[dpilot83]

I bought a 2012 Gleaner S67 with 553 separator hours.

I'm primarily concerned with getting ready for wheat harvest. I'm in NW KS so it's hard red winter wheat. I'm planning on using a Shelbourne Reynolds stripper header. Are there any things I should check in terms of rotor configuration or concaves?

When I was looking it over I didn't know enough to look for a half link in either of the feederhouse chains. I did look at the drive sprockets on both of them and they didn't seem like they had hardly any hook to them.

All of the augers looked good to me although the auger in the bottom of the grain tank didn't seem as thick as any of the other augers.

There was no oil from the two speed rotor gearbox that I could feel.

The elevator chains were about in the middle of their adjustment range.

There were a few belts that looked like they could stand to be replaced.

The rotor seemed to be able to adjust the full range of it's operating speed in high range (didn't try low range). I can't remember for sure but it seems like it went from something like 550RPM to 900 RPM.

The belts for the variable speed shieves didn't seem to be chewed up on either the feederhouse or the rotor. I hope that means the shieves are OK.

I know I'm forgetting a bunch of stuff that I looked at but that's all I can think of for now.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

[shmiffy]

Concaves will need to come up more than there is adjustment for. shim the front and Cut bolt holes out on front of concave and notch out the top. Make bigger blanks. A 1/4 inch thicker than stock wear bar on the stone trap if u have rocks and short/lodged crop

 

[lostcause]

I would get in a big hurry about doing any major modifications the factory set up has worked well for me (but I do soft winter wheat) I would check chopper knives and accelerator lugs would consider putting some filler bars in other than that I'd check for lose bolts, grease it and give it a try.

 

[gleaner-r76]

A 500 hr. machine should have most of the kinks out but I would make sure all oil levels are up to snuff.Make sure concave is level and have concave filler plates handy if yo have hard threshing wheat. Take reverse bars out and replace with forward bars and add sweeps to rotor and you will be ready to go. If you need more power you can put a Steinbauer chip on and it will cut with any class 8 machine made. Happy harvesting!

 

[Snipe]

They work well with a stripper head right from factory if your bars and concaves are good. Take a look at your feeder chain sprockets to see if there tight.

 

[Snipe]

Concaves will need to come up more than there is adjustment for. shim the front and Cut bolt holes out on front of concave and notch out the top. Make bigger blanks. A 1/4 inch thicker than stock wear bar on the stone trap if u have rocks and short/lodged crop

Is there any negative effects to adding that thicker bar? I hear that moving rear feeder shaft forward a bit also helps with rocks in the S models.

 

[flatfoot]

dpilot83- how hard is your hard red winter wheat to thresh and is Lang Diesel recommending narrow spaced concaves be used with your stripper header??
Apparently Gleaner offered the narrow spaced concaves mainly for threshing issues they were having when stripper headers were used.

 

[Gary L]

I do winter wheat with mine stock from factory with concave filler plates. It does a great job.

 

[shmiffy]

i grow canary seed too and the stock set up will not thrash it with stripper header. I thought i had too many white caps in wheat with stock set up. I wish they steep pitch helical bars like the previous series.

 

[silverrod]

I would be concerned about the oil level in the rotor box. This is a problem area. If you have read earlier posts there has been lots of comments on this issue

 

[dpilot83]

dpilot83- how hard is your hard red winter wheat to thresh and is Lang Diesel recommending narrow spaced concaves be used with your stripper header??
Apparently Gleaner offered the narrow spaced concaves mainly for threshing issues they were having when stripper headers were used.

Hard red winter wheat in our area is not difficult to thresh unless it's not totally dry. If you get down to 15% moisture, it's usually pretty easy.

Most years the first couple of loads are a bit higher than that and our harvest crew with S670's and stripper headers will be struggling with white caps a bit. A few hours or days later and everything is working good.

I have not talked with Lang about any configurations yet. Just trying to do research so I'm not totally ignorant when I talk to them.

Thanks.

 

[dpilot83]

Concaves will need to come up more than there is adjustment for. shim the front and Cut bolt holes out on front of concave and notch out the top. Make bigger blanks. A 1/4 inch thicker than stock wear bar on the stone trap if u have rocks and short/lodged crop

We have no rocks.

The concaves need to come up more due to be stripper header or just in general?

I'm new to this, what are bigger blanks?

Thanks.

 

[dpilot83]

I would get in a big hurry about doing any major modifications the factory set up has worked well for me (but I do soft winter wheat) I would check chopper knives and accelerator lugs would consider putting some filler bars in other than that I'd check for lose bolts, grease it and give it a try.

Is there any particular place loose bolts are more likely? There are a lot of bolts to put a wrench on with a combine.

Thanks.

 

[dpilot83]

I do winter wheat with mine stock from factory with concave filler plates. It does a great job.

Thanks, that's good to hear. You would experience similar conditions to me I would think.

 

[dpilot83]

A 500 hr. machine should have most of the kinks out but I would make sure all oil levels are up to snuff.Make sure concave is level and have concave filler plates handy if yo have hard threshing wheat. Take reverse bars out and replace with forward bars and add sweeps to rotor and you will be ready to go. If you need more power you can put a Steinbauer chip on and it will cut with any class 8 machine made. Happy harvesting!

I am very new to combines. I imagine the manual will explain leveling the concaves. I understand filler plates. I don't know anything about reverse vs forward bars. Will the manual explain this? Same with sweeps.

I don't have the machine here yet but when it gets here I'll study up on this stuff. Thanks.

 

[dpilot83]

I would get in a big hurry about doing any major modifications the factory set up has worked well for me (but I do soft winter wheat) I would check chopper knives and accelerator lugs would consider putting some filler bars in other than that I'd check for lose bolts, grease it and give it a try.

Personally I'm not terribly excited about the chopper on any combine. In our dry environment I would like residue to be left in as large of chunks as possible causing it to decay as slowly as possible so that I have ground cover as long as possible. I know nothing about choppers though and perhaps there is some reason you must run a chopper.

If not, is it possible to disable or remove it. Would I be crazy to do so? Any other thoughts on this?

Also, I know nothing of accelerator lugs. Where are these and what are they for and what can go wrong with them?

I know I'm exposing my ignorance but there is no other way to learn.

 

[khigerd]

Personally I'm not terribly excited about the chopper on any combine. In our dry environment I would like residue to be left in as large of chunks as possible causing it to decay as slowly as possible so that I have ground cover as long as possible. I know nothing about choppers though and perhaps there is some reason you must run a chopper.

If not, is it possible to disable or remove it. Would I be crazy to do so? Any other thoughts on this?

Also, I know nothing of accelerator lugs. Where are these and what are they for and what can go wrong with them?

I know I'm exposing my ignorance but there is no other way to learn.

Do you know if your machine has a chopper? You can also get them with impellers instead of a chopper.

Just as soon as you can, get the operators manual and spend some time with it. You'll understand the combine much better and what everything is called and where it is located. If we all tried to answer your general questions, the posts would be as long as the manual. Once you've read it, and if you still have questions, then it will be easier for you to understand what we are talking about.

How far are you from Colby?

 

[dpilot83]

Do you know if your machine has a chopper? You can also get them with impellers instead of a chopper.

Just as soon as you can, get the operators manual and spend some time with it. You'll understand the combine much better and what everything is called and where it is located. If we all tried to answer your general questions, the posts would be as long as the manual. Once you've read it, and if you still have questions, then it will be easier for you to understand what we are talking about.

How far are you from Colby?

Yes, I don't want anyone to waste their time answering questions if the answers are in the manual. I'm looking forward to studying the manual after the machine shows up.

The machine has the updated chopper in it (small drum). It was just installed this winter.

I'm in Colby right now for a few minutes but I live 25 min N.

 

[gleaner-r76]

I am very new to combines. I imagine the manual will explain leveling the concaves. I understand filler plates. I don't know anything about reverse vs forward bars. Will the manual explain this? Same with sweeps.

I don't have the machine here yet but when it gets here I'll study up on this stuff. Thanks.

The manual will explain how to level concave, very easy to do. With stripper header you might not need forward bars or sweeps, I have no experience with your set-up. With 40 ft. dynaflex, sweeps with no reverse bars work best, no, the manual say's nothing abought either, they want you to run stock, which might be good, just not in my condition. A stock Gleaner is good, a modified one is great.

 

[lostcause]

dpilot83 I take my stationary knifes out and that lets things out with out grinding it so fine. check the knifes to see that they square and sharp you can turn them around a sharp knife takes less power. as a far as lose bolts I'd just look it over good but check the slats on the feed chain a lose bolt would indicate a bent slat finding something like this will save a broken feed chain. the accelerator rolls are located under the rotor the lugs are replaceable with the hours on your machine they are probably okay but are easy to change if they are worn.