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Well here we go replacing the failed bearings in the packer cleaner pivot. This was the first area Bourgault updated to bearings instead of dry bushings. At this time Bourgault installed 2 bearings in this pivot with nothing between them. Over time we found that the bearings either slide to one side or they both slide into the middle of the housing. This allowed the seals to get wiped out easily being so far from the bearings. They filled with dirt and went out quickly.

This current update includes a plastic spacer between the bearings. I am removing all cleaner/packer assemblies and installing this update. Pins are all coming out extremely hard. Bearings are all together either in the middle or off to one side.
So how many hours have you spent fixing your drill. It must be like a helicopter with 30 hours of maintenance for every hour of run time.
 

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The 2015 70’ 3720 that I drive has yet to have any needle bearings replaced in either the packer pivots or any of the parallel linkage. Those bearings are all still fine at 40,000 acres. Catman’s experience will be different because it is an older unit that began life with brass bushings that in the case of that particular drill, wore out and began moving inside the castings.

We have changed a dozen or more disc bearings though, simply because they didn’t understand the volume of grease it takes to actually fill the disc bearing hub. We grease those and the entire drill again at the midpoint of planting with a hydraulic greaser with about a 100’ hose.

(2015 was the first year of standard production using torrington / needle bearings)
 

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The 2015 70’ 3720 that I drive has yet to have any needle bearings replaced in either the packer pivots or any of the parallel linkage. Those bearings are all still fine at 40,000 acres. Catman’s experience will be different because it is an older unit that began life with brass bushings that in the case of that particular drill, wore out and began moving inside the castings.

We have changed a dozen or more disc bearings though, simply because they didn’t understand the volume of grease it takes to actually fill the disc bearing hub. We grease those and the entire drill again at the midpoint of planting with a hydraulic greaser with about a 100’ hose.

(2015 was the first year of standard production using torrington / needle bearings)
Although I still hate our 3720 (2015 as well) I have to agree with this statement. No needle bearings only probably 20 hub bearings have needed replacing.
 

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Although I still hate our 3720 (2015 as well) I have to agree with this statement. No needle bearings only probably 20 hub bearings have needed replacing.
Why do you hate it? Just curious as BG is making drills with on frame tanks for the hills of the PNW and I was considering one of them to replace our Cross Slot in a couple years.
 

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Discussion Starter #485
The 2015 70’ 3720 that I drive has yet to have any needle bearings replaced in either the packer pivots or any of the parallel linkage. Those bearings are all still fine at 40,000 acres. Catman’s experience will be different because it is an older unit that began life with brass bushings that in the case of that particular drill, wore out and began moving inside the castings.

We have changed a dozen or more disc bearings though, simply because they didn’t understand the volume of grease it takes to actually fill the disc bearing hub. We grease those and the entire drill again at the midpoint of planting with a hydraulic greaser with about a 100’ hose.

(2015 was the first year of standard production using torrington / needle bearings)
That's good positive news to hear that you are not having trouble with pivot bearings. Do you know if your drill has the plastic spacer installed between two bearings or three bearings installed in the pivots?

My drill was born with lube free composit bushings not brass. I don't believe they ever made them with brass bushings, please correct me if I'm wrong on this. And my drill was updated to two bearings with no spacer. And the needle bearings themselves moved inside the housing to one side of the pivot allowing the seal on the opposite end to get wiped out and fill with dirt. So this is the third set of wear parts in the packer cleaner pivot. This time a plastic spacer is being installed to keep the bearing on the outside of the housing directly against the seal.
 

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I’m not sure if the bearings have a spacer between them or not inside this 2015 3720, we haven’t had a linkage apart yet in its four crops of use. We used a new 2014 60 foot 3710 for one crop while the 70’ foot HF 3720 was still being developed. By the propaganda at that time I assumed the dry composite bushings used in 2014 were an evolution of the 3710’s era. Perhaps brass bushings were never used in Bourgault’s paralink drills??? Someone else will need to clarify that. I thought the earlier designs used greasable brass bushings???

I’m sure things will straighten up when you get any of your bearings and seals that are moving to stay in the proper position.

We don’t usually have any cobbled field surfaces to plant on, so no doubt that helps with the longevity of the opener linkages also.
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Why do you hate it? Just curious as BG is making drills with on frame tanks for the hills of the PNW and I was considering one of them to replace our Cross Slot in a couple years.
My experience is based upon the drill itself and lack of a good dealer. The drill does a good job, but is a pain to work on and operate in my opinion. I was agonizing on how to fix my surging meters, my openers that would drop down on the road even when the safety lock was engaged, and my section control manifold that wouldn't stay in place. The first 2 issues have been "fixed" in the Bourgault world for 3 years, but I only heard about it last May even though I asked the dealer about it repeatedly. On the 3rd issue all I got from the rep was a "well, that shouldn't happen"... no help, no give a ****...

On to the drill. I think the seed opener works fine with the latest scraper update. It places the seed consistently at the bottom of the trench. I had issues with the old scraper, but it works a lot better now. I seed into a lot of tall residue like sunflowers, corn, stripper wheat and flax straw. What happens is that the long straw wears the grease zerks and loosens the hydraulic lines that attach to each openers cylinder which inturn makes a mess and requires the operator (me) to climb up and down the frame quite often. If you seed into residue that can jam or wrap around the opener Bourgault offers a shield that wraps around the front of the disc hub. The shield does its job, but it makes greasing, changing discs, and even adjusting the scraper position more challenging.

On to the MRB's. The Mid rows are attached to the frame and cannot follow the contours of the ground that well. Leveling the Frame is a matter of adjusting air pressure on the front tires on the toolbar. Once you get it dialed in it you can usually adjust all of the MRB's with the same depth shims, but to run 2" deep some MRBS have 2.5 inches of shims and some have .5 inches of shims. If you have any perfectionist or OCD bone in your body it will drive you insane. That first day you use them every year takes a few months off of your life. I have the closing tine instead of a guage/packer wheel. It does work better than I thought it would.

On to the tank. (7950). Most everybody loves the Bourgault cart and I can see why. There are a lot of good things about the cart... I really only have 2 issues. First, I have 8 primary lines for fert and 8 for seed. With my blockage monitor it can show a flow rate and compare tower to tower. Some towers are going to be up to 8-10 percent hot and some are going to be 8-10 percent light. There isn't a way to fine tune the air flow system like there is on some other brands. Does it really matter? I would say probably not a whole lot, but you can occasionally see some streaking if you pay attention. The other issue that I have which may be a tractor issue instead of cart, but the fan RPMs really change as the hydraulic oil warms up. As an example it could be 4200 RPM starting out but 4800 rpm when it warms up. For most people that may not matter, but I try to use as little air as possible so seed or fertilizer doesn't "bounce" out of the trench. If the operator isn't paying attention this is the difference between running smoothly and plugging a few runs.

Because of all my little complaints I find it to be a highly stressful drill to run and it unrealistic to put any john smith in the tractor for a weekend to run this. However, the crops that come up behind this are usually really good. Hopefully that answers your question.
 

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The sectional control distributor would slip at its slotted mounting hole on top of the hitch and tilt itself forward on this 7950 cart as well. I just levelled it up and welded the two parts together inside the slotted holes beside those two bolts. You also need to be very cautious not to cut the replacement primary hoses too short in that area, it’s surprising how much slack it takes for turning or crossing drains and old roads.

Personally I don’t like minimal fan speeds. My concern is that the most pronounced sags in the primary hoses on the machine will stratify some seed and fertilizer in the bottom of the sag, this reduces the remaining airflow area inside the hose at that spot which causes a smaller amount of airflow and material to exit into that port back at the distributor, therefore causing the unaffected primaries to flow a greater than average amount of air, along with a greater than average amount of material.

If you are routinely plugging primaries this is likely occurring. If I was concerned about one or two fast flowing primaries I would put a muffler clamp on those two primaries and use it as a an air volume throttle. So far I haven’t seen the need for it.
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The sectional control distributor would slip at its slotted mounting hole on top of the hitch and tilt itself forward on this 7950 cart as well. I just levelled it up and welded the two parts together inside the slotted holes beside those two bolts. You also need to be very cautious not to cut the replacement primary hoses too short in that area, it’s surprising how much slack it takes for turning or crossing drains and old roads.

Personally I don’t like minimal fan speeds. My concern is that the most pronounced sags in the primary hoses on the machine will stratify some seed and fertilizer in the bottom of the sag, this reduces the remaining airflow area inside the hose at that spot which causes a smaller amount of airflow and material to exit into that port back at the distributor, therefore causing the unaffected primaries to flow a greater than average amount of air, along with a greater than average amount of material.

If you are routinely plugging primaries this is likely occurring. If I was concerned about one or two fast flowing primaries I would put a muffler clamp on those two primaries and use it as a an air volume throttle. So far I haven’t seen the need for it.
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I also welded mine in place. I hear you on minimal fan speeds. I've never plugged a primary. I just have a couple of seed runs that have a little dip so I can really see what my minimum RPMs are. With my flow rate system on my blockage monitor I compared different fan speeds to see if distribution was any different and couldn't see any difference unless I was at the minimum RPMS on the edge of plugging. Fan speed with the new scrapers isn't nearly as critical for performance as with the old ones.
 

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Bourgault should put this thread in their sales flyers!!!! lol
 

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I also welded mine in place. I hear you on minimal fan speeds. I've never plugged a primary. I just have a couple of seed runs that have a little dip so I can really see what my minimum RPMs are. With my flow rate system on my blockage monitor I compared different fan speeds to see if distribution was any different and couldn't see any difference unless I was at the minimum RPMS on the edge of plugging. Fan speed with the new scrapers isn't nearly as critical for performance as with the old ones.
What did you do about the sagging openers? Our 2015 is doing it but new one isn’t. Assume we have some leaking rams
 

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Anybody else lose cleaner/gauge wheels almost every single day? Terrible drill these things
Only lost one ever. Either the bolt wasn’t tight enough or it didn’t have one small outside diameter machine bushing between the inner bearing race and the alignment spacer washers causing the spacer washers to drag on the bearing hub of the wheel, or missing the split lock washer on the outside. Same applies to a John Deere. Don’t let a bucket of 5/8” NCT bolts defeat you in a war of wits.
 

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Only lost one ever. Either the bolt wasn’t tight enough or it didn’t have one small outside diameter machine bushing between the inner bearing race and the alignment spacer washers causing the spacer washers to drag on the bearing hub of the wheel, or missing the split lock washer on the outside. Same applies to a John Deere. Don’t let a bucket of 5/8” NCT bolts defeat you in a war of wits.
Brand new bolts, torqued and retorqued. Brand new bushings. That isn’t the issue. Loads of lock tight.
 

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Generally speaking if bolts are breaking they’re too tight, if they’re falling out they’re too loose, if they stay in place they’re just about right.
 

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What did you do about the sagging openers? Our 2015 is doing it but new one isn’t. Assume we have some leaking rams
The end rams on each seed row were replaced and that fixed it. 4 rams in total if I remember correctly. The end rams are a different part # then all the rest.
 

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The end rams on each seed row were replaced and that fixed it. 4 rams in total if I remember correctly. The end rams are a different part # then all the rest.
Thanks, I’m gonna look into that. Just to clarify, the end rams were originally all the same but they changed the end ones out for a different version?
 

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Thanks, I’m gonna look into that. Just to clarify, the end rams were originally all the same but they changed the end ones out for a different version?
I think the original end rams were also unique when compared to the rest of the drill, but internally they fail or let oil leak by which causes the problem. I probably can't answer your questions properly as I forgot just how it works, but the new end rams fixed the problem. I think it was a "bourgault" fix that I heard nothing about.
 
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