat washers to install between the bearings and the blocks to allow you to tighten it clear up without affecting the lash.