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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
On our 54 ft drill the depth control cylinders are creeping so badly that withing an hour of raising the drill fully it will be sitting on the ground again. Replaced seals in both mainframe cylinders. Tried raising it fully today and locking both depth control valves closed to see if that would isolate the problem to one side of the drill or the other but within an hour the entire drill was back on the ground.

Anybody experience this before? Its getting to be frustrating and expensive trying seal kits at over $300 per kit.
 

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I would guess Its probably not your cylinders on the drill, but in the tractor, when its lowering to the ground the rods on the cylinders are going into the cylinder, right? if so then its leaking throught the valve on the tractor, the oil from the cylinders has to be going somewhere, if not on the ground then though the tractor
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks but that's not it as I've disconnected the hoses from the tractor and the oil was not leaking out of the couplers but it still went down
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That was exactly my thoughts on doing seal kits but my father would rather fight with seals instead. Now the challenge is to figure out which cylinder.
 

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Sorry, I should have asked a few more questions first, in the past what I have done is have continuos flow set to lift on the drill, when the tractor and oil are cold, and use a digital thermometer to check for hot spots on the cylinders, they will all heat up but your leaking one will be a lot higher temp, its not super exact but ive found leaks this way before?
 

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On our 54 ft drill the depth control cylinders are creeping so badly that withing an hour of raising the drill fully it will be sitting on the ground again. Replaced seals in both mainframe cylinders. Tried raising it fully today and locking both depth control valves closed to see if that would isolate the problem to one side of the drill or the other but within an hour the entire drill was back on the ground.

Anybody experience this before? Its getting to be frustrating and expensive trying seal kits at over $300 per kit.
Yes, I am having the same type of problem on a 2008 5710 59' drill. It will settle to the ground just on the right side, in way less than an hour. When this settling happens the inner end of the outer wing on the left side raises the packer wheels slightly off the ground??!! I have tried a number of things to try to narrow down the problem. When you say you locked both depth control valves, are you meaning that you moved the heavy stoppers on the mainframe ram shafts? When I tried that the drill stayed up except for maybe 1/4" of creep down on the shaft of some rams for about 3 days. I did have the levers turned on my Pioneer couplers at the tractor.

How do these rams bypass to phase? Are there phasing ports at the fully extended position that lets the oil from the bottom end of the piston flow past the piston and on to the next ram? Or is it some type of a pilot valve through the piston?

Does your drill stay level from pass to pass if you phase at each headland?
Mine does seem to if you are not having to lift and lower for mud and wet conditions as we are in now. Sometimes I now have to lift up and phase and swing around mid pass. Let us know if you discover what the problem is. I will do the same. What is usually wrong with a ram/seal on these drills. Is it not worth repairing vs replacing in the off season? What does a new master ram cost?

Also perplexing is the fact that if one ram or check valve holds but the other one settles, does this mean that the rock shaft is twisting?
I thought Bourgault was supposed to be well built???
 

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On our 54 ft drill the depth control cylinders are creeping so badly that withing an hour of raising the drill fully it will be sitting on the ground again. Replaced seals in both mainframe cylinders. Tried raising it fully today and locking both depth control valves closed to see if that would isolate the problem to one side of the drill or the other but within an hour the entire drill was back on the ground.

Anybody experience this before? Its getting to be frustrating and expensive trying seal kits at over $300 per kit.
Did you try unhooking or isolating your hoses to the tractor with a shutoff valve? Also you should have a line lock on the front of your drill where your pressure line T's to the 2 master cylinders. This should also stop any oil escaping from the lift rams. This line lock has a couple of other functions on bigger drills??? If you are sure you are not losing oil back to tractor, it must be bypassing the master cylinder piston seals. Could you have a tiny scratch in the barrels that you can't see? Both at the same time??
BG said you must have both master cylinders lock up at exactly the same time or you will have oil leaking around everywhere in the system. Are those depth locks holding?
I have mine narrowed down to the left side master ram that must be leaking by the piston seal to allow the mainframe to drop 5/8" in 10 minutes. When the piston rod gets pushed in, the oil has to go somewhere. It takes the easiest route, which is out the rod end port to the #2 and #1 slave rams which then raise by the amount of oil that is displaced by the piston rod pushing into the ram. Just my theory. I got a seal kit Friday and have some time to try a reseal. If we can't find anything wrong or if it looks too bad inside, I will just replace the ram.
 

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You have a bad cylinder. Don't waste money on seal kits, just replace the cylinder entirely. Seal kits are 50/50 at best.
If you replace the ram because it has pits and then a seal kit then the cylinder is basically new if you ask me. It seems like all farmers have issues because of the price of new cylinders. New cylinders should only be $200, not $800
 

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If you replace the ram because it has pits and then a seal kit then the cylinder is basically new if you ask me. It seems like all farmers have issues because of the price of new cylinders. New cylinders should only be $200, not $800
Forever 27 did you mean I could replace the barrel part only and then put in a new seal kit?

Has anyone found a different source of cylinders in the $200-300 range?
They would have to match up exactly in all dimensions since it is part of a system.
 
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