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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Canola wasn't ready to swath a couple weeks ago. Now the stuff is pretty brown all the way through with very few green pods left. I feel it is probably too late to swath it and by the time the 7 inches of rain dries enough to go into the field I am afraid it will definitely be too late. I am flirting very hard with straight combining it for the first time. When does one know it is time to try it. Stems are green but pods are brown and break open fairly easy on a cold damp day like today. Just wandering if there are any guidelines you all go by as I did not spray the canola to kill it, it just went from green to brown very quickly with weather that didn't cooperate. Thanks for any help!
 

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The trouble with leaving canola to mature standing is that it's tough to know when the right time is, but you'll definitely know when it gets left too long!!

As long as it thrashes, and it's under 11% I'd probably go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes Christian, unfortunately it is an 1859 20ft straight head. I have a set of lifters I am going to put on it as the wind bent the canola over about a month ago. The field is not the best so I guess I am up for a bit of experimenting as it looks like I am not going to make much money if any off of the canola. Price keeps dropping and water keeps rising. If I swath it I am stuck using the 400 Versatile. Not sure if that is much better? What troubles did you have with the 1800 series head? Thanks!
 

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I would hire a 35 foot draper header

You'll pay for the custom charge with how much you ll lose with a 20 feet table

Lots of the shelling happens @ divider boards

If you have canola laying over - swathing it migh be best
Straight cut works really good when crop is standing
 

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We do both, but without a draper header you'll lose a lot.

Straight cutting canola is no different then doing any other crop. there is no mystery, no special challenges, in fact its one of the easiest. Like any other crop, if you sc it tough, dry it.

You can sc canola at any moisture.

Cut high and go twice as fast as a swath.

If there are green weeds in it (esp cleavers in liberty) watch it close and be realistic on moisture content.

Oil content is much higher in sc canola, lower that moisture content accordingly.

every week you leave canola stand, you get about 5 bu an acre - diff between oil and meal weight.

Puzzles may greatly to see guys cutting canola at silage stage. Meal doesn't pay the bills.
 

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1st choice- allow to mature naturally
2nd choice- use glyphosate if the crop is uneven or weedy
3rd choice- use reglone to desicate, but I would sooner swath, as reglone makes the plant very brittle and the pods are prone to falling off if it gets breezy enough.
 

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Personally - I cut my canola- if I have a 50 bushel stand, I cut it - if I have a 30 bushel stand - I cut it

When I have a train wreck - like plants a foot tall and 2 feet between them- I burn the canola down with a tank mix of RUP after its mature or close too- than I get out the straight cut,
There's not enough material to hold a swath, and not enough stem to anchor too- so I find straight cuttin shines in a **** crop -
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Kurt: Are you serious about leaving it stand for another 4 weeks? I drove across it last night to chase some cows and you can see the color change from broken open pods exactly where I drove. Not trying to be a smart guy just curious if you really believe it will take that long to be ready. PS I live in central ND slightly north of a small town called Tuttle. Anyone see the price of canola coming back. I don't have room to store all my wheat and all my canola. Big question is which one to sell now and which one to save. Thanks!
 

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Sorry…. the mobile thing is driving me batty so i didn't answer.


The 1859 auger is too small and the table isn't deep enough we find. the reel thrashes the **** out of the canola before it can even make it to the center of the table… and when it does make it it wraps.

You may have better luck.

How far away are you from St Gregor / Humboldt?


We do have a 36' draper on a 8570 which would work way better for you ;)

As far as ripeness… if you have heat you can go from 60% to ripe in about a week. Last year we had some can terra that was dead ripe… and didn't have the header yet so swathed & combined it. You'd be amazed at how much larger the canola is if you let it mature.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Christian,
Probably too far from Humbolt. Not sure exactly where it is even. We live about 120 miles southeast of Minot ND. If you're offering I could line up a trucker to come up and pick up the 8570 and bring it down to try it out.:D Depending on how things go you might not get it back though. We just had about 7" of rain in the last 2 weeks and the temps. seem to refuse to break 75 degrees F. so hopefully September will get warmer so I can do the small amount of acres I have and hope for better luck next year. Take care.
 

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not sure if your still deciding but you said l140p which is supposed to be a straight cut variety, given you spent the extra money for the seed, I tried some to I would either hit it with glyphosate or leave it, otherwise not really any sense paying the extra money for the seed in the first place.
 

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750GUY hope you don't mind me throwing question in your thread. I got some L130 on land that was recently broke and dealing with roots. I never thought of it when seeding it whether straight combining a option. Is L130 ok for straight combining? the land is slightly rolling so if I just leave it I afraid low areas stay green and higher areas get too ripe. I hate the thought of going into it with high clearance sprayer because it is thick heavy crop. Is arial application option or cost prohibitive? June 9th we spread canola seed and fertilizer and heavy harrowed it in and after wet summer it looks fantastic but still green. Two concerns I have: leave it standing and September frost might get it or swath early as I can and combine pick up roots?? Any advice appreciated.
 

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i have straight cut l130 and had no problems with it. That being said even if it is a thick crop I think you are better off with going in with the glyphosate, because those low spots can take a lot longer, also had a neighbor due the aerial thing and for what ever reason the low spots did not come in properly.

Swathing is quicker for getting in to combine but if concerned about the roots go ahead and spray it.
 

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i have straight cut l130 and had no problems with it. That being said even if it is a thick crop I think you are better off with going in with the glyphosate, because those low spots can take a lot longer, also had a neighbor due the aerial thing and for what ever reason the low spots did not come in properly.

Swathing is quicker for getting in to combine but if concerned about the roots go ahead and spray it.
x2 Had a 1/4 of L130 last year that we left and it harvested really well. Had some pretty decent wind go through 2 days before we got to it and the losses were negligible. I wouldn't hesitate to ground spray it, or let it mature naturally. I wouldn't expect great performance from air applied glyphos
 
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