We, and others in our area have had problems with the wobble boxes coming loose. Make sure to keep a close eye on the bolts.
Case / IH 4000 Swather
We are looking to purchase a Case IH 4000 swather to use for harvest next year (fall 2009). Any help would be appreciated.
What are the good / bad things about this model?
What improvements were done during production? Is any year and newer better to get?
What are some areas to check in a used machine?
What are the good / bad things about this model?
What improvements were done during production? Is any year and newer better to get?
What are some areas to check in a used machine?
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Running a 5000 here, have had now 2 seasons. The biggest biggest problem that I have run into is the linkage for the hydro and steering is getting wear in it. Most of the play is in the back yoke that pushes the linkage forward and back. Also the bushings on the cross shaft are sloppy. And the trunnion shaft going into the rear hydro pump has some play in it. I plan on going through it this winter and see how much slack I can remove. What I experience is as you speed up it steers left and as you slow down it steers right. Can be quite interesting at times. There is enough play that reverse is about gone too. If you adjust for reverse then forward lacks. With this much play it makes it interesting to try and adjust so it will stay in neutral and lock the steering so you don't go around in circles. This machine is used for hay only 12 foot double auger header. Had some problems with auger on left of header but previous owner had run a fence post into it. Can not blame that on the machine. Most of the 5000 machines that I have looked at the floor of the cab is rusted out. Not sure if it is because they have a cab on them or not. I would like to find the dual speed hydro motors to install in this machine as I have some steep hills to operate on and think it might help out some. Also the books says road speed would be a little faster too. Over all for the age of them I think they are still a good machine.
There is a smaller sprocket to put in the wheels for hills. When buying a 4000 buy one sn 4500 and up, the hydro is different and much better, as the steering linkgage. Check for play on the worm shaft between the hydro for steering. Had 3 of these, great machines.
I am currently looking at 2 different machines.
1st is a 5000 (diesel motor) before the change up in the hydro-1978.
2nd machine is newer-1986, but gas 4000. Hydro is newer style.
Both machines are in great shape, both headers are actually same age (older 5000 has newer header on it) - price is the same.
Any comments?
1st is a 5000 (diesel motor) before the change up in the hydro-1978.
2nd machine is newer-1986, but gas 4000. Hydro is newer style.
Both machines are in great shape, both headers are actually same age (older 5000 has newer header on it) - price is the same.
Any comments?
I have 1988, 4000,with a amc gas engine. my father bought it brand new with a 25 " header and in 1994 we put a pickup reel on it. The next year we put a cab from a Massey combine on it, cant recall the model but it was from the early 70''s. It fit on the 4000 so good it was like it was made for it, plus it came with a/c. been a good swather but the steering linked is getting wore (seems I'm not the only one lol) it can get interesting with the slowing down turn right, seed up turning left issu, funny to watch my hired man last year get a hang of it. Had the wobble box fall of as well so had a local welder build a much larger bracket to bolt it to. IMO it has been a great swather for the last 21 years
Well finally got into the hydro unit on the 5000. It seems to be the pump that is closer to the engine that is at fault. The pin going into the swash plate had egged out the hole in the swash plate. Spiral pins were broke on that side too. Had a machine shop rebush the plate on that side. Putting in new bearings and seals in that pump, replacing the worn external linkage and will know next summer if that cures the problems or not. Have a feeling it will. Both engines should be reliable. I would suspect the diesel will run on less fuel per hour. The wobble box mounting plates have been rebuilt on this header too. 12 foot dual auger header. Over all have been happy with the machine since owning it. If rebuilding the hydro takes care of the steering it should be a reliable machine for many years.
Thank you for the info everyone!
Once it warms up in the spring, we will be going to look at each machine closely to compare what kind of play there is in the steering / hydro.
To us the biggest question still remains, is the newer style speed control / steering that much of an improvement that it outweighs the pros of a economical 5000?
Once it warms up in the spring, we will be going to look at each machine closely to compare what kind of play there is in the steering / hydro.
To us the biggest question still remains, is the newer style speed control / steering that much of an improvement that it outweighs the pros of a economical 5000?
problems with the speed control
Hello guys, im having problems with the speed control on my 4000 swather. It wont go forward even if i push the lever all the way to the front and it would only go backward but very slowly and the lever gets really hard. any ideas?
Hello guys, im having problems with the speed control on my 4000 swather. It wont go forward even if i push the lever all the way to the front and it would only go backward but very slowly and the lever gets really hard. any ideas?
Is it moving the linkage down at the hydro's? How does it steer when you turn the wheel. As I mentioned in post 7 above most of my issues were internal. The pin was loose in the swash plate and the spiral pins where broken also. So you maybe moving external linkage and not moving anything inside the pump. Its been a few years since I fixed mine (2009) but the repair has held up quite well. It still steers straight when you make speed adjustments. If I remember correctly I came out the front of the machine with the pump assemblies. I recall fitting a piece of plywood in there so I could slide them on it. It was not that big a deal to tear into you just want to keep every thing very clean, hydro's do not like dirt.
I'm having trouble with a dual auger header, the material keeps winding aound the small augers...any ideas?
They do tend to do that. Make sure there are no nicks or gouges on the flights that can catch material. Make sure you have the correct screws in the augers. Hex bolts give the material something to grab on. If the auger tubes have been welded on and many have been make sure to grind the weld smooth. Not sure why IHC did not put a slip clutch in the drive line on those headers. It sure would have helped to prevent damage when those augers wrap as it can happen very quickly.
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
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