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Being a dry time at seeding my canola is in various stages. It emerged mostly ok but I seem to have 20 percent of the plants that are two weeks behind. It l233p so I’m wonder how long can I leave it to swath without the majority being too dry to swath. I’d like to at least be able to not have excessive green seeds. How long can I expect it to stand before Mother Nature takes over and the pod shatter gene gives way to the elements.
 

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Why did you grow pod shatter if u plan too swath? Regardless U don’t got nothing to worry about ..

Let it stand - burn it down When it’s all ready, use some Heat , lotsa water , .. than chop it with a straight cut, like shhit through a goose

You’ll be doing it all like that next year ..
 

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I don't think the P shatter gene will give way to the elements. We had some L140 last year get snowed on twice and flattened and there was barely any pods shattering.
Our farm has some really stagy canola too, but its all getting straight cut. I would recommend you find a straight cut header and just be patient and let it all ripen.
 

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Wait as long as necessary. If you don't want to drop $20 in your field and make tracks get a combine that can handle green straw or you can still swath and leave it a few days to pull the green out of the straw. It's a very versatile crop with the pod-shatter gene. :smile:
 

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we’ll swman has a good point .. defiantly can save a few bucks if u can push it through , giver,

my last 2 cents... last year I could stall a s680 with 35 feet of Fd1... that’s if I pushed her past where she wanted to be... that was a heavy crop, burnt down about 2 weeks ... surprising straight cutting canola can take some power... complete opposite of a swath..

You’ll find a lot less green MOG in your sample - if u spray , if it’s going into a bin, might wanna think about that one...

Fwiw- i will desiccate it all ... to me, it goes hand in hand with straight cutting ...
 

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Being a dry time at seeding my canola is in various stages. It emerged mostly ok but I seem to have 20 percent of the plants that are two weeks behind. It l233p so I’m wonder how long can I leave it to swath without the majority being too dry to swath. I’d like to at least be able to not have excessive green seeds. How long can I expect it to stand before Mother Nature takes over and the pod shatter gene gives way to the elements.
Just desiccate it and straight cut it. Did the same last year. Had 233p with basically a drought for 4-5 weeks during flowering and pod fill. The lighter ground of the field shut down and then started regrowing when the rains came in early August. Did not want to desiccate but had no choice. I suppose swathing very late would achieve the same result.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I’ll probably swath it because my wife will be on the combine. A lot easier for her to pick up a swath that me to unplug the combine. Father used to run a second combine but due to his progressing age (90) I don’t think he’ll be making much dust this year. So the less possible problem way is wat will happen. Never makes for a fun day unplugging a combine
 

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Lots of guys be combing canola in Nov from the fields I see around me
 

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Why did you grow pod shatter if u plan too swath? Regardless U don’t got nothing to worry about ..

Let it stand - burn it down When it’s all ready, use some Heat , lotsa water , .. than chop it with a straight cut, like shhit through a goose

You’ll be doing it all like that next year ..
Keldifornia,

You have any good tips on using heat and glphosate to desicate canola? I have tried it 3 years in a row and been very, very disappointed with it. Tried 10, 12 and 15 gallons of water and it did not seem to make any difference. Morning spraying seemed to be slightly better, evening spraying was like 2 or 3 days slower to dry down. Seems to take 2 weeks for it to work for me, which is probably only 4 days sooner than doing nothing at all. Reglone usually takes only 5-7 days, but has no perennial weed control.

Does the crop have to be slightly greener to get heat to work? Perhaps I am spraying it when it is too mature? Just seems like the straw stays green for me. Most if not all of the leaves on the canola have fallen off when I desicate it with heat. Probably 90%+ seed color change.

Anyone have any good tips? Right now straight glphosate is the same speed as heat and glphosate in desicating my canola. I was using heat at the recommended label rate for desicating liberty canola, cant remember what that was for sure, but think it was 40 acres a container for liberty canola when combined with glphosate and 30 acres a contained if used alone.
 

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I used heat + transorb for first 2 years before straight cutting liberty canola. I was told 2 weeks, it would be dry, nope, 3 weeks first year.
Two years ago was hot and smoky around here and it was like the heat & transorb had very little effect. I ended up plugging my rear beater twice that fall straight cutting, with green straw being the culprit.
Last fall, just transorb no heat, and there was no difference in the 3 week waiting period. I too used 15 gal water to penetrate the canopy. I like straight cutting my canola, don’t see that changing. I just can’t see selling my swather either and I don’t think I will buy any more heat.
 

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Keldifornia,

You have any good tips on using heat and glphosate to desicate canola? I have tried it 3 years in a row and been very, very disappointed with it. Tried 10, 12 and 15 gallons of water and it did not seem to make any difference. Morning spraying seemed to be slightly better, evening spraying was like 2 or 3 days slower to dry down. Seems to take 2 weeks for it to work for me, which is probably only 4 days sooner than doing nothing at all. Reglone usually takes only 5-7 days, but has no perennial weed control.

Does the crop have to be slightly greener to get heat to work? Perhaps I am spraying it when it is too mature? Just seems like the straw stays green for me. Most if not all of the leaves on the canola have fallen off when I desicate it with heat. Probably 90%+ seed color change.

Anyone have any good tips? Right now straight glphosate is the same speed as heat and glphosate in desicating my canola. I was using heat at the recommended label rate for desicating liberty canola, cant remember what that was for sure, but think it was 40 acres a container for liberty canola when combined with glphosate and 30 acres a contained if used alone.
I have never actually sprayed glyposate on canola but I think the crop staging was supposed to be 30% seed color change. I always thought it was too green to be killing it at that stage and let it stand and eventually straight cut it. I am confident that most years the seeds were bigger and there was a yield advantage to letting it stand to full maturity. The long green straw was a tough chew a couple years and it gets very late to harvest but other than that I was happy with that system. My guess is if it was 90%+ seed color change when you sprayed it was probably too ripe to take in the chemical.
 

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Heat and glyphosate worked pretty well for us last time we used it. We sprayed it at 20 gallons, and I'm not sure you should go much lower than that. It's not fast. 2-3 weeks. It's certainly not faster than swathing. But the field was super clean the next spring! We're unlikely to straight cut any canola anytime soon, or if we do, it won't be all of the canola. I've got too many other crops that need to be harvested at the same time I'd have to harvest the canola if we let it stand. Swathing brings it on quicker and makes the timing work out better for us.
 

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Heat and glyphosate worked pretty well for us last time we used it. We sprayed it at 20 gallons, and I'm not sure you should go much lower than that. It's not fast. 2-3 weeks. It's certainly not faster than swathing. But the field was super clean the next spring! We're unlikely to straight cut any canola anytime soon, or if we do, it won't be all of the canola. I've got too many other crops that need to be harvested at the same time I'd have to harvest the canola if we let it stand. Swathing brings it on quicker and makes the timing work out better for us.
What crop stage are you spraying at?
 

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The last two years I sprayed roundup. It was just as fast to come in VS not spraying but the fields are clean the following year. I was thinking to use Reglone this year to bring it in faster to seed a winter crop.
 

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You wont shell by letting it stand and swathing it. 100% of our canola is pod shatter. We have very rolling land, the hills normally burn off where the low areas are still very green. We let the canola stand until the low areas are 75-80% seed color change, so the hills are all 100% color change. Last year I swathed on a day it was 30 degrees outside, never shelled hardly at all. You'll be fine.
 

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I forgot to say we had a wind from **** last year. I was pulling my hair out thinking it was shelling. Best canola crop I ever harvested!!!
 

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Throw out the rule book when swathing "P" canola, no problem swathing it at 100% seed color change. By this I mean the seeds are black and fully mature, the straw will be dead ripe on top everywhere. This may necessitate a cross auger on the swather but it will be money well spent. If the stem is green and seeds not fully mature it is still making yield and the minute it gets swathed that is over. Can't be in a hurry anymore, it won't fall apart like other canola used to.
 

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Lotsa water- 10+ imp. Gal. , spray the same time u would traditionally swath , can be a little on the green side , won’t hurt anything near as much as swathing on the green side...

I found being too late makes a mess on the tridekons, where as if your slightly early there is minimal shelling as your dividers tear through the canopy - rather than shell it to shhit when it’s dead ripe ...
 
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