[tylerfarms]

Case 8010 dual rims cracking between stud holes, mainly inside rim on either side, any other operators having problems. What have you done to overcome problem.

 

[blackfalcon]

Machinery Link is having the same problem with the JD's. A local machine shop here is cutting out the center and replacing it with a heavier ring. I believe the new one's they are putting in are 3/4 inch thick. If you do this make sure you have a competent welder do the repair. You don't want a bad weld in this area.

 

[deersniper]

We had the problem on a 2388 with singles at about 4500 hours. We bought rings that match the bolt pattern and inner wheel diamater and welded them right on top of the wheel. We bolted the rings on the wheels and took them to a professional welder. Held up great.

Just an opinion, but I would not cut part of the wheel out. Seems like a good way to have a bad day. Welding the ring over it doubles the strength around the lugs.

We raised heck with case and they gave us a free wheel. You would probaly have better luck since your machine is newer.

-dan

 

[cowgirlchaser]

We had a problem like this with a 2188. All the 2188's with 38" duals hopper extensions, and big heads were cracking rims and breaking lug bolts. CaseIH even redesigned the lug bolts, and had the rims made stronger. They replaced 2 sets of our 38" rims(8 rims) out of warranty, and I don't know how many lug bolts. I finally convinced them to go to 42" rims, and it stopped. No more problems. The biggest thing is to make sure the combine sets level. That way it evenly distributes the weight. I have had no problems out of our 8010 though. I will be checking more often now though. A couple of questions for you.....

What year 8010?
What size headers?
What size duals?
Does the machine set level?

 

[SupremeWelding]

We're selling 1/2" thick rings to bolt on the outer surface of each rim to prevent cracking around the bolt pattern. We have replaced the centers with 1" thick centers on one machine that was all broken out already. The 1/2" thick rings seem to be preventing the problem though, as the 1" thick spacer bushings that Case uses are still creating localized stress points instead of fully distributing the load across the mating surface. We have them priced at $200.00 for a set of 4 rings. These rings work with your stock lug bolts as well. Supreme Welding Inc. Home

 

[scott]

Was paint cleaned off rims and torque to specs and checked regularly per manual? Scott.

 

[torriem]

On the other thread is a picture of a nice cracked rim from a John Deere S680. I clicked on it to get an enlarged version of the picture and it sent me to the photobuck page hosting the photo. And on that page I saw this, which I thought was appropriate for the topic and the season.

 

[schaaftr]

CNH is now recommending that the wheel bolts be torqued to 1000 ft/lbs. We have been sanding the rims clean and torqueing the bolts to 600 for years but still having localized problems with broken bolts and rims. Have noticed some of the rims show signs of movement even though the bolts were tight so we are now torqueing to 1000 and will see what happens in the future. Thinking that with the bolts at 600, during high stress times it causes the rims to move slightly which then can break the bolts and possibly the rim. Time will tell!!!

 

[Don Boles]

I think it's pretty critical that the rims get torqued to the proper spec, and then they have to be checked periodically. I sometimes wonder how often that really happens, especially when some owners don't have the tools required to achieve the very high torque required. We checked out 8120 this summer after running a few hundred acres....and they had loosed up! Since we pull duals every week (or other week) on wheat harvest we see that indeed, they can loosed up. I wonder how many of these cracked rims are directly due to not following the torque guidelines. With the weights of these machines now (especially Deere) its more important than ever. Also makes you wonder if sometimes the rims truly get mounted flush to one another from the get go.....a few millimeters off probably is pretty tough on the hardware, and some fail.

Is the wheel removal for transport reasons fj?

If so and add two threads currently running on wheel problems gives me an even greater appreciation for tracks.

 

[kylebarrington]

What are you using for torquing fj? I've got a torque multiplier