depending if your going to change the veins on the cone or not and what sereis yours is you might have to find or use old fastners or bore out the old wholes I bought a really exspensive remer after breaking a couple of good bits and the cone metal was harder than hard to drill through the wholes remed out very easly I had the roter out and the cone out so it was really easy for the most part I think the veins on the main part had the bigger holes for the new bigger fastners... have fun
Personally .....I would leave working on the "veins" to a good vascular
If you want to work on the vanes, then you might consider pulling off the feeder house & then pulling the rotor:
.......especially if you are close to cone time.....check the right side
of the cone for wear ( left side of the frame in this snap)
....got away with murder on this one, thanks to a little help from some hard surfacing. Years ago we would have pulled the cone &
had it chromed....now the recommendation is to run it to destruction, then replace with........
.....a few less bruised knuckles and blue words hurled about the
If the only vanes that need to be done are the cone vanes, then it's possible to do it with the rotor still in the machine but a real pain. If you have a good system of pulling the rotor, I would definitely do that then you can inspect the cone vanes, the cone itself, and the rest of the transition vanes. We have a plasma cutter that you can set up to gouge the heads off the vane bolts off with and it only takes about 5 minutes to have the heads all gouged off and the vanes popped out. Sure beats using a wrench!
clean the machine up really well and have a water hose close just in case and use a torch to cut the nuts and bolt out if you don't want to go through all of the work removing the rotor and feeder. I have done it that way and it works good and fast.
thanks all for the input.
those are quite the pictures there, 98j. vanes d'oh.
tech- that sounds like the way to do it. how do you keep the bolts from falling out of the vanes when putting in the new ones? i hope i wont have to pull out the rotor although i noticed that the seal on the rotor drive gear box is leaking. small puddle on the chopper pan of what looks like gear oil.
I use a pencil magnet and put through the hole to help the bolt through, but if that seal is leaking then you will have to pull the rotor, or fill i up with synthetic oil. it costs alot more but it will get you by.
'Steep' got tired of patching on the cone, and he was getting scared
of the rotor cage, so......we went for the whole enchilada in '06...
pulled the rotor, cone & cage. Looks pretty bare with all the guts
We could have run the cage a season or two more, but the cone had
to go, so 'Steep' talked the boss into springing for the whole 9 yards.
Shouldn't have to back inside for a long time.
If you do end up pulling the rotor Dan, take a good look at the feeder
chain & spks......way easier to swap out the sprockets with the feeder
house on the deck. A snap of a simple stand set up. 'Steep' talks
about building a classier version with wheels so we can scoot the
feeder house around.
Quote: Quote:98J, take a look at the Kile Mfg elephant ears. Have a custom cutter friend up in Garfield WA that used them last year and loves them. I'm getting a new set in March.
Yo Wamag!! We have been using Dyco's......and 'Steep' adds a little
art work with the wire feed for good measure. A snap from back in
How many inches of "Global Warming" do you have on the ground
Your son-in-laws old 2388 had a lot of "art work" like that on his too. We had 6 inches two weeks ago but that was gone in a couple of days and I've been gone to LV last week.
I'm pulling the rotor next winter for a major over haul. vains, rasp bars concaves, elephant ears, and maybe the cone. Will use Dyco's rasp bars. But that Kile impellers cant be beat. They say its better then the AFX because it acts like an aircraft wing sucking wheat into the rotor?